T5 ballasts compared - Page 10

dc_909 · #**226** 08/31/2006, 10:09 AM

On ReefGeek they have an Icecap T5 retro for 360 and a Triad retro for 299, but to add Icecap reflectors it is more money.

Is the IceCap still the best deal or would it be cheaper to piece it together and still be worthy?

The Grim Reefer · #**227** 08/31/2006, 10:21 AM

Ice Cap has the best reflectors. If thats all the difference in price then it makes sense to grab a new ballast and sell the 660.

ShipWreck2 · #**228** 09/08/2006, 12:59 PM

Just finished reading through this whole thread and must say Grim you have finally put numbers to the hype that help explain it all. Thanks.

Now the one question I didn't see is are IC ballasts the only ballast that will overdrive the lamps?

The Grim Reefer · #**229** 09/08/2006, 03:17 PM

You can overdrive them with the fulhams but I am not sure how reliable/safe that would be.

stereomandan · #**230** 09/09/2006, 09:58 AM

O.k, sorry to ask this, but I'm not sure if I have my numbers right.

How many amps does a spec ballast like the IC dynamic draw on two 54W T5's? 1.4A?

Your first post lists 1.4A @ 135 total PAR. Was that 1.4A for each spec ballast (2.8A total), with a combined PAR for all 4 lamps of 135?

This would be versus one IC660 ballast with a current draw of around 4A and a PAR of 183?

Dan

The Grim Reefer · #**231** 09/09/2006, 11:40 AM

The 1.4 amps was for 1 ballast. The real world wattage numbers were 303 for the IC running 4 lamps and depending on the lamps used 110 to 139 for each ballast running 2 lamps.

stereomandan · #**232** 09/09/2006, 11:45 AM

Thanks for the quick reply Grim, and clearing up my question.

Dan

surfnvb7 · #**233** 09/10/2006, 03:24 AM

how many watts would an icecap 660 actually draw with running 4x24w ATI blue plus bulbs?

icecap 330 running 2x24w ATI blue plus bulbs?

these would just be used as supplemental actinic lighting over 2 seperate tanks.

thanks

The Grim Reefer · #**234** 09/10/2006, 08:22 AM

Dunno. Never measured 24" lamps. I know the ballast was tested by IC to push 85 watts through a 54 watt lamp. four lamps would theoretically draw 340 watts yet the ballast only draws 303. 24 watt lamps are supposed to be ran at 50 watts. If my math is right and the power factor holds true 4 24's will draw around 170 watts.

livehuman · #**235** 09/10/2006, 02:11 PM

i would like to see some par readings on the (program start ballast) all of the instant start bALLAST cause the bulbs to burn out prematurely. look up program start ballast and do some reading..

The Grim Reefer · #**236** 09/10/2006, 02:28 PM

Those PAR readings WERE from program start ballasts except for the Workhorse.

horkn · #**237** 09/11/2006, 01:01 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by livehuman
i would like to see some par readings on the (program start ballast) all of the instant start bALLAST cause the bulbs to burn out prematurely. look up program start ballast and do some reading..

or ignore what people think will happen and test that theory out for yourself.

i did, and my workhorse 5 driven 3x39 w t5ho retro fit is still going strong with original bulbs from like 19 months ago. btw, the ends of my bulbs look about as dark as bulbs that had 6-9 months on them driven by spec t5ho ballasts in a tek light on a friends tank.

the biggest issue with the workhorse ballast is that they do not have end of life protection. if you read up on it, you will see that t5ho bulbs have a huge lifespan, and that 99.9% of all reefers dont even come close to burning their t5ho bulbs up.

i am actually seeing if that will ever happen on my tank. LOL

has anyone actually had a workhorse drievn t5ho "die" while in use? if so, i would love to hear what happens.

jamal-188 · #**238** 09/11/2006, 01:25 PM

Still debating on T5's instead of MH's on my 95g tank....any comments on this thread

http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...hreadid=925133

ASH · #**239** 09/11/2006, 01:50 PM

Re the WH, the issue isn't that the ballasts croaks and what happens next, it's if a T5HO lamp dies and the ballast fails to shut off power or at least power to that lamp.

Re the comparison of Tek driven lamps and WH driven lamps, the ambient temperature could be more significant than the two different ballast's method of starting the lamp as to what caused the ends to blacken and / or the lamps to prematurely age.

Andy

Snarkys · #**240** 09/11/2006, 02:26 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by jamal-188
Still debating on T5's instead of MH's on my 95g tank....any comments on this thread

http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...hreadid=925133

sometimes i wonder if people over think this stuff. there is more than one way to skin a cat or grow a coral for that matter : )

i have a 90 with a 8x54w tek fixture and my clams, sps, lps and polyps all thrive under it . the fixture looks slick and unobtrusive, i don't have to have a hood, no heat issues, the bulbs last like two years and i like the color.

I bet some MH bulbs can ya get ya more par if ya if that's what you are looking for.

ShipWreck2 · #**241** 09/29/2006, 02:24 PM

My new tank is a 29" high x 18" deep x 60" long tank that I would like to house SPS, LPS and clams in from bottom to top. After reading all of grims research and some other TOTM's I really think IceCap driven T5's are the way to go. Now would 6 overdriven 54w t5's with icecap ballast and reflectors penetrate to that depth or will I have to stick with MHs?

The Grim Reefer · #**242** 09/29/2006, 02:58 PM

T5's will work as long as you stick to the Ice Cap stuff and good lamps. Halides would probably work better at that depth but either is an option.

ASH · #**243** 09/29/2006, 05:27 PM

From IceCap:
ShipWreck2, I'd recommend the 6 VHO driven T5HO 54-watters but instead of staggering them, I'd have 4 down the middle and the front 2 off center. Behind the off center lamps I'd run either a 150-MH HQI or 2 Spot 6.5K Iwasaki flood-like HQI bulbs known for deep PAR penetration (two excellent reviews by Greg Schiemer). Either MH I'd have low to the water compared to the T5HO lamps. I'd use UVL Super Actinics on a Model 430 for the front T5HO lamps and a Model 660 blasting a mix of GE T5HO 6.5K 54-W lamps and UVL Actinic White lamps. PAR will not be your problem. You could always raise the K on your daylight T5's or raise the height of your MH if they're overpowering your corals. (Adjustable MH was suggested at MACNA by Sanjay and it makes a lot of sense.)

As we're about to release our version of the Hummer III, (a 150-MH sized pendant like or 250/400 HQI and now Mogul too pendants) we'd give a pair of either pendants with lamps for a thread with pics of the project on our forum. If you needed 150-watt MH ballasts we could work out a deal.

Andy

kelled2 · #**244** 09/29/2006, 08:41 PM

OK LET ME GET THIS RIGHT 4 BONG HITS TWO MUSHROOMS, PINK FLOYD DARK SIDE OF THE MOON AND T5 LIGHTING..........NICE

I AM ALL IN.....................LMAO

ShipWreck2 · #**245** 09/29/2006, 09:27 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by ASH
From IceCap:
ShipWreck2, I'd recommend the 6 VHO driven T5HO 54-watters but instead of staggering them, I'd have 4 down the middle and the front 2 off center. Behind the off center lamps I'd run either a 150-MH HQI or 2 Spot 6.5K Iwasaki flood-like HQI bulbs known for deep PAR penetration (two excellent reviews by Greg Schiemer). Either MH I'd have low to the water compared to the T5HO lamps. I'd use UVL Super Actinics on a Model 430 for the front T5HO lamps and a Model 660 blasting a mix of GE T5HO 6.5K 54-W lamps and UVL Actinic White lamps. PAR will not be your problem. You could always raise the K on your daylight T5's or raise the height of your MH if they're overpowering your corals. (Adjustable MH was suggested at MACNA by Sanjay and it makes a lot of sense.)

I was considering using 6 of these but hadn't considered adding metal halides with them, but interesting idea. I follow the layout of the T5's no problem but can't quite visualize where the 150mh would go, Can you post a sketch? I have not build my hood so having it accomodate lighting that can be moved would not be an issue but when you say the MH pendants would be lower then the T5's I thought they were supposed to be only 3" or so off the water, are the new fixtures submersable? Would they be pointed on an angle towards the center area of the tank or straight down as normal?

Quote:

As we're about to release our version of the Hummer III, (a 150-MH sized pendant like or 250/400 HQI and now Mogul too pendants) we'd give a pair of either pendants with lamps for a thread with pics of the project on our forum. If you needed 150-watt MH ballasts we could work out a deal.

Andy

PM me with the details I would certainly be interested in helping you out and trying these but I would need to get the ballast as well, for that matter I will have to purchase the rest of the T5 components as well

greenstarfish03 · #**246** 10/30/2006, 07:11 PM

Grim,

I have a 70 gallon that is 36X24X18 24 inches high. I currently have 4 96W PC ran by 2 WH7's. Two of my encaps are bad and I have two blown bulds. I was wondering if you thought I should switch my 2 bad PCS over to T5s and then when my other two PCs are bad switch them over as well. If so what I will need? new reflectors for the t5s and new bulbs, and new endcaps I'm guessing? What would you buy for all three and where from to get the best deal? My hood hangs over the tank and is about 14-15 inches deep and about 6 inches high. I just rebuilt that and I would like to use it. My two PCs that are good are both 10K both actinics need to be replaced.

I have some shrooms, ricordia, hammers, torch, bubbles, and zoos in the tank no sps's or clams, but I may want a clam one day if I have enough light.

So I should switch to 4 39watt T5s I would think after reading this. Then later if I wanted I could add two more to my current ballasts right.

Thanks for the help Grim.

The Grim Reefer · #**247** 10/30/2006, 07:17 PM

You will need a reflector, pair of endcaps and pair of standoffs for each lamp. reefgeek.com usually has the best prices.

If you are going to start with 2 lamps get ATI Blue pluses if your actinics are dead. The BP will give you a nice boost in PAR and look great.

greenstarfish03 · #**248** 10/31/2006, 08:54 PM

So if I understand this correctly I can run up to 4 39W T5 bulbs on EACH ballast? That is good for future expansion I guess.

It also looks like I will get more light in my tank w/ 2 39W T5 bulbs then I was getting w/ 2 96W power compacts? I assume I will save energy as well then b/c I will get more light output w/ way less energy consumption. That is cool!

What things do you think I could keep w/ 4 39W T5s over my tank? What would I need to keep a clam?

greenstarfish03 · #**249** 10/31/2006, 09:27 PM

Are your bulbs over the water or do you plexi or an egggrate between them and the water? How high above the water are your bulbs? My PC's are probably 3-4 inches above the water w/ only an eggcrate between.

When I use plexi so much salt gets on the plexi so quick I can't keep up and then more light can't get through. what works for you?

greenstarfish03 · #**250** 10/31/2006, 09:30 PM

I'm assuimg I have to rewire these new endcaps for the T5 and my WH7 ballast do you know where I can get a good wire diagram?