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  #1  
Old 06/29/2000, 05:32 PM
Aeolius Aeolius is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Greensboro, NC
Posts: 71
I now have a 250g (240 if you go by the dimensions of 24x24x96) Oceanic tank, sitting here with nothing it it. I consider that a good problem to have.

I will be adding a sump & pump soon; setting the tank up as FO until I can afford the appropriate liverock & lighting.

So...knowing what you know of current trends and thinking...to light an 8' wide tank with the eventual purpose of evolving into a reef tank, how would you do it?

Traditional thinking says MH and add actinics. I have seen a few tanks lit only with power compacts, though. That would solve the heat problem, but add a bit of expense.

I'm open to suggestions.
  #2  
Old 06/29/2000, 06:19 PM
Larry M Larry M is offline
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Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Burnsville,MN In the heart of Reef Country!
Posts: 4,202
PC won't solve the heat problem, just spread it out more. On a tank that size PC's would cost you a fortune in upfront and replacement costs, IMO. I wouldn't think of putting anything but MH and VHO actinics on it.
Welcome to the board!!

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Larry M

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See my tanks at Northern Reef
  #3  
Old 06/29/2000, 06:59 PM
Frisco Frisco is offline
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Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 2,358
What are the lamps going to be enclosed in? Is it an in-wall tank with a dedicated equipment room? (hint hint) If mine... hmm... Maybe Four 400W 6500K MH + Four 160W VHO actinics, a ~3000 GPH return pump, Two or three ~30 gallon surgers, ~7 foot skimmer, ~300 gal sump, ~4 ft Ca reactor... or something similar... Sounds like a good problem to me too. welcome
  #4  
Old 06/30/2000, 01:33 AM
Grappler Grappler is offline
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Join Date: May 2000
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 53
I would personally start out with the actinics and THEN gradually add the halides, especially if you're cycling live rock in the tank. The halides will greatly increase the likelihood of a nuisance algae outbreak with the elevated nutrients from the cycling rock. Whopping light levels won't be needed until the tank is stocked with animals that demand them (hopefully not until the tank is set up and gone throught the "normal" algae cycles). Actinics are all that is needed for the critters you want to preserve on the rock, and it is my belief that your coralline algae will gain an advantage with a high actinic level (if that's what yer after.) Just my opinion, you know!
  #5  
Old 06/30/2000, 07:57 AM
coralhound coralhound is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Maryland
Posts: 899
on a tank that size you dont want PC lights.

as larry said the bulb replacements will kill you $$$$$$$.

I was a long standing PC enthusist. I am now converting, I will still have some PC tanks but the MH are a better value for bigger tanks. IMO anything larger than a 75 and its not worth it.

CH

------------------
Please BUY captive bred marine life...
My website: Moon Tide Reefs
  #6  
Old 06/30/2000, 08:21 AM
Agu Agu is offline
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Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Venice, Florida
Posts: 15,230
For starters, I'd recommend an Icecap 660 (or equivalent) powering two 4" vho actinics and two 4" no GE Daylight bulbs. The GE's are cheap at most hardware stores, and the actinics bring out the colors in your fish.This might be enough for a fo tank. If that isn't bright enough for your taste add a pair of 400w mh. If/when you decide to go reef all you'll need to do is add one or two more mh, and switch the ge's to actinic.

[This message has been edited by Agu (edited 06-30-2000).]
  #7  
Old 07/02/2000, 01:40 PM
Aeolius Aeolius is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Greensboro, NC
Posts: 71
I appreciate the replies.

I was out at Hamilton's site last night. They Recommend 1 MH per 2' of tank length and 250W for tanks of 24" height, such as mine. Thus, if I went with their metal hood option, I would end up with two 4' hoods, each one with 2 250W MH and 2 actinic VHOs. Add an extra fan and that comes to around $900 for 500W output. ($1,800 for two 4' hoods)

Does that sound in line with other pricing, or would I just be better off to build a wooden canopy and use a retrofit kit? (Frankly, putting 1,000 to 1,600 Watts of light in a wooden enclosure is not appealing to me.
  #8  
Old 07/02/2000, 02:03 PM
Agu Agu is offline
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Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Venice, Florida
Posts: 15,230
If you have the skills to build a hood, you can save some money and set it up the way you want. Hamilton doesn't use 400w mh as I recall, which is what you should use for a 24" deep reef. Check out some of the members sites for pics of DIY hoods. LarryM has an easy canopy that I built and suspended from the ceiling to allow more airflow. 1200 watts over 6' and heat hasn't been a problem yet. Agu
  #9  
Old 07/02/2000, 02:27 PM
OrionN OrionN is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Costal Texas
Posts: 4,659
I am setting up a 96X30X34 tank. I plan to use 4X400W 6500K MH and 2X400W 20000K MH. Don't have my light up and running yet but will finish setting up by this comming weekend. To solve the heat problem, I plan to use several fans on the tank and the sump. I will also vent the space to the outside. The whole tank and support is enclosed in a closed space. I keep my house at 78F. I don't expect any heat problem from the tank. From experience, I find that the heat from MH can be easy to take care of by appropriate placement of fans.

------------------
Minh Nguyen
Visit my reef at:
http://sites.netscape.net/austinnguyen/homepage
  #10  
Old 07/02/2000, 05:14 PM
jimmy n jimmy n is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Harker Heights, TX
Posts: 808
Minh,

Where did you shop when you lived in Seattle?

Saltwater city?

Jim
  #11  
Old 07/02/2000, 06:55 PM
OrionN OrionN is offline
Lazy reefer
 
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Costal Texas
Posts: 4,659
We are OT.
I got a few things from Saltwater City. Also got a few things from Aquarium Concept, Blue Siera. Most everything in my tank were MO from Jeff's Exotic Fish, Tropicorium and from Coralfarm.

------------------
Minh Nguyen
Visit my reef at:
http://sites.netscape.net/austinnguyen/homepage
 


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