phosphates in Live Rock

[nycmat]

is there such a thing if so how do i get rid of them??

thanks
matt

[Sindjin]

Oh no...

Not again...


Try This:

http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...t=rock+cooking

Yes. Live rock houses PO4. The link above will lead to salvation, my brother.

[Hobster]

Gee, I thought you would have linked him to this thread also:

http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...5&pagenumber=1

[Sindjin]

Yeah, I guess I should have!
Really we should just post this:

Originally posted by SeanT (Rock Chef Extraodinaire)
The purpose of "cooking" your rocks is to have the bacteria consume all (or as much) organic material and PO4 stored on, and in, the rock as possible.

The first step to this is commitment.
You have to be willing to remove your rock from the tank.
It doesn't have to be all at once, but I feel if you are going to do this do it all. In stages if that is easier but make sure that all of it gets done.

The new environment you are creating for your rock is to take it from an algal driven to a bacterial driven system.
In order to do this, the rock needs to be in total darkness to retard and eventually kill the algae's on the rock and to give the bacteria time to do the job.

So basically you need tubs to hold the rock.

Equipment needed.
1. Dedication.
2. Tubs to cook rock in. And an equal amount of tubs to hold the rock during waterchanges.
3. A few powerheads.
4. Plenty of buckets.
5. A smug feeling of superiority that you are taking it to "the next level."
6. Saltwater, enough made up to follow the instructions below and to replenish your tank after removing rocks.
Here are the steps:

1. Get into your head and accept the fact you will be making lots of salt water if you aren't lucky enough to have access to filtered NSW.
2. Explain to significant other what is going on so they don't flip out. This process can take up to 2 months. Prepare them in advance so he/she can mark it on the calendar and that they won't nag about it until that date arrives.
3. Setup a tub(s) where the rock is to be cooked. Garages are great for this.
4. Make up enough water to fill tub(s) about halfway and around 5-7 buckets about 60% full.
5. Remove all the rock you want to cook at this stage. (The rock can be removed piece by piece until you are done.) I suggest shutting off the circulation beforehand to minimize dust storms.
6. Take the first piece of rock and dunk it, swish it, very, very well in the first bucket. Then do it again in the 2nd bucket, then the third.
7. Place rock in the tub.
8. Repeat steps 6 & 7 to every piece of rock you want to cook at this time. The reason I suggested 5-7 buckets of water will be evident quickly...as the water quickly turns brown.
9. Place powerhead(s) in the tub and plug in. Position at least one powerhead so that it agitates the surface of the water pretty well. This is to keep the water oxygenated. You can use an air pump for additional oxygenation if you wish. Only one powerhead per tub is needed. Remember the powerheads main responsibility is the oxygenation of the water.
10. Cover the tub. Remember, we want TOTAL darkness.
11. Empty out buckets, restart circulation on main tank.
12. Wait.
13. During the first couple of weeks it is recommended to do a swishing and dunking of the rocks twice a week.
What this entails is to make up enough water to fill up those buckets and the tub the rock is in.
First, lay out your empty tub(s) and fill buckets the same as before.
Then, uncover tub with the rock in it. Take a rock and swish it in the tub it's in to knock any easy to get off junk.
Then, swish it thru the 3 buckets again, and place in the empty tub..
Repeat for all your rocks.
Then empty the tub that all the rocks were cooking in, take it outside and rinse it out with a hose.
Place tub back where it was, fill with new saltwater, add rocks and powerheads, and cover.
Wait again until the next water change.
You will be utterly amazed at how much sand, silt, detritus is at the bottom of the tub and every bucket. It is amazing.
At times the stench was so strong I gagged.

How it works:

Some FAQ's.
When re-introducing the rock to my tank, a month or two from now, should I do that in parts to help minimize any cycling effect(s)...if there are any?
I never have. Really after a very short while, the ammonium cycle has been established. That's not what you're worry about though, it's the stored phosphates and that you have to wait it out.
When they are producing very little detritus - you'll know - then I would use them all at once.

Would running Carbon filtration and/or a PO4 reducing media help/hurry/hinder the process?
I wouldn't fool with it. You don't want the detritus to sit there long enough to rot, release water soluble P again. You want to take it out while it's still locked up in that bacterial detritus.

I would say that 85% of my exposed rock had Bryopsis (hair algae) covering it.
There isn't a single visible strand on any rocks my tank now.
Remember, the key is patience. Let this process run its course.

And a few last minute tidbits I remembered.
Your coralline will die back, recede etc.
My thoughts on this are GREAT!
Now my rock is more porous for additional pods, mysids, worms etc.
Coralline will grow back.
Throughout this process the sponges, and pods on my rock have not died off.
Every time I do a water change they are there and plentiful.

[gman0526]

Originally posted by nycmat
is there such a thing if so how do i get rid of them??

thanks
matt

How big a problem with PO4 are you having, if any?

[bertoni]

If the phosphate level in your tank is high, this article discusses methods of dealing with the situation:

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issu...t2002/chem.htm

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Phosphate certainly can adsorb onto calcium carbonate surfaces. That process can make reducing phospahte slower as it acts as a reservoir. But if you do not have a phosphate or algae problem, I wouldn't worry about it.

[topmav1]

I recently took down my 46 bow for about 1 month. At that time I took advantage and did a semi cooking on the rocks. They were in a tub in the dark for about 1 month. I had all kinds of cyano or diatoms or brown algae ...etc... on my rock. I started the tank up again about a week ago. The rock looked ok and all was good. Now I am starting to see more brown alage on the rocks again. I cant believe its back. Can it be my lights?
Ammonia = .25-.5
Nitrate = 0
ph = 8.8 !!!
Ca = not measured yet
Alk = no test kit yet.

I bought new sand (not live)...

How is this happening again??!
I am going to cut my lights for a while and try to treat the tank...What can I do to get rid of this???

[topmav1]

Sorry, just measure ph again and it seems to be ok...8.0-8.2 but still the brown algae is a problem.

[topmav1]

I only noticed now that the brown algae has invaded the sand bed as well...sorry for all the messages but i hate to see this come back.

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

I'd focus on nutrient limitation in the running aquarium. I prefer skimming and growing macroalgae. GFO (iron based phosphate binders) may be a good option in high algae conditions.