Solaris Led lighting systems - Page 19

neoreef · #**451** 11/29/2006, 02:15 PM

I been following this thread and am curious if anyone has had these lights long enough to form an opinion regarding coral coloration. I would think that with the 20K light the blues and purples would be okay but what about the response for the warmer colored corals. The oranges, pinks and reds?

SWSaltwater · #**452** 11/29/2006, 04:30 PM

coloration is on the same level as MH IMO. All my colors look great. I placed several corals in that tank to get color back in them.

Rob

Gomer · #**453** 11/29/2006, 11:57 PM

For those with 20k and 13k version.

Per 25 LED set:

How many white LEDs?
How many blue LEDs?
How many green LEDs?

Anyone have a picture of the heatsinks?

Ti · #**454** 11/30/2006, 12:50 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Gomer
For those with 20k and 13k version.

Per 25 LED set:

How many white LEDs?
How many blue LEDs?
How many green LEDs?

Anyone have a picture of the heatsinks?

might have to email PFO

Reefmaniac1 · #**455** 11/30/2006, 10:02 AM

Definintely worth investigating further. I don't have a tank currently (due to power outage)...so I've got some time to save up.

SWSaltwater · #**456** 11/30/2006, 11:34 AM

20 k is 13blue 10white 2green per each LED bank. Mine is 72" and has 6 banks.

Amphibious · #**457** 11/30/2006, 12:14 PM

Gomer,

Quote:

Anyone have a picture of the heatsinks?

I think the unit would have to be disassembled to get a pic of the heat sinks. I don't know of anyone willing to do that. Disassembly could be considered an act of voiding the warrantee if something went wrong. These units are too expensive to swallow because of negligence. I, personally, would not risk it.

jnb · #**458** 11/30/2006, 12:46 PM

As I was on the phone with PFO, we got into mine to check out a connection, they are easy to get in to - but to see a heat sink you have to remove one or more led banks depending on how much of a heat sink you want to see - why do you need to see a heatsink - are your building an led fixture?

Quote:

Originally posted by Gomer
For those with 20k and 13k version.

Per 25 LED set:

How many white LEDs?
How many blue LEDs?
How many green LEDs?

Anyone have a picture of the heatsinks?

Gomer · #**459** 11/30/2006, 09:06 PM

Ya, I have played many times with LED fixtures. I actually have one running on a FW tank but I am new to SW.

For anyone with a solaris or with first hand experience

The Solaris is made up of 25LED sections. Suppose you were using the solaris on the JBJ Nanocube12. Would a single 25LED section be too little, jsut right, or way over kill.

1) if a zoo/shroom tank.
2) if a SPS tank
3) if a Clam

Appreciate any comments

(part of my measure twice, cut once plan

)

SWSaltwater · #**460** 12/01/2006, 01:55 AM

I suspect with the heat issues I see with nano cubes, aqua pods, etc that LED's are the only way to go. Might increase cost but well worth it. I don't think it would be overkill. Would be an awesome nano with 25 luxeons.

Gomer · #**461** 12/01/2006, 02:43 AM

Thanks for your opinion SW. Just gotta ask though, is this an opinion based on experience with solaris? I will be doing a "DIY" version of this, but I need a good foundation to work with. No sense in getting 25 if 15 is more than enough

Amphibious · #**462** 12/01/2006, 05:33 AM

I think you are going to have to experiment on your own on that issue. All the Solaris have 25 LEDs per bank. Any given answer would be pure conjecture. So, after you build your light be sure to share your findings by reporting back here. I'm sure many Nano owners would love to know the answer to that question.

SWSaltwater · #**463** 12/01/2006, 10:26 AM

I do have solaris, and with current coming out with an LED hood in february, IMO I would think they would offer a aqua pod with LED's not far after that.

RGibson · #**464** 12/01/2006, 11:11 AM

swsaltwater have you look at the LED stop lights and how thay are built.The cost of the lights are $57.00 each and thay are water proof.

SWSaltwater · #**465** 12/01/2006, 11:21 AM

Have not looked at em, but there are a ton of LED options out there. the biggest issues with the high power LED's is loosing the heat. You have to find an effective way to remove heat from the circuits/leds. Start with a good heat sync (probably can canabalize one of the old huge penitum heat syncs and start from there. Compaqs use to have huge heat syncs for the pentium 2 processors.

Something like this.

http://www.cstore.ucf.edu/Department...p?item=FAN0003

RGibson · #**466** 12/01/2006, 11:40 AM

If you will chech the stop lights thay have a design to loose the heat.Think of the heat in a hot part of the US thay work in .

skydancer · #**467** 12/01/2006, 11:46 AM

RGibson, the stop lights do not use 3W LEDs, or they would not be cost efective with regular bulbs.

pjf · #**468** 12/02/2006, 04:27 PM

What acclimation procedures should be followed to ensure a successful transition of SPS corals from metal halide lighting to dimmer LED lighting?

In Dana Riddle’s “Too Much Light!” article (http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issu...04/feature.htm), he found that Montipora could be photo inhibited by a mere 260 µmol·m2·sec. In fact, his experiment showed that photosynthetic activity was higher with ambient room lighting than with metal halide lighting.

Given that light-tolerant SPS corals can be acclimated to lower illumination, what is the best way to accomplish that? In other words, how do we get the SPS to shed the protective “sunscreen” that it uses to protect itself from mid-day sun and metal halide lighting?

RGibson · #**469** 12/02/2006, 05:18 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by skydancer
RGibson, the stop lights do not use 3W LEDs, or they would not be cost efective with regular bulbs.

You can see the stop lights 3 blocks away thay sure have something going for them to be that bright.

SWSaltwater · #**470** 12/03/2006, 01:09 AM

I took all my coral out a MH 400W tank and direct to my new Solaris tank. No issues that I could see in any corals.

reefplayer · #**471** 12/03/2006, 12:12 PM

Nice to have this new lighting system as an option. But i doubt is can compare to 400W MH intensity. As this system currently made a comparison to 250W MH and at certain depth. I have a 2.5ft (30inch) depth tank and i placed my monti plate right below. My corals will not hold its colour given the intensity.

I hope Solaris can quickly come out a more intensed LED bulbs so i can consider for a change. MH is too hot and wasted alot of electricity.

Stan

Gomer · #**472** 12/03/2006, 01:02 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by RGibson
You can see the stop lights 3 blocks away thay sure have something going for them to be that bright.

With optics or the dome design you can get single digit angles of emmission. Can you imagine how bright the hot spot of an 60watt incandescent bulb would be if you focused the light to a 3° angle?

3 Cree LEDs with an aspherical lense

http://www.molalla.net/~leeper/xrebeam8.jpg

GSMguy · #**473** 12/03/2006, 01:43 PM

sick
so what would a solaris pointing at the sky look like?

lalc · #**474** 12/03/2006, 06:34 PM

nice "moonlights"

hahnmeister · #**475** 12/04/2006, 05:14 PM

How true. Im finding that the same is true of halides vs T5s. All other things aside, a combo of T5s and a similar K-rated halide have about the same output at the bulb... but the T5s are able to get more of that light into the tank. Halides often are 6-12" above the water, and unless you are directly under the reflector, the output coming out is at an angle, so when it tries to go through that air to water boundary, much of it just ends up getting reflected back up into the canopy. The T5s are closer to the water, and cover more of the water's surface, so they capture more of the light that reflects, but less of the light reflects in the first place because its entering the water at angles very close to perpendicular anyways. Proof? Look at the light reflected upwards in the canopy... many halide lit tanks have canopy insides that are almost as bright as the tank, where T5 lit canopies (retrofit) are dark.