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#51
07/26/2006, 09:13 PM
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#55
07/27/2006, 02:41 PM
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Quote:
That is a great video. The clown thinks about it and then uses the bridge to travel to the other tank. Very cool.
__________________
"God is dead." - Nietzsche "Nietzsche is dead." - God Click my red house for my 125 gal. tank build thread. |
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#56
07/27/2006, 04:51 PM
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Quote:
__________________
There are indeed stupid questions. War does not determine who is right but only who is left. Cody |
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#59
07/28/2006, 02:39 AM
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this is really awkward but cool at the same time
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#60
07/28/2006, 08:07 AM
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That is really, really cool. Congrats on a successful project. I wonder how hard it is for them to travel up and over being that they are above the tank water level.
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~Little Fish in a Big Pond~ |
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#61
09/11/2006, 04:40 PM
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Just an update.
I only have a few fish; 3 med blue hippos, 2 mated clowns, 1 red cardinal. The red cardinal regularly uses the bridge at night when I'm not looking. The other fish have migrated to the bigger tank and have stayed there. I guess they prefer the bigger tank. I have no plans to try other fish until next year. Limited funds bc I'm a student. :-( |
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#65
12/16/2006, 07:39 PM
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#66
12/16/2006, 07:46 PM
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My skimmer. Body is by Predator, DIY extension tube, DIY beckett injection. I ran out of a certain type of screw, hence the C-clamp. Works great, using 1/3 of the flow from a Iwaki 40, the other 2/3 goes to tank flow. Some microbubble issues, flow through sump is to large. Running skimmer one day a week after feeding to promote feather duster growth and sponges.
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#67
12/16/2006, 07:52 PM
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 I took baby shots of frogspawn buds(approx Jan 05), cut them off a mounted them. Now, almost two years later... 
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#68
12/16/2006, 08:00 PM
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Above tank fuge(approx 7 gal) is nice, just cheato and some recently added macros.
Low, really low, flow, fed by a 3/8" tube, tee'd off from return line. A stand pipe returns the water to the tank below. Lit by a 24" 50/50 PC. This works very nice and no maintenance except harvesting cheato. Maybe I could put some seahorses in here? Tried using a small powerhead for flow but it kept getting clogged and pods were reduced. 
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#69
12/16/2006, 08:07 PM
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To reduce algea, I am doing regular water changes of 45 gallons per month, my total water volume is est at 200 gal; increasing flow too. This has help a lot! But there is still algea in there. I have maybe 5 snails, and I clean the glass once a month.
 I noticed a slight light color imbalance from the two XM 175W/10k bulbs. The picture exaggerates this, and I made it a point to align the bulb nipple at 12:00 position for both bulbs. Hmm? |
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#70
12/16/2006, 08:17 PM
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This is the backside of the 120
 I recently added a 30 frag pack from RM, to try SPS again. Poor water quality had made prior attempts unsuccesful. For flow I have tee'd off from two Iwaki 40's, a cheap pump from a Jebo skimmer, maxijet 1200, and a sieo 650, and a Rio 2500. The flow is directed against the glass. The locations of the powerhead(s) is unslghtly but gives the froggy less flow while the frags on the one end of the tank get a constant buffeting. Lighting is XM250W/10k and a 175W/20K on the one side of the tank above the corals. |
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#71
12/16/2006, 08:20 PM
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As for the bridge thingy, it works great. I have had several fish loss, so my only fish now are a couple of mollies*, one Tang, a red cardinal*, a cleaner shrimp, mated pair blue coral band shrimps, and a orange goby.
*indicates they use the bridge regularly. The tang stays in the bigger tank. |
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#72
12/16/2006, 08:26 PM
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I wish I could have a nicer tank. like some of the others, I have seen, with explosive SPS growth.
Now I think I will focus on water changes, building a calcium reactor, to see if my new sps will grow well. I plan no purchases in the near future, except I want to try to raise greenwater and rotifers for feeding. I currently just feed cyclopeeze once a week and add kalk. Any suggestions that involve not spending money would be helpful. |
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#73
12/16/2006, 08:32 PM
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My parameters are:
Ph range 8.0-8.4 Salinity 1.025 Calcium 420 Alk 9.6 dKh Phosphate 0.03 ppm Nitrate 10 ppm |
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#74
12/16/2006, 09:03 PM
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Fuge reverse lighting PH level
In between studying, I kept track of my PH level.
I found that Changing the lighting period of the fuge has drastic effects, I made it a point not to do nothing to the tank water.  In the first graph, at 12am, PH begins a drastic decline, as soon as the halides go off, then ph rises when the fuge comes on at 6am, theres a slight Ph drop as the fuge shuts off, and the halides come on at 6pm, then Ph peaks, when the halides shuts off again 24-hours later. The second graph, I had the fuge turn on after the halides shut off. The fuge is on longer which is good, but the light on in the middle of the night keeps me from sleeping. I'm using cardboard for shading around my fuge but the light is so bright. The fuge is an above tank fuge, so it's like having a light on all night. But what a difference in the drop in PH. the scale is the same in both graphs. This is just a FYI. |
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#75
12/17/2006, 01:05 AM
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I envisioned being able to provide 8 ft of swimming space for a tang using the bridge. Although the bridge is useful, I am not sure if it can equate to a 6' or 8' tank.
I'd really like to try drilling a 4" hole through the glass and connect the tanks with some sort of bulkhead or something. Imagine connecting two 6' tanks together! Can it be done? |
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