What valve to control Ca reactor effluent?

Easily Distracted · #1 06/29/2004, 09:09 AM

What valve are you guys using on your Calcium reactors to control your effluent drip rate? Also, where is it located in-line?

FYI-My reactor does not use a dedicated pump to exchange water. It uses pressure from the return. It's not super high pressure, but enough to make a good, steady stream when fully open. I'm just using a JG valve at the moment.

Also, I notice that when my CO2 solenoid opens after being shut off over night, the CO2 comes out much faster than where I had it set when it shut off. I'm talking 1 or 2 bubbles/sec before hand to a steady stream of bubbles afterward. I then have to readjust the needle valve quickly. I have another precision needle valve I'm going to swap out to see if it makes a difference, but has anyone else experienced this problem?

Vinny Kreyling · #2 06/29/2004, 09:28 AM

John, I don't know why you shut your reactor down @ night. I understood they were to run 24/365. I had a lot of problems trying to get the "right drip" on my unit so I am resigned to a faster than specified drip. Enough so it will not stop by itself after time. Calcium is on the rise so I guess it's OK. Drip valve is only a cheap plastic piece(not even waterproof) supplied with unit. I think any valve would do the job. I located the valve close to the base of the unit near the end of the drip line. Vinny

JB NY · #3 06/29/2004, 09:54 AM

Mine uses a mini gate valve. I've used the john guest ball valves and really disliked them on a ca reactor. Not sure where to buy the mini gate valves online. I needed another one a year ago and Country Critters ordered me one from MTC.

Also, I find the after the solenoid turns on the CO2, flow to the reactor is a little faster for a minute or two. I think there is a just a little extra pressure that builds up and takes a little while to drop back to normal. I don't adjust anything as it sorts itself out in a minute or two.

Easily Distracted · #4 06/29/2004, 10:25 AM

Thanks guys.
I leave the effluent running 24/7, it's just hard to dial in. I've done the same as Vinny with regard to resorting to running it faster than suggested.
The CO2 I have hooked up to my aquacontroller. I want it to turn the CO2 on and off according to the tank pH. I have a second pH monitor in the effluent to try to dial in the pH of the reactor to a steady 6.8-6.9 with the CO2 on. Works in thoery, anyway.
I'm gonna try the other needle valve. I've sat nervously for a several minutes after kicking on the solenoid while the CO2 streams out and the effluent pH drops to 6.12 with no slow down on the bubbles and a media melt-down waiting to happen.

trmills · #5 06/29/2004, 12:27 PM

Try this thread for more info:

http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...hreadid=391165

-Terry

lmuller1 · #6 07/01/2004, 10:09 PM

My reactor came with a pinch valve that worked ok for a while, but became clogged and lost a lot of its adjustment after my messing with it over time.
Mcmaster looks like they have needle valves that would do the job better. SMC (USplastic. com) also has some.
I have used a cheapy plastic needle valve for the slow drip gas discharge line and it also clogs up after a day.
Other reefers like the JG valve, but that is a ball valve setup and I wouldn't think it would have the adjustability for low drip rate.
Also read about using a paristaltic pump to control drip by the incoming flow rate. Will have to research that more. If that is the trick set up it would totally eliminate the clogging valve problem.

Rebels23 · #7 07/12/2004, 04:56 PM

Hey John,

I've been battling this same problem for months. I've tried all types of solutions. I've gotten it to the point where I only need to adjust it every 4 days. I am throwing the flag in and I think I will be getting myself a peristaltic pump soon.

Rebels23

Easily Distracted · #8 07/12/2004, 05:24 PM

I have gotten it to the point of a consistent, fast drip. I might just run my bubble count a little higher to maintain the proper pH in the reactor. I have the controller hooked up to a pH meter in the main tank return flow, so it will probably shut the CO2 off a little more frequently when maintaining the tank pH.

MIKE NY · #9 07/12/2004, 08:26 PM

It took me almost two weeks to get everything to acceptable levels and I still have to check it. Tank PH at night is 7.9 and during the day it's 8.1. The effleunt rate is 80ml per min with a PH of 6.7 and a bubble count of 75 per min. I think the trick is to have good valves on the CO2 and effluent to maintain consistantency.

lmuller1 · #10 07/13/2004, 07:10 AM

I invested in a good precision valve from Marine Depot and that helped to allow adjustment to the CO2 and maintain it. Being a metal valve it isn't suitable for the effluent.
So I bought a couple of plastic needle valves from USPlastics that hopefully will regulate the drip better.
Sounds like a lot of people have this problem.

trmills · #11 07/13/2004, 07:59 AM

I posted earlier that I placed a drip irrigation emitter on the end of the effluent line. This was working good, but didn't provide very much adjustment.

On July 1, I was at Lowe's I picked-up a package of adjustable drip emitters (nozzles). I still have the SMC valve at the reactor, but I put this small adjustable drip valve on the end of the line as it drips into my skimmer output. I am using a Little Giant 40 for my sump return and I tee off of that to feed the reactor. I still adjust the SMC valve as I think it acts like a pressure/flow reducing valve prior to the adjustable drip valve. The effluent drip has been extremely steady. This is just something I am currently using/testing that I thought I'd throw out there.

-Terry