RO water collection system

oicu2 · #1 02/19/2007, 09:24 AM

I remember seeing an article on an RO water collection system with good illustrated pictures but can't seem to find them. If anyone could please send me some pics with instructions on how to set up an ro unit where the water is collected into a 32 gallon can with float valve. I've looked on Drs foster and smith but there are not any good pics. Melev's site has great instructions but I am mechanically illiterate and need to see pictures. My husband set one up in my untility room and wants to share the RO with our refrigerator's icemaker. It looks like it is setup right but there isnt any water flowing to the can. He doesn't seem to understand what I am trying to achieve. Can someone help?

Katherine

SA057 · #2 02/19/2007, 03:26 PM

Mine run into two 20g containers. I am not sure just what you are looking for. I have a float valve that stops the water if I forget and leave it on. I fill both containers on an as needed basis. One holds salt and the other Kalk. Here are some photos.

All the timers and lights are just for my ATO and autowater change setup.

oicu2 · #3 02/19/2007, 05:43 PM

Looks great...neat and organized. But, I am needing pics of the RO unit and how it is hooked up as a whole. Maybe this will help.. here is the way my husband hooked up mine. Something is not right though. I can't seem to get much water to the container. I think he did something wrong. This same water is also used for my refrigerator icemaker and water.

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pleaselaunchme · #4 02/19/2007, 06:29 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by oicu2
Looks great...neat and organized. But, I am needing pics of the RO unit and how it is hooked up as a whole. Maybe this will help.. here is the way my husband hooked up mine. Something is not right though. I can't seem to get much water to the container. I think he did something wrong. This same water is also used for my refrigerator icemaker and water.

How do you mean that not much water is getting through? The RO product water will come out at just a trickle. If it is just slow, that's unfortunately the way it will be. I did a quick search on your unit, the only one I found had a 50 gallon per day membrane. If the incomming water is colder than ideal (I forget offhand what it is that they usually rate the membranes at, but I believe it is in the upper 70's), it will flow even slower. So, figuring 2 gallons an hour max, it'd take 16 or so hours to fill the container. I am assuming your fridge and icemaker are getting what they need though?

Ben

oicu2 · #5 02/19/2007, 08:03 PM

Pleaselaunchme,

So a trickle is normal? I was expecting at least an even flow. What if the trickle doesn't last long? My husband installed a dial on the float valve so that I can turn off the flow of water to allow it to build up, but when I open it back up after letting it build up overnight, I get maybe a half gallon of water. I guess I'm comparing it to my other RO/DI unit attached to my kitchen sink. I can get at least two and a half gallons of water every hour or so and it is the exact same unit. Maybe I just need to be patient.

A.T.T.R · #6 02/19/2007, 11:02 PM

well.
your trying to run a pressure line while one side of the tee is open
i see you have a pressure tank. and then a 50 gallon trash can.
the tank will always be empty.

what i would do is have a check valve BEFORE the pressure tnak adn have the pressure tank only go to teh fridge.
then when ever the bucket is full teh pressure tank will start ot fill

so you have
RO UNIT then a tee. one side goes to trash cans float. and the otehr goes to a check valve then to another tee . this tee hasone side go to the fridge and th otehr go to the pressure tank

understnad or want me to draw it out?

check vavles need to be the type for ro units. not airline check valves

RandyStacyE · #7 02/20/2007, 01:08 AM

If you have the RO unit connected to the bladder tank (it appears that you do), the RO unit will run through the tank and to whatever you have it connected to. The bladder tank will begin to fill and build up pressure. When the tank is full, the RO unit will shut off automatically (assuming that it connected properly and all other outlets are closed).

When you open the line, the tank will force out a gallon or 2 of water. This is the purpose of the bladder tank. It provides a good volume of water for a short time.

It's hard to tell from the picture, what is your bladder tank feeding? You would want to feed the ice maker from the output of the bladder tank.

SA057 · #8 02/20/2007, 09:12 AM

oicu2

I have mine connected almost like yours. It is hard to tell from your photos. I split mine off the "yellow" line that goes to the holding tank. I always leave mine turned off at the 20g container untill I need to fill it. My RO is simular to yours and I can get about 3 gal per hour. In about 4 hours I can get 17 or 18gal in my 20g container (including the two gal in the holding tank).

oicu2 · #9 02/20/2007, 10:15 AM

Here is a crude drawing of the way it is set up. Sorry it is so sloppy but I didn't have much time to make it neat. But, you get the idea.

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SA057 · #10 02/20/2007, 11:06 AM

From your sketch is appears that your system is plumbed OK. I don't know what the "four way connector" in the middle is doing? In your first post you said that the RO was running to the "icemaker and water"? What water? How many gallons do you get in how many hours. Like I said before it would take several hours to fill your holding tank.

A.T.T.R · #11 02/20/2007, 11:48 AM

no that setup wont work properly

ill draw a better way later

douggiestyle · #12 02/20/2007, 11:58 AM

remove the final filter. no sense in adding extra stuff from the carbon. after di the water is as pure as it will get. adding in that final carbon filter will only add things that the ro and di removed. now if it was for drinking then you want a final carbon filter to improve taste.

EDIT

so put the frig off the ro with a carbon filter between the ro and frig.

honestly unless your water is really bad i would not use ro for drinking. use only sediment and carbon. you will get the minerals and such. but that is only my personal prefference. some people need ro water to drink do to medical problems.

EDIT
should also add that di water is considered a hazardous substance (though its like the lowest on the scale). we had to msds with a warning lable on all di water sources due to fact that pathogens could be in the di water.

douggiestyle · #13 02/20/2007, 12:12 PM

well its not really considered hazardous. just not considered potable.

dont want to be misleading.

SA057 · #14 02/20/2007, 12:18 PM

If you don't have it here is a link to the install manual for your filter system. Page three has the pluming diagram.
Install Manual

douggiestyle · #15 02/20/2007, 12:42 PM

and as im thinking i should explain that even more. its not considered potable in a factory.

oicu2 · #16 02/20/2007, 12:58 PM

SAO57, The four way connector is an auto shut-off valve. This RO is being used for my aquarium collection water and it also is used to make ice and water for my fridge...you know, one of those deals where you can get water and ice from the door of the refrigerator. Thanks for finding an updated manual for me, the one that came with it is a little old. The one you sent is easier to understand.

douggie, our water plant gets its water from a well. (we live in a rural area) Therefore, I really feel all filters are needed. The TDS on my raw water is around 465. Ofcourse I am running a whole house filter as well. In addition, this unit is being used for drinking water as well.

ATTR, If you can find a better way to run this unit I would greatly appreciate it. Another thing I'm worried about is that the black hose for waste water is not connected. Should I be concerned about that or am I just overlooking something?

douggiestyle · #17 02/20/2007, 01:08 PM

consider that high tds does not mean that its bad for you. may only mean that it has a high calcium level. the only way to tell for sure in how you should filter your drinking water (for health and dollar savings) is to have the water tested for things like lead, arsenic, vocs and other unhealthy polutants.

but again its only a suggestion. as long as you keep the di water from becoming contaminated you are safe to drink it. you may want to add a check valve between the float valve and water line to prevent any back flow, only as a precaution.

douggiestyle · #18 02/20/2007, 01:14 PM

but, the use of a carbon filter between the di and fish tank is still a no no.

RandyStacyE · #19 02/20/2007, 01:16 PM

I see what the big problem is. You need the bladder tank to supply RO water presure/volume to the frige and the frige only.

If you will be making ice and drinking this water ... do not use DI water. Place a T before the DI canister. Doing this will ensure that you will be using RO water not RO/DI water. Run this line directly from the T to the frige. Now just before the frige, cut this line, install another T and connect a short line to the tank.

Now in order to ISOLATE thetank pressure from the entire system (before the tank) you need a check valve. If you do not use a check valve, all the tank pressure will go backwards through the system. You want the tank to supply pressure and volume to the frige ONLY.

douggiestyle · #20 02/20/2007, 01:53 PM

its possible that your bladder tank needs repressurized.

oicu2 · #21 02/20/2007, 03:33 PM

Douggie, thanks for the suggestion on the check valve. I'll do that. I'll also check the tank pressure to make sure it's where it needs to be.

Randy, I also agree that I need to use the DI only for the aquarium water not the fridge. I'll try the tee like you suggested.

Whew, so many different connections. It's a wonder the water doesn't get confused on where to go.

RandyStacyE · #22 02/20/2007, 03:46 PM

Looks like spaghetti!

douggiestyle · #23 02/20/2007, 04:35 PM

as i mentioned earlier the di is not necessary for the frig as is a carbon filter for the tank. here is a nice flow chart on how to configure everything.

A.T.T.R · #24 02/20/2007, 04:45 PM

ok here it is.

now i place the t before the final stage just so that you get it to filter the water when the water is needed in the fridge ( it will have been sitting for some time at this point)
dont worry about that tho.
this is how you want your system to look

get it ?
i reused your drawing to try and make it easy

A.T.T.R · #25 02/20/2007, 04:49 PM

dougii that isnt right btw

check valve needs to go where i placed it

and you will want the post filter because if the water is allowed to sit in the pressure tnak you want to filter anthing that may build up
( learned from experiance ont hat one)

the wayi set it up the pressure tnak fills when ever hte trashcan is full. and then stays full till it is used at the fridge ( none of the pressure will be WASTED on the trash can)