temporary sump plumbing

[liquidlunch]

I need to alter the baffles of this sump in order to fit a larger skimmer. In the meantime, I plan to use a 10gal tank for 24-48hrs while the silicon dries. Would plumbing the return pump intake up and over as shown in this pic cause any problems?

[Mavrk]

I don't see an issue with that.

[LobsterOfJustice]

You will need to have a way to prime the pump. At the top of that upside-down U, you need to add a T with a ball valve. You can open the valve and fill the plumbing with water, then close the valve and turn the pump on.

[poppin_fresh]

I dont know if the pump will suck water up and over the side. You might have to prime it to get it started.

[liquidlunch]

Originally posted by LobsterOfJustice
You will need to have a way to prime the pump. At the top of that upside-down U, you need to add a T with a ball valve. You can open the valve and fill the plumbing with water, then close the valve and turn the pump on.

If I turned the pump on and shot a powerhead into the intake, would that work?

[poppin_fresh]

I dont think that would be a solid enough column of water to prime the pump, but you could try it. Running the pump dry is a bad thing, dont do it for very long.

[AquaReeferMan]

I doubt the powerhead will help prime it. Been there and it didnt work to well. LobsterOfJustice explained it perfectly, thats how it worked for me. Other than that it will be fine while the other sump is getting a makeover.

[Toddrtrex]

You are going to have to set up the pipes like this



The T with the cap on it is how you prime the pipes full of water. Now, I have always used a check valve (( you can sort of see it, on the right side of the pipes, at the water line )) to help hold the water in the pipes when you prime it. (( this is the only time I count on a check valve ))
Two of my three sumps are set up this way, works like a charm.

Edit --

Here is an older picture of the whole set up to give you an idea.

[AquaReeferMan]

Nice, pictures speak a 1,000 words.

[Toddrtrex]

Thanks,

And I think Lobsters idea/comment about using a ball valve is a better idea compared to a check valve -- wish I would have thought about that 4 years ago.

[LobsterOfJustice]

Yeah, the pump will hold the prime (even if unplugged) as long as the tee is closed (either with a ball valve as I said or some type of cap) and the intake is submerged.

[Toddrtrex]

Originally posted by LobsterOfJustice
Yeah, the pump will hold the prime (even if unplugged) as long as the tee is closed (either with a ball valve as I said or some type of cap) and the intake is submerged.

Exactly, I have had my pump off for over 4 hours on a couple of occasions and the prime held with out an issue.

[liquidlunch]

Originally posted by LobsterOfJustice
Yeah, the pump will hold the prime (even if unplugged) as long as the tee is closed (either with a ball valve as I said or some type of cap) and the intake is submerged.

Thanks for all the info/pix. I'm always looking for an excuse to get new stuff and I may just get a larger sump. I may get a 40long, drill it, baffle it and then do a quick swap w/ no downtime.

[LobsterOfJustice]

FWIW, Ive run my tank sumpless for days multiple times. Just move the heaters up to the display and keep your powerheads running. Replumbing this temporary solution might be more trouble than its worth.

[discocarp]

I've run a pump like this long term with no issues. I didn't do any weird plumbing, just shot a powerhead down the intake (you need to cup your hand over the outlet to make sure it fills). Never had it lose prime. Not once over a couple years.