New reef checklist

[In Deep Water]

Hi everyone. Now that I have my tank setup complete with LR and LS what are some essentials that Im going to need. Im looking to keep the reef as natural as possible, but from what I understand there are certain additives I must have? So, whats your check list for the new reefer?

[alexb518]

congrats on your new tank! the thing to know is that you don't have to add anything in your tank. What you will want to do is to replace what is depleated. I think the majority of people on here add ONLY calcium and alk. as a general rule, i would not add anything that I cannot test for. for example, I add the above two, strontium, iodine and magnesium. However, I would not recomend adding this stuff, especially strontium, b/c it's easily over dosed and can really have adverse results, namely toxifying your tank. so, long story short, add calcium and alk for now and only add what you can or are willing to test for.

[In Deep Water]

The LFS was trying to sale me something called tlc or prime. And some buffer by kent. Also, what are the essential tests and is API test good?

[drummereef]

I would suggest getting some good quality testkits. Salifert makes great ones. Get them all - ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, alkalinity, calcium, phosphate, and pH. I use a digital pH meter, which will give you a more accurate reading, but the Salifert will get you by.

As far as additives go... The only thing I dose is a 2-part suppliment for alkalinity and calcium. I use Randy's 2-part homeade recipe but there are other commercial products available, like ESV. Other than that nothing but 10% weekly water changes. Don't be fooled by marketing! Essential elements, coralline boosters, etc... all bogus. Keep your water chemistry steady and all will be good.

Here's some articles to read:
http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...hreadid=102605

[drummereef]

If you are using RO/DI water, which is highly recommended, there is no need for water conditioners. If you are using tap, then yes a water conditioner like Prime is needed for dechlorinization.

[In Deep Water]

Thanks...anyone else have personal preferences to new checklist?

[mwwhite]

Ditto the point about test kits and Randy's DIY Calcium, Alkalinity, and Magnesium supplements.

[WaterKeeper]

Here's the Lowdown on About Everything page.

[vallon]

Whoa, this thread saved me at least 50 bux. I also wish there is a simple checklist for newbies. I have read and am reading a whole lotta stuff, understanding some, but the majority is just plain confusion.

For myself, besides proper lighting, decent powehead (went with Tunze 6025), decent skimmer (went with Typhoon), some sponge for fish waste filter, I got for chemicals....

1. Salinity to be between 1.025-1.027
2. pH around 8.2
3. Alkaline
4. Calcium

2,3,4 can be adjusted using Randy's homemade stuff to save a bunch of cash.

5. Test kits for pH, Akl, and calcium.

[RocketEngineer]

First item on the check list for newbies: "The Conscientious Marine Aquarist" by Robert M. Fenner

Second item on the check list: another 5-10 books on keeping marine tanks

Third item on the check list: Reading all of the things one can find on keeping marine tanks

Fourth item on the check list: A membership to RC and asking a lot of questions.

Fifth item on the check list: More research

And after about six months of research and learning, then maybe people should be allowed to buy a tank and start putting the system together.

[RocketEngineer]

BTW, I'm only on step 5 of my checklist. Haven't gotten to the six months of research yet.

[WaterKeeper]

Hey, this ain't rocket science you know?

[RocketEngineer]

Hey, this ain't rocket science you know?

Since I don't do rocket science I wouldn't know.

[JMC1]

Being a new reefer, having satisfied RocketEngineer's checklist for preparation (actually, I read for about a year before I started), and having read just about every sticky/recommended post here on reef central, here are the things I have found to be the most important in setting up my reef aquarium:

1. REFRACTOMETER. Or, at least hook up with someone who has one so you can "calibrate" your swing arm or floating hydrometer. My swing arm was off by .003, and I am sure this is not atypical due to the nature of swing arm hydrometers.

2. Some dosing scheme for Ca and Alk. I have started with two part commercially available supplements (Kent CB). I have no corals yet, just a pile of live rock and sand, and the coraline and other calcerous hitchhikers are going to drive me poor. In my 30 gal cube, I have to dose about 35 ml or so of part A every 3 days to maintain Ca levels at 420. Seriously consider a home made two part solution or other scheme.

3. Protein Skimmer - Yes, I succumbed to the LFS blabber about the SeaChem 100, but with a few easy modfications and some PATIENCE, I do get a decent amount of dark skimmate every day with only curing live rock in my reef and a once weekly feeding of Marine Snow to make the emerging critters happy. Regardless of the type, make sure you are running it and getting skimmate every day. Your curing live rock should provide more than enough protein for a skimmer to pull something out every day.

4. Test Kits. Get the ones mentioned in previous posts. I did find, though, a "all at once" purchase of Salifert test kits to be out of my monthly reef budget. So, I started with Salifert Alk, NH3, and Ca since I personally think these analyses to be the most important in a new tank. I compromised, and bought either Hagan or AP test kits for other analyses (or already had them for my FW tank) since they are about half the price (or less). Is this the best option? Probably not, but as time goes by, replacing the cheaper test kits with the Salifert will be possible and eventually I will have all Salifert.

5. Get a digital pH meter when you can afford one, and don't forget the 4.0 and 10.01 buffers to standardize/calibrate the pH meter when required. I have tried all kinds of "liquid drop" test kits with my FW planted tank and none can compare to the reliability, repeatability, and accuracy of a digital pH meter. This is especially important if you decide to use a Ca reactor as CO2 will drive pH down, and CO2 off gassing will result in a less accurate pH reading when you use the drop-type test kits.

6. Some form of PO4 control. I use Fluval Lab Series resin for immediate/quick PO4 removal, and SeaChem PhosGuard for longer term, sustained removal. Both can go into your filter, and will help to eliminate PO4, which will help with algae control during your tank maturation.

7. Skip the water conditioners and go with RO/DI. In the end, the headaches you will avoid knowing your water is pure, needless to say the avoided costs of conditioners, buffers, and other stuff, is well worth the expense. To put it in other terms, ONE small coral can cost anywhere between $30 and $70 (or more). Why risk that specimin due to other impurities in your water (which prime will not remove) when a good RO/DI will run you about $150-$200. Heck, I even portrayed my RO/DI unit as a "healthful benefit for the entire family because of the pure drinking water" to my wife, so I didn't even even figure out it was a reef tank purchase until I did my first water change !

HTH. Just some things I considered while setting up my reef.

[In Deep Water]

Wow! You guys are great. Thanks for all the advice and tips. So Randys mixes are where its at huh. Im checking them out now. Doesnt look to hard.