Quarantine / Treated after the Swap

bgreenlee · #1 10/27/2007, 08:27 PM

So who actually quarantined or treated their corals after the swap?

I have stopped quarantining corals, but they all get interceptor and iodine. Just took the lot out of the interceptor, iodine dipped and hit the tank.

However, fish still get the full three weeks.

bgreenlee · #2 10/27/2007, 08:54 PM

I get a bad vibe from 14 views and no posts.

heartben · #3 10/27/2007, 08:57 PM

i dont think everyone can go out and get interceptor... but from what ive read most people probably didnt..

i didnt... im sure ill learn my lesson soon enough. i did get a couple "nice" bristle worms though.. lucky me

got one of them out and was tired of my hands in the tank so i let the other one go. meh.

bgreenlee · #4 10/27/2007, 09:01 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by heartben
i dont think everyone can go out and get interceptor... but from what ive read most people probably didnt..

i didnt... im sure ill learn my lesson soon enough. i did get a couple "nice" bristle worms though.. lucky me

got one of them out and was tired of my hands in the tank so i let the other one go. meh.

If you cant get it when you are ready for SPS let me know and I can get it for you. Same goes for everyone else, if you need a source I can point you in the right direction, or grab it for you.

Since you see excited about the hobby you should read up on dipping procedures for everything you are buying. It pays dividends in the end.

I agree, I never bothered till one day Clayton was at the house and said "I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but you have red bugs". Nothing goes in now without being treated now.

heartben · #5 10/27/2007, 09:05 PM

i do know red bugs when i see them... but i mean, i understand i should be more careful. what do you dip softies and lps in?

thanks

bgreenlee · #6 10/27/2007, 09:16 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by heartben
i do know red bugs when i see them... but i mean, i understand i should be more careful. what do you dip softies and lps in?

thanks

Someone elses tank. I have not added anything besides sps for a long time.

Stony lps can be dipped in iodine. Soft corals I really don't know, since I started dipping everything I have not added any to the tank.

Make sure to read as much as you can find on dipping corals before trying it, it can kill them if you over do it or do it wrong.

matt the fiddler · #7 10/27/2007, 09:28 PM

i am interceptoring all my frags and the chaeto right now.. don't care of pod die off

always QT as much as possible.

That said, i don't have a good iodine dip, or a good place to keep fish for a month in my apartment...

jtesdall · #8 10/27/2007, 09:38 PM

OK, I'll admit it. I didn't, I have iodine and I completely forgot. Just acclimated and put them on my rack. Hmmmmm, I guess I too will learn the hard way one day.

vvolfe1 · #9 10/27/2007, 11:03 PM

Ummmmm. I treated everything I got with a reef dip from sea chem, an iodine dip, and then flat worm exit. I also went through the zoos I got with an exacto knife looking for nasties. I watched around 2000 zoas disappear in a week before I saw the value in treating them. Right now the zoos I got are sitting in my little tank with the ghetto light.

einsteins · #10 10/27/2007, 11:08 PM

Interceptor here...

Just put them in the tank and most opened up right away...

eins

dascharisma · #11 10/28/2007, 05:55 AM

I cannot stress enough how important it is to quarantine. There are people in this club who did have or currently have pests. When I got monti nudis it was from a club member. I also know that red bugs were passed around the club a while back. For a lot of people who are only going to be in the hobby for a year or two, these pests aren't too big of a deal. If however, you are planning on growing little frags into big colonies, pests are your achilles heel.

For people who have the patience to turn a 2" frag into a big colony, you should have the patience to let a frag sit in a quarantine tank for a month before putting it into the display. Remember that it isn't just yourself you are protecting, but everyone you trade with. I know it is easy to look at someone's tank and say, "his tank looks fine, I will just trust that he is safe." To those of you who take the easy approach, good luck.

Brad

bgreenlee · #12 10/28/2007, 08:25 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by dascharisma
I cannot stress enough how important it is to quarantine. There are people in this club who did have or currently have pests. When I got monti nudis it was from a club member. I also know that red bugs were passed around the club a while back. For a lot of people who are only going to be in the hobby for a year or two, these pests aren't too big of a deal. If however, you are planning on growing little frags into big colonies, pests are your achilles heel.

For people who have the patience to turn a 2" frag into a big colony, you should have the patience to let a frag sit in a quarantine tank for a month before putting it into the display. Remember that it isn't just yourself you are protecting, but everyone you trade with. I know it is easy to look at someone's tank and say, "his tank looks fine, I will just trust that he is safe." To those of you who take the easy approach, good luck.

Brad

I agree completely with you Brad. Its all good till someone points out you have bugs, nudi's, etc.

Having fought red bugs and turned everything in my tank a pretty shade of brown with the treatment stress, I can't emphasize enough the importance of this critical step. Luckily when i treated I was in the middle of a move and had to have everything out of the tank for awhile anyway. For most people having to tear down a tank to treat properly is a real PITA.

RobynT · #13 10/28/2007, 10:14 AM

Good thread Billy! I guess I'm guilty of trusting and didn't treat either. Fortunately I've never had red bugs or nudi's and forget the dangers of introducing such things to one's tank.

So where do you get the Interceptor?

bgreenlee · #14 10/28/2007, 10:36 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by RobynT
Good thread Billy! I guess I'm guilty of trusting and didn't treat either. Fortunately I've never had red bugs or nudi's and forget the dangers of introducing such things to one's tank.

So where do you get the Interceptor?

There is a vet in Davenport right next to the pet store on north brady, just north of 53rd. Cant remember the name off hand, but when I went in and explained what I needed and why they sold me the interceptor.

I will find the name and pm it to you when I get back home.

RobynT · #15 10/28/2007, 10:45 AM

Thanks Billy. Once a while back I asked my vet's office here in town if they could sell me some and they pretty much thought I was nuts. I guess in the future I will dip just to be safe.

bgreenlee · #16 10/28/2007, 10:59 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by RobynT
Thanks Billy. Once a while back I asked my vet's office here in town if they could sell me some and they pretty much thought I was nuts. I guess in the future I will dip just to be safe.

I took in the procedure from Eric Borneman as well as his curriculum vitae that was on his website. They didn't have a problem at all with a little proof. If you have trouble let me know, I can grab it for you the next time I am around there.

musty baby · #17 10/29/2007, 10:05 AM

The only stuff I took home was already mine, barring some zoanthids I traded matt for. They got thrown in some lukewarm tap water for a couple ten minutes and opened very soon after going into my tank.

Philby · #18 10/29/2007, 04:02 PM

I'm going to be setting up a QT about the same time as I start to cycle my tank (so that hopefully I can start to put stuff in it right when the cycle is finished!) and I've got a few questions.

I've read plenty of stuff regarding QT setups for fish (heater, HOB "FW" filter with seeded sponge and carbon, PVC for the fish) but I'm wondering what kind of lighting you need for when QTing coral (SPS mostly) and also what you're looking for when QTing coral??

I have a 10g that used to have FW in it that I'm planning on using the HOB filter and heater I have - so if I need to get a stronger light I was wondering what some suggestions are (hopefully cheap!). Can I get by with just some CF bulbs or a "fuge" light that people get at Lowe's? or do I actually need to get a 70MH or something?

If I do need to get something like a MH - does anyone have anything laying around they're trying to get rid of that would work for me?

thanks!

Philby · #19 10/29/2007, 04:02 PM

Also I think this would be a great meeting topic for those that don't QT or are newbie's like myself!

bgreenlee · #20 10/31/2007, 09:39 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Philby
I'm going to be setting up a QT about the same time as I start to cycle my tank (so that hopefully I can start to put stuff in it right when the cycle is finished!) and I've got a few questions.

I've read plenty of stuff regarding QT setups for fish (heater, HOB "FW" filter with seeded sponge and carbon, PVC for the fish) but I'm wondering what kind of lighting you need for when QTing coral (SPS mostly) and also what you're looking for when QTing coral??

I have a 10g that used to have FW in it that I'm planning on using the HOB filter and heater I have - so if I need to get a stronger light I was wondering what some suggestions are (hopefully cheap!). Can I get by with just some CF bulbs or a "fuge" light that people get at Lowe's? or do I actually need to get a 70MH or something?

If I do need to get something like a MH - does anyone have anything laying around they're trying to get rid of that would work for me?

thanks!

I have QT'ed sps under pc compacts in the past as well as vho's. Now I tend to just dip them and move them on into my tanks.

I QT fish, generally with nothing other then a hob filter, or if I am home, daily water changes.

Atticus · #21 10/31/2007, 09:52 PM

Fish QT is easy and a good excuse to do a water change...

Fill QT tank with water from the display, throw in a heater, HOB filter, and a air stone. A glass mounted thermometer is nice also.

THis way you can put the fish straight into QT when you bring them home and you don't have to have a QT running all of the time.

If you find that your fish needs to be medicated, just shut off the HOB, crank up the air stone (most meds strip oxygen from water), and add meds.

Fish should remain in QT for a minimum of 4 weeks following the last sign of disease. Notice the SINCE LAST SIGN part...

I know it is hard, but man it is so much easier than tearing your display apart and still losing all of your prized fish. Then you get to leave the tank fallow for 6 weeks... Not a corner worth cutting in my experiance...

Once fish is done with the QT tank, dry it and store it.

keith1974 · #22 11/03/2007, 05:52 PM

i need a 48 inch compact light for cheap noting fancey just like a cheap 110 watt im new to this sight and dont have a lot of cash