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#1
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haven't had a tank in 9 years. want exbert opinions, please help!
i had a community marine tank about 9 years ago (during my college years). it wasn't spectular but i enjoyed it. i had to break it down and sell off what i had due to moving and starting a career. now that i have a little more money and time i want to start again. there is so much new stuff that wasn't available to me before and i want opinions from experienced ppl. Here is a list of what i am purchasing this weekend (my goal will be a reef tank in 2 years, i just want to start with a few community fish like tangs and other more hearty fish to start ) this is
1. 46 gallon tank with stand 2. 1 50/50 bulb 3. Aquarium Systems SeaClone Protein Skimmer 4. Fluval 305 Canister Filter 5. Marineland Stealth 200 Visi-Therm Submersible Aquarium Heater 6. Saltwater Master Liquid Test Kit and Hydrometer 7. instant ocean and about 3 inches sand 8. a net and a vac for the sand remember i have nothing and want to do this right. also i want to hear what ppl think about buting some precycled sand. in the past i would bring a 5 gallon bucket and ask for some water from a local store. that store no longer exsists. and would the big chains do the same? thanks |
#2
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I would get about 50 or so pounds or Live Rock and Aragonite sugar grain sand about 90lbs for a 46 bow should be about 3inchs deep, Than about 20lbs live sand from LFS to seed. The rest of the stuff sounds good but the lights will have to be upgraded for most corals.
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29gal FOWLR 20gal sump-fuge & 2.5gal nano-ROWLR |
#3
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Also you will want to get a better skimmer. Like a (coral life 125)
http://www.esuweb.com/advanced.asp?E...=super+skimmer And a RO/DI unit will help a bunch. |
#4
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The new(ish) thing for filtration is live rock. No, it doesnt get up and wald around lol. Its live because its got all the bacteria on it that filters your tank. This is known as biological filtration. (if you dont know, bio-filtration is the breaking down of amonia...starts as amonia, goes to nitrite, and then nitrite is broken to nitrates). To accomplish bio-filtration from live rock, you'll need 1-2 lbs of rock per gallon of water...so in your case 46 as a minimum..more is ALWAYS better. Quote:
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Hydrometers...they're not very good in my opinion...they're off a lot sometimes. Refractometers are a little more expensive (i've seen them for like 50 or so...i'm sure there's cheaper ones, but i dont know how good they are) But they're always accurate and they're pretty quick too. Quote:
For sand...just go with plain aragonite sand. DONT get that "Arag-alive" crap. Its really not as good as people make it out to be, and in fact it can actually make some amonia spikes in your tank (which if its not new, thats bad) Quote:
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TAKE...LUCK!!! |
#5
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oh, and i forgot...WELCOME TO REEFCENTRAL!!!
oh, and for fish REFERENCES look at liveaquaria.com and look under fish>marine...then look for ones you like. Only i say just for references because the quick facts stuff they have on their charts arent always accurate (and as far as i see...they usually arent, specially on bigger fish like tangs)
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TAKE...LUCK!!! |
#6
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Dang, srry i keep forgetting stuff.
Like mecco said, you'll need a skimmer. I'm currently running a coralife superskimmer on my 40 gallon tank which has about 6 gallons in a sump (tank underneith) so total its about 46-50...so far so good. But i'd rather get the Aqua C Remora. I've got that on my 55 and its much better imo. And LAST (hopefully) dont use tap water. Only use RO water, because tap water will very often have nitrates and phosphates right out of the faucet...RO water is like 25 cents a gallon at any water store (and walmarts) or you could get yourself an RO/DI unit, which will be more cost efficient in the longrun.
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TAKE...LUCK!!! |
#7
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With the live rock you really don't need the fluval. As well you really don't need to touch the gravel in a SW tank. If you don't overfeed and maintain good husbandry your sand will stay clean.
In my opinion the "live sand" is really a marketing gimmick to sell sand at a higher price. Any sand will become "live" in short order from the live rock. Save your money. I would take back the test kit you bought. It junk in my opinion. I would buy Salifert test kits. Accurate and easy to use. Generally you can't find them in stores but you can online at say Marine Depot. There are other places online that sell them as well. Additionally, I would buy a refractometer. It's much more accurate than hydrometer. I will give you a link at the end of the thread for the refractometer. To save you some hassle and headache if you can afford it and have the place to store water buy a good RO/DI system and use it exclusively for your water. If you use tap water you could have a lot of algae problems. http://www.refracts.com/Economydetails.htm http://www.airwaterice.com/c=Dco1sl7...ct/1TYPHOONIII This thread will be a big help as well. http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...hreadid=239848 Regards, Pat
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90 AGA Megaflow (Setup 1-24-06) 120 Lbs. Liverock EuroReef RS 100 Skimmer 2 X 150 MH 2 X 96 watt PC Actinic 2 Clarki Clowns (27 months old) 1 Niger Trigger (Owned 2 months) 2 Tunze 6055 PH |
#8
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(if you dont know, bio-filtration is the breaking down of amonia...starts as amonia, goes to nitrite, and then nitrite is broken to nitrates). "
YIKES!...so what happens to the Nitrates?
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A wasted weekend is not a weekend wasted! |
#9
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They build up in your tank and create uncontrollable aglae blooms! |
#10
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yep. Though nitrates arent toxic to fish, so in fish only systems you dont gotta worry bout em too much. Altho i think i read that they are toxic but only at like some rediculously high number (like 400 or something? lol i cant imagine them being so high tho)
This is one reason to do water changes (other reasons would include replacing trace elements and whatnot). And thats also what chaeto and other macro (or is it micro? idk lol) is for. They take up nitrates so they dont build up really high.
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TAKE...LUCK!!! |
#11
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wow if only i new about the magic of forums the first time around.... and thanks sir_dudeguy for the breakdown of my list that will help alot!
i did know of live rock and if it's nitrate killing ability, and i know that when i do eventually add some the tank chemestry will go nuts again. i also thought that the protien skimmer should help make the addition of the live rock less of a shock to the system. p.s. if anyone Knows a great pet store in rhode island please let me know... and again thanks everyone. i'm gonna go and check out all these ideas.
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90 AGA RR, 75 fuge/sump PFO 2-250se MH 2-110 vho SPG: 1.026 PH: 8.35 'trates: undetectable phosphate: 0 ALK: 11.6DKH calcium: 435ish 12/21/07 |
#12
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personally i like the finer look of the sand and am leaning in that direction. |
#13
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[welcome]
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Im having so much fun. |
#14
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Live sand works for tanks with plastic castles and fake coral. You need to get the bacteria started from somewhere. When you get live rock, there's gobs of bacteria on it and in it. It's redundant and an expensive way to get more bacteria than you need.
I bought a fluval, and it's currently waiting to be cleaned out and put into storage. Don't need it... don't really want it. What it will evenetually be used for is: 1) fresh water tank, 2) Hospital or QT, or 3) circulation in something. It's not needed when liverock is one of the best balances between aerobic and anaerobic enviornments for bacteria we've yet found. You can run carbon with it to clean up your water... but you can run carbon in just about any high flow area. Edit: You have so many good issues! Don't use store grunge to start your tank unless you have a truely exceptional store. Store tanks are notorious for picking up all sorts of nasty diseases and parasites. Think of a store tank as a public restroom. Find a nice healthy tank that has been established for well over a year in your area and trade for some of that sand. That's good grunge. Also: Consider building a sump before you get started... it's a big plus to a tank and not too expensive to do. You get all your equipment out of view, the added stability of a larger volume of water, a place to grow critters that don't like to be around fish (but fish love to be around), a steady pH rather than one that goes up and down in night and day, a cosistant level in your tank... no evaporation showing.... all sorts of stuff. The down side is maintainance, but you seem like the type that would kind of like the hands on approach. Also Also: Live rock is a must these days. It's what all of our advice is based on. Plan on getting 50-60 pounds of live rock at about $5 a pound or so right when you start your tank. Last edited by Shagsbeard; 09/23/2006 at 08:04 AM. |
#15
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i have beenreading articles on sumps and overflow tanks all morning. i think this is the way i want to go. but i am unsure of how exactly this will provide filtration. what sort of bio bed should be in the overflow tank? or will all that come from live rock and a deep sand bed in the tank? i am sure i will find the answers in thses articles. also if anyone can think of some older post that would help me more please post a link. i would be greatful
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#16
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TAKE...LUCK!!! |
#17
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i have just been to a store and spent about an hour with a guy. i have decided to build my own sump tank. and i have now seen many different examples. here is a drawing of what i am planing...if i can figure out how to post it!!!
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/showp...p?photo=185855 |
#18
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Before you start buying a bunch of stuff, I suggest you read Natural Reef Aquariums by Tullock
http://www.amazon.com/gp/explorer/18...99096-0143101? Before I got back in the hobby, I had been out for several years. The beginning of the book does a great job of explaining all the older ways of doing things and how the hobby has evolved. It filled in a lot of gaps for me. With that base, and running all your setup ideas by the folks on RC, you should be in pretty good shape. Another big help for you would be to join your local reef club. You'll get great advice and guidance. As you know, this can be an expensive hobby. It's easy to blow $25 or more per gallon setting everything up. That said, you don't want to waste your money on stuff you don't need. Best of luck, Roy |
#19
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yeah i know this won't be cheap
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#20
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bought the tank today
i bought my tank today. its a 46 gallon bow front. since i decided to use a sump i dropped it off to get drilled. i also sterted building my sump which is running a grand total of about 45 dollars (rather than 200-300 price on the megaflow prebuilt). i will post a few pics if anyone is interested when it is done.
i have a few questions after reading the post by waterkeeper (which is increadibily helpful). and talking to guys at the local aquarium stores of course everyone says the exacy opposite of the previous one. 1. has anyone used the Southdown play sand (recommened by waterkeeper)? 2. i have been told exactly the opposite by 2 people, sand bed of 4 inches or is that too much? 3. i was also told that live rock should rest on the bottom glass as if it rests on the sand it will create dead spots in the LSB because the rock "steals nutrients"??? thanks again for all the help!!! |
#21
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southdown is fine to use, tho i've never used it. in fact, they've stopped seling it here in arizona so i cant use it, but it is a good alternative i hear.
2...so one person has said that a 4 inch sandbed is good and another said its bad? It just depends on what you want from it. Like if you're getting something like garden eals (something i dont suggest...just an example) then they need the deep sand. and then there's also the benefits from having a deep live sand bed (tho i dont know what they are). IMO, just go w/how much sand you want. Thats never been a problem w/me. And for the record, you GENERALLY dont wanna go by what the lfs says. Im not saying they're wrong always, because sure they're right a lot...but they are more in it for the business and they dont care what happesn to you as long as they're getting your money. Some places will feed you crap stories about how certain stuff works just so they can sell you more stuff. I've never heard that about the rock either tho. I have heard that you want it resting on the bottom so that if you get something that burrows it doesnt shift it too much and make a rock slide. Because if we were worried about creating dead spots in the sand do to having rock sit on it...wouldnt we be worrie about creating dead spots on the ROCK if we put it all the way to the bottom and have sand covering that few inches of rock thats under the sand? IDK...just doesnt make sense to me. I'm not saying that either is bad, but just make sure you get it to where its not gonna shift, which usually means just having it rest on the bottom, unless you dont get a burrower, then i wouldnt worry bout it...just make it sturdy, you know? srry for all the rambling
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TAKE...LUCK!!! |
#22
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yeah good call on the rock, i think for now with the sand maybe an inch or 2 will do the trick. i am still a week or so from actually adding water anyway.
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#23
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ya just make sure you rinse your sand out first. That will take away the cloudiness a bit
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TAKE...LUCK!!! |
#24
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i have never gone with sand before i always used crushed coral that was tiny pebble sized. i have been kind of following waterkeepers plan, but adding the water before the substrate seems a little "crazy" for me whaddya think?
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90 AGA RR, 75 fuge/sump PFO 2-250se MH 2-110 vho SPG: 1.026 PH: 8.35 'trates: undetectable phosphate: 0 ALK: 11.6DKH calcium: 435ish 12/21/07 |
#25
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Before you start building a sump, you should check out this site
http://www.melevsreef.com/allmysumps.html It has various designs, as well as a how to section on building your own sumps. It's really a must read if you are planning on building your first sump Here's the sump i built with advice from this site |
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