The T5 Q&a Thread

[The Grim Reefer]

Originally posted by chrismhaase
Grim... I am about to start a 90 reef. I am going to have sps, lps and softies. I was thinking of the Tek 5 - 8x54w. Is this plenty? O yeah it is a standard 48x18deepx 24 tall. Thanks,

I am not sure 8 lamps will fit over that tank, double check that.
For 8 lamps and a blue look try this

Front

Blue Plus
Super Actinic
Aquablue
GE 3000K
Blue Plus
Aquablue
Super Actinic
Blue Plus

You can play around with the position of the 4 center lamps to tweak the look. Order a GE 6500K daylight as a spare and so you can play with different mixes of lamps.

[stevebla]

I just installed a Tek 2 x 54w retrofit t5 it has an advanced "centium ICN 2S54-90C Ballast and cheap "Tru" lamps this rig interferes with the tv any ideas or solutions? I plan as money allows to add a Ice Cap 4 x 54 for six 54w system over my 100g

[ReeferMonkey]

Lots of questions!

I'm swapping out the light on my 20L when I move corals over to my new 60g. The 250W Lumenarc was way overkill on the 20L and I'd like to swap to a fixture that is better suited to the size of the 20L. T5s have intrigued me for some time so I thought a switch was in order.

After reading through the 17 pages of this thread, the general consensus seems to be that the Tek lights are really not all that great. I was considering the Ready Fit fixture but it requires the construction of a canopy which will bump up my overall cost. My sister is coming over from Germany to visit in the next couple of weeks and I'm considering ordering a Powermodul fixture from one of the German sites I've been browsing. Considering the additional expense of the canopy, I think I can justify the extra cost of the Powermodul. The Lumimaster and the Sunpower have a more appealing price point but neither one seems to have a mounting legs option, so both would necessitate the addition of a canopy.

The 20L is going to turn into a quarantine and grow out for a variety of frags, ranging from zoanthids to acropora. Would a 2x24W fixture be enough light for this application or should I bump up to 4x24W?

Reading the blog that was posted earlier, if I go with 2 lamps the look of the 3K and the B+ together was nice. Any thoughts?

edit: Crap, forgot about the voltage drop - not a major obstacle but a PITA nonetheless. Maybe I need to call Greg and get an idea of his timeline for the ATI fixtures.

[The Grim Reefer]

Originally posted by stevebla
I just installed a Tek 2 x 54w retrofit t5 it has an advanced "centium ICN 2S54-90C Ballast and cheap "Tru" lamps this rig interferes with the tv any ideas or solutions? I plan as money allows to add a Ice Cap 4 x 54 for six 54w system over my 100g

Make sure the ballast is grounded.

[The Grim Reefer]

Originally posted by ReeferMonkey
Lots of questions!

I'm swapping out the light on my 20L when I move corals over to my new 60g. The 250W Lumenarc was way overkill on the 20L and I'd like to swap to a fixture that is better suited to the size of the 20L. T5s have intrigued me for some time so I thought a switch was in order.

After reading through the 17 pages of this thread, the general consensus seems to be that the Tek lights are really not all that great. I was considering the Ready Fit fixture but it requires the construction of a canopy which will bump up my overall cost. My sister is coming over from Germany to visit in the next couple of weeks and I'm considering ordering a Powermodul fixture from one of the German sites I've been browsing. Considering the additional expense of the canopy, I think I can justify the extra cost of the Powermodul. The Lumimaster and the Sunpower have a more appealing price point but neither one seems to have a mounting legs option, so both would necessitate the addition of a canopy.

The 20L is going to turn into a quarantine and grow out for a variety of frags, ranging from zoanthids to acropora. Would a 2x24W fixture be enough light for this application or should I bump up to 4x24W?

Reading the blog that was posted earlier, if I go with 2 lamps the look of the 3K and the B+ together was nice. Any thoughts?

edit: Crap, forgot about the voltage drop - not a major obstacle but a PITA nonetheless. Maybe I need to call Greg and get an idea of his timeline for the ATI fixtures.

I would think about the 4x24 watt Tek. or check with aquactinics and see when their 24 watt unit will be available. I would rather have 4 lamps simply because it will allow you to get a better mix of lamps. A 4x 24 watt PM is going to be way bright which is great for SPS and most zoos but softies and LPS are not going to be enjoying life.

[stevebla]

I changed from case ground to terminal ground as the ballast said case OR terminal ground but still get tv interference.

[The Grim Reefer]

If you have a long extension cord plug the ballast into a socket in another room (different circuit) and see what goes on. If it does the same thing it's radio wave interferance. Not much you can do about that Make sure your lamps are seated good and the wire connections are all good. If it goes away you can get a powerstrip with filters that should resolve the problem.

[chrismhaase]

Grim,
I checked and the 8x54 should fit over a standard 90. here is the link. http://www.hellolights.com/488lateklit5.html so I guess this is an inch to long. So if I go with the tek t-5 light with 6x54w. Will this be enough alone to have sps and lps dominated tank? then what should my bulb selection be?

[chrismhaase]

O yeah, PS you are the man. Thank you so much for your input!

[Scythanith]

Hey Grim,

I've read through this entire thread and no one has the same tank size as I do so I need to ask a couple questions.

The tank is 30" tall X 18" deep X 30" wide. I have been running 2 2x65watt PC on it with 2 coralife actinics and 2 coralife 50/50 for almost 4 years now and Im ready to upgrade to T5's. I keep LPS (Echinophyllia sp., Euphyllia sp., Trachyphyllia sp., Lobophyllia sp., Blastomussa sp., Favia sp., Micromussa sp., Acanthastrea sp., Gonipora sp., Alveopora sp.), Zoa's & Paly's, Rhodactis & Actinodiscus sp.

I would like to put a premade fixture on but I am having trouble finding a high quality fixture with cooling fans, good ballasts and individual reflectors that will fit on my tank. I would like to get some montipora's and some crocea's near the top of the tank if possible, if not that's fine.

I have kind of decided on picking up a ice cap 660 and running 4 54watt T5's overdriven with individual reflectors. Using some cooling fans across the bulbs to extend life and remote install the ballasts to displace some heat. Does this sound kosher? What are the best reflectors on the market that can actually be found on the market? As for bulb selection, are ATI bulbs superior?

I liked the aquactinics solar flares but they wont fit my tank. Is it worth buying one (their only 48" right?)and letting it hang over the tank by a couple inches on either side. I have a 120gal (48x24x24) that will be built up in a year or so.

Your opinion is greatly respected, and I'd love to hear your ideas!

Cheers

Scott

[chrismhaase]

I guess if I went with a 6x54, it would yield about 7.2 watts per gallon, in a traditional sense. This should be more than enough to have sps and lps, right??

[Doubledown]

Hey all -

I didn't see this thread earlier with my question about VHO vs. T5 actinics so here's anoter question.

I currently run 2 x 165 watt VHO actinics on PFO ellectronic ballasts. Can I simply switch endcaps, add reflectors and change this to 4 x 80 watt T5s?

Thanks.

[vtrieu88]

I should have ask this question before purchase the 4x54w tech retro. Now I'm thinking of overdriving these 4 bulbs with ic 660. By overdriving the bulbs, I'll have more par, but will it shorten the life of the bulbs.

Thanks.

[TropTrea]

I have not seen any studies done on this for T-5 bulbs however I have seen them done for standard florescent bulbs being over driven.

In the study I had seen the3y were over driven in increments of 10%. At 10% over drive there3 was no apreciable loss in bulb life, and very minimal gain in output. At 20% over drive there was about 15% loss in bubb life but a considerable aqmount in lumens output. However when they overdriven at at 30% the output only gainede by 1 or 2% compared to 20% overdrive and the bulb life decreased to less than 50% of of normal. It should also be noted that when they over powered the bulbs by 50% or more they went to measuring life expectancy in minutes rather than 100's of hours.

Now sice T-5's are basicly a florescent bulb in design I would assume that the results would be simular even though probably not in that exact proportion.

However now it brings up the subject of how much do the 660 balasts realy overdrive these bulbs?

Dennis

Originally posted by vtrieu88
I should have ask this question before purchase the 4x54w tech retro. Now I'm thinking of overdriving these 4 bulbs with ic 660. By overdriving the bulbs, I'll have more par, but will it shorten the life of the bulbs.

Thanks.

[The Grim Reefer]

Originally posted by chrismhaase
Grim,
I checked and the 8x54 should fit over a standard 90. here is the link. http://www.hellolights.com/488lateklit5.html so I guess this is an inch to long. So if I go with the tek t-5 light with 6x54w. Will this be enough alone to have sps and lps dominated tank? then what should my bulb selection be?

As long as you place the corals right you should be fine. Get the limited edition Tek, it has better reflectors supposedly.

Try this for lamps

Front
Blue Plus
Super Actinic
GE 6500K
Aquasun
Aquablue
Blue Plus

[USC-fan]

What would give you more output[par]...

2x t5 54w with Parabolic reflectors or
1x t5 54w with a Tek Reflector.

[The Grim Reefer]

Originally posted by Scythanith
Hey Grim,

I've read through this entire thread and no one has the same tank size as I do so I need to ask a couple questions.

The tank is 30" tall X 18" deep X 30" wide. I have been running 2 2x65watt PC on it with 2 coralife actinics and 2 coralife 50/50 for almost 4 years now and Im ready to upgrade to T5's. I keep LPS (Echinophyllia sp., Euphyllia sp., Trachyphyllia sp., Lobophyllia sp., Blastomussa sp., Favia sp., Micromussa sp., Acanthastrea sp., Gonipora sp., Alveopora sp.), Zoa's & Paly's, Rhodactis & Actinodiscus sp.

I would like to put a premade fixture on but I am having trouble finding a high quality fixture with cooling fans, good ballasts and individual reflectors that will fit on my tank. I would like to get some montipora's and some crocea's near the top of the tank if possible, if not that's fine.

I have kind of decided on picking up a ice cap 660 and running 4 54watt T5's overdriven with individual reflectors. Using some cooling fans across the bulbs to extend life and remote install the ballasts to displace some heat. Does this sound kosher? What are the best reflectors on the market that can actually be found on the market? As for bulb selection, are ATI bulbs superior?

I liked the aquactinics solar flares but they wont fit my tank. Is it worth buying one (their only 48" right?)and letting it hang over the tank by a couple inches on either side. I have a 120gal (48x24x24) that will be built up in a year or so.

Your opinion is greatly respected, and I'd love to hear your ideas!

Cheers

Scott

If you are going to be getting a bigger tank I wouldn't buy anything right now. A 6x24 watt Tek would work but is that worth only using for a year?

[The Grim Reefer]

Originally posted by Doubledown
Hey all -

I didn't see this thread earlier with my question about VHO vs. T5 actinics so here's anoter question.

I currently run 2 x 165 watt VHO actinics on PFO ellectronic ballasts. Can I simply switch endcaps, add reflectors and change this to 4 x 80 watt T5s?

Thanks.

Dont know if those ballasts would fire T5's or not

[The Grim Reefer]

Originally posted by TropTrea
I have not seen any studies done on this for T-5 bulbs however I have seen them done for standard florescent bulbs being over driven.

In the study I had seen the3y were over driven in increments of 10%. At 10% over drive there3 was no apreciable loss in bulb life, and very minimal gain in output. At 20% over drive there was about 15% loss in bubb life but a considerable aqmount in lumens output. However when they overdriven at at 30% the output only gainede by 1 or 2% compared to 20% overdrive and the bulb life decreased to less than 50% of of normal. It should also be noted that when they over powered the bulbs by 50% or more they went to measuring life expectancy in minutes rather than 100's of hours.

Now sice T-5's are basicly a florescent bulb in design I would assume that the results would be simular even though probably not in that exact proportion.

However now it brings up the subject of how much do the 660 balasts realy overdrive these bulbs?

Dennis

T5's are a different animals from other Fluorescents. Just like a VHO is different from a Normal Output. The IC overdrives a 54 watt lamp by just under 50%.

[Tom Foolery]

This is a great thread. Thanks everyone who is sharing all of this information!

I have a couple of questions.

1) I am setting up a 72 Bow (48L x 18W x 22H). It is going to be an sps dominated tank. I was thinking about the Tek light 6 x 54 HO Limited Edition Fixture but after reading some other replies I have some doubts. There was also talk of several fixtures coming out in the near future that would be better than the Tek fixture.

Do you believe it would be worth it to wait for an upcomming fixture? If so, which one(s), and why do you think so?

2) I am also looking for a bulb combination that would maximize coral growth and (ideally) give off a nice blue hue, but not overpowering.


Thanks everyone for your help!

[The Grim Reefer]

Originally posted by Kb-smoker
What would give you more output[par]...

2x t5 54w with Parabolic reflectors or
1x t5 54w with a Tek Reflector.

The Tek reflector is parabolic.

[USC-fan]

Originally posted by The Grim Reefer
The Tek reflector is parabolic.

sorry i might single parabolic.

But i guess that answer my question....


Have you ever heard of Powerwrap Reflector?

I was looking at the new current usa MH/T5 unit. It say it uses these "new" reflectors.

http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merch...Code=Current-H

[Saddler]

What would be a 5 bulb compromise to get the same color as the following 6 bulb setup?:

Front
Blue Plus or Aquablue
SA
Aquasun
Aquablue or Blue Plus
3K
Blue Plus

[Ryan009]

Grim,

Sorry to ask the stupid question but I need a recommendation for a new setup.

I have a 210G (72"L X 24"D X 30"T) in-wall that will be lit primarily by (3) 250W 10K ReefOptix III Metal Halides. I wanted to supplement with with T-5 atinics but I've run into a roadblock finding 72" T-5's.

What setup would you recommend to suppliment the Metal Halides?

[vtrieu88]

T5's are a different animals from other Fluorescents. Just like a VHO is different from a Normal Output. The IC overdrives a 54 watt lamp by just under 50%.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hi Grim,

Do you know of the burning rate? I've read some posted that T5 bulb can last upto 24 months. I don't have a measurement so trying to do an educated guess as when to change the bulb if I overdrive the 54w and 80w.

Thanx.