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#1
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Are bulkheads worth the price?
I know I can use pvc fittings for bulkheads, but do they leak? Is it worth it to use bulkheads?
Input?
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This post approved by Mrs. Sixline. assign <= six.line(#FFFFFF && string("nerdy")) |
#2
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IMO It is kinda a personal pref, some people use the pvc and others bulkheads. Obviously the bulk heads are going to be better but that doesnt mean pvc wont work just fine as well.
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#3
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What are you plumbing?
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I love being a turtle!!! |
#4
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Bulkheads are designed for the purpose of keeping the water in the tank, PVC fittings are not, bulkheads are really cheap especially when you consider the cost of fix water damage. So with that in mind I cannot understand why anyone would not use bulkheads.
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#5
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buy bulkhead and dont look back.
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#6
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I have used pvc and have no leaks. I used the fittings that adapt 1.5 pvc to 1.5 sink drain pipe. I simply use a rubber gasket made from pond liner and have never had a problem. They have been in place for over a year with no problems.
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People will never learn or advance if they let doubt rule. |
#7
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Peace of mind and a good nights sleep is worth the price of a bulkhead.Not saying store bought bulkheads dont ever leak,but they are way less prone to go bad then say a diy one,Just my preference on this one.
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Jorge |
#8
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Let's just put it this way... You're debating on whether or not to splurge on a cheapo part that costs LESS than the water and salt you have in your tank at any given time... You decide
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-Eric- CORA Member |
#9
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I've use electrical fittings (not tapered threads) with no problems. I've also used bulkheads that have leaked.
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Dan "It's not the arrow, it's the Indian." But an Indian can't kill anything with a crooked arrow. |
#10
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Oh, forgot to add....yes they are worth the price DIY on this one doesn't really save that much money (if any) but, are not always available local if you need in a hurry.
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Dan "It's not the arrow, it's the Indian." But an Indian can't kill anything with a crooked arrow. |
#11
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Get Sched 80 BHs...
Which would you want on your tank ??
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Shawn |
#12
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lol rokie
Well, I know I'm splitting hairs, but when I want to drill 4-5 holes, bulkheads can run you as low as $30 and as high as you want, really. The PVC fittings are $0.75 a pop. I'm stretchin' beyond the budget as it is, and trying to explore my options. Most everyone here has said what the nagging side of me was saying... Thanks for the input.
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This post approved by Mrs. Sixline. assign <= six.line(#FFFFFF && string("nerdy")) |
#13
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Quote:
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Shawn |
#14
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I'd say the BH's are definately woth the price, for all the reasons listed.
I'd get the Shed80 ones. Also, drill the holes for the larger size. My tank had 10 holes for 3/4" BH's (5 on each short side). I had to use the smaller cheapo ones for the 1" closed loop because the Shed. 80 1" were too wide. It's easier to restrict the flow than re-drill holes in an existing tank. Just my 2 cents... JR P.S. I have a stack of 3/4" Shed 80 BH's if you're intrested... |
#15
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Quote:
Heavy Duty Bulkhead Tank Adapter Pipe Size to Hole Size Chart
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Shawn |
#16
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Yup...
That's the problem. Mine were the Hayward hex ones, but size about the same. The tank came with 10 holes drilled on both of the short sides. JR |
#17
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I've boughten 1" slip bulkheads on ebay for $1.00 a pop when you buy 10 or more. I used them for over 2 years before I took the tank down. Where are these $37 bulkheads?
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#18
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Just a thought, would uniseals work for a bulkhead?
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#19
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Quote:
A bulkhead has a much larger flange area than a threaded male/female DIY setup. Because of the larger flange area, there is much less chance of leaks and salt creep. The larger flange area will help to cover imperfections or chips on the glass. Not only will the larger flange help in the initial seal, but it helps to distribute the force exerted by the plumbing over a larger area. The larger area makes glass breakage or leaking due to jarring the plumbing MUCH less likely. As somebody mentioned, standard pvc threads are tapered and a PITA to get to seal. PVC electrical fittings are not tapered and can be used. Tapered fittings require a fair amount of force to seal. The can impart a lot of stress into the female fitting. They can split weeks or years down the road. Add to this the stress that can be imparted by the hard mounting surface (the glass tank) and you are asking for failure. In other words every bump or nudge of the plumbing is transfered to the female fitting that is tasked with not only sealing the contraption but holding it tight to the glass. Do any of you use DIY PVC "bulkheads" of course... do they work? Of course? Is it a good idea... not really. Is it a BIG money saver? Not really. Then again to each his own. |
#20
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I have five 2 inch, three 1.5 inch bulkheads on my 390 display. I have three 2 inch, one 1 inch bulkheads on my 125 sump. I have four 1 inch bulkheads on my storage and mixing tanks. That's 16 total bulkheads. For me, it's not worth the risk of going cheap, when it comes to keeping 650 gallons of water off the floor.
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Click on my red house to see my 390 build thread. |
#21
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Hi all,
Just another two cents.. I have never paid more than about $7.00 for any bulkhead. I have used the cheap hayward 1.5" versions and the "economy" 1" from Aquatic Ecosystems. I have had an occassional leak which is usually easily fixed by reseating the bulkhead. I have never had the thread jumping problem. Just be sure not to mix up the nuts for the bulkheads since different brands may have slightly different threads. The only other problem I have had with inexpensive bulkheads is that they sometimes come with cheap neoprene gaskets that break down over time. BUNA and silicone gaskets are best. IMO, the hassle of getting standard pvc fittings to fit properly, seal properly and not leak is not worth the difference in price (maybe $3 per hole with the inexpensive bulkheads). Unless the fitting is going to support a lot of weight, be under a lot of stress or is carrying tremendous pressure, I don't see the point in spending the money on schedule 80. HTH Adam
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MACNA XIX September 14,15,16, 2007 Pittsburgh, PA Click my little red house for details |
#22
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Sched 80 bulkheads locally here are about $25 apiece. I bought my bulkheads from savko.com for about 4 bucks each and they leak where the fitting screws into it.
I've used electrical PVC as bulkheads and it never leaked a drop in 2 yrs 8 months of continuous use. Those cost me $2.80. Its really up to you in the end. IMO making them out of PVC is just as good.
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Great spirits often encounter violent opposition from mediocre minds. Last edited by impur; 12/27/2006 at 06:05 PM. |
#23
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Quote:
Your picture illustrates the very tiny surface area that a "DIY" bulkhead seals on. You may have had good luck with them, but they are still not an ideal solution (as outlined above). |
#24
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I have never had a quality bulkhead (like from savko) leak a drop. I'm assuming not enough or too much teflon tape or paste was or wasn't used.
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-Eric- CORA Member |
#25
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I redid the teflon tape 3 times, added silicon even. Nothing stopped it from leaking.
Someday i'll give teflon paste a try. I'm still too upset at the whole CL to even touch it. BeanAnimal - you are right, the PVC ones only have roughly half the surface area to seal as normal bulkheads. But the threads are much better (electrical PVC fittings are not tapered), they are much cheaper, and when used with a good washer and the right sized hole i've never run across a problem. I understand what you are saying, but IMO i'd go with PVC over normal bulkheads all day. Obviously PVC to PVC threaded connection would match much better than PVC to a bulkhead. The proof to me is in my attempts to use both, the PVC ones being much better everytime.
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Great spirits often encounter violent opposition from mediocre minds. |
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