![]() |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
i finally got everything i needed for my new 135gal. i took 2 days of measuring ang getting all of the pipes run to were they needed to go. filled the tank and every connection leaked. i used 1" id clear silicone hose with 1" barbed fittings and then hosed clamped them. all of the threaded joints i used plumber tape on and they leak. i can't get them any tighter. i have an amp master 3000 for a pump. is the pump the problem? too much pressure. but the drain side leaks also and there is no pressure. i'm just about ready to sell everything. can anyone tell me what kind of pipe and fittings i need to use. the amp master is running a 1" sea swirl and the 2 returns. the tank is reef ready with 2 built in overflows. thanks for any help.
cowboy
__________________
No good deed goes unpunished |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
I have found that pipe dope works better than teflon tape. I've never had a problem with barbed fittings. But threads and cement joint have given me much grief in the past. So, my pearls are Spa-flex and pipe dope. Don't try tightening more. It won't help if the thread are leaking. You'll only break something.
|
#3
|
|||
|
|||
i have heard of guys using silicone on threaded fittings but if you ever want to unscrew them again dont do it. i have the same problem with threads on my gen-x 55. its a pressure rated pump so tht might be part of the problem. i used a ton of teflon tape and it still leaks. all my other plumbing is PVC and i have no problems with that. as far as the barbs go you might have over tightened the clamps causing the vinyl tubing to pinch causing a gap. if you are using metal ones try swapping them out for the plastic ratchet type ones. they seem to sit flush on the pipe all the way around, plus they wont rust. hope that helps.
-nick
__________________
"If you sqeeze me, I make bad people go away!" -Petey the Pistol |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
sea swirl?
how can i stop my sea swirl from creating a suction backwards when i have a power failure. someone must have an answer for this problem and it is probly so simple that i'm overlooking it. it can drain backwards now but i would like to have more water in my sump. and i cant unless i can stop the sea swirl from daining backwards.
cowboy
__________________
No good deed goes unpunished |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Re: sea swirl?
Quote:
|
#6
|
|||
|
|||
is that the only answer? I am thinking of getting a swirl and this is my only concern.
|
#7
|
|||
|
|||
the only check valves i could find were metal. i was worried about contamination ant corrosion.
cowboy
__________________
No good deed goes unpunished |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
The only two options are a siphon break, (small hole below just below the water line) or a check valve. Unfotunately its the "Law" of gravity not the "Suggestion" of gravity.
Mike |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
Check valves can be found in the PVC department that are plastic. Better ones can be found here:
http://www.marinedepot.com/md_search...=15&Clearance= Mike |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
On your threaded connections.. NEVER use tape.. always use silicone.
__________________
updated 4/15/07 SG: 1.025 Temp: 77.2 Ammonia: 0 NO2: 0 NO3: .15 (doing another water change) PO4: .01 Ca: 500 Alk: 9.0 dKH Mg: aprox. 1200 pH: 8.0 ORP: 320 average |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
wow, whats the point of using threaded connections then? might as well install unions. how are you supposed to unscrew installed plumbing when its siliconed? a wrench puts alot of stress on anything connected to the piece to are unscrewing which as far as im concerned is bad.
-nick
__________________
"If you sqeeze me, I make bad people go away!" -Petey the Pistol |
|
|