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#1
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Where should I go from here.
I am new to saltwater and have started a new tank and would like input on where to head.
The tank goal is a mini reef I have a 125g tank 140lbs of Aragonite substrate 75 Lbs Live Rock 50 Lbs Other Rock 2 30" Lites with basic Flourescent with 10K and 50.50 bulbs in each Amaricle PL-2000 Wet Drive with Protien Skimmer Rio 2500+ pump for wetdry 2 - Rio 1700 PH for water circulation Tank is cycled with 3 FireFish, 2 Clowns, 16 Hermits, Tons of bristle worms, 2 britle stars (Very Small) and one very small star fish that was a hitchiker. SG = 1.0225 Temp = 76 PH = 8.3, Alk = 8.9, Hard = 490 Amon = 0, Nitrite = 0, Nitrate = 10 Copper = 0 1. Is the wet dry good enough (14 x 16 X 22) 2. Is that enough Live Rock 3. Do I need a refugium 4. Is the SG ok for soft corals 5. Is T5's ok for soft corals or do I need VHO. I don't want to do MH. Can I use the standard lights for any corals at all. 6. What is a good order to add stuff. All fish first, Some corals then fish..... My issue is that my LFS sold me all the equiptment and then says, do what you want. I am well read on FOWLR and setup for a Reef, but most of the inforamtion I read is in conflict with what I read here or other books or lacks the detail of what I read here. Thanks in advance for any advice. |
#2
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Does the wet/dry have bioballs?
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#3
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I would definetly go with a refugium. Will keep your parameters in check especially your Phosphate.
SG should be around 1.025 Use RO/DI water only T5 are fine. Standard lights won't work. Add corals once your tank has been up for a few months and your water parameters are consistant. Corals need good water. |
#4
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1. Yes the sump will work, but bigger is always better, Maybe a little project down the road.
2. You have enough rock for filtration, unless you want more. 3.You dont have to have one, but they do help with the removal of Phosphates,Nitrate, Excess proteins/nutrients 4.I think you mean 1.025, yes that is perfect for any coral specimen. 5.T5's work very well, even for sps etc. 6. Stocking the tank is all your choice, you can add corals, or fish first. Just make sure when adding fish you add them slowly in the beginning for a few months to make sure you can keep the bacteria stabilized or you can overload the system and create a mini cycle. Corals wont be a problem when adding. |
#5
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The wet dry does have bio balls.
I am slowly raising the SG up. Will set my goal at 1.025 Only use RO water, don't have a DI unit. Thanks for the input. |
#6
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I agree with colotl; your SG should be bumped up, corals prefer a bit higher salinity. I would also try to keep your temp between 79-81 degrees. I'd stray from sand sifting stars and fish, as they can disturb the sandbed with a bit too much enthusiasm, and go with nassarius snails.
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-Jeremy "Quidquid latine dictum sit, altum viditur" |
#7
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I would slowly get rid of the bioballs as they can cause nitrate problems.
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#8
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Blown 346, Thanks for the input.. I did mean 1.0225 i will raise.
Guess i will start looking for the lights now. I can build my own sump. I think one around 16d x 24w x 18t and attach to the wet dry. Make the refugium in there. I will put a second pump around 900gph to it and have 2 overflows. One feeding the wetdry and the other feeding the new sump. But this is a way off. |
#9
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The DI will take all chemical and impurities out of the water.
Impurities will gave you algae problems in the future. Big headaches from what I read |
#10
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Most people get results...I seem to have consequences |
#11
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How old is this tank?
You also have alot of rock in there. Ill bet you have many low or no flow areas around the rock where waste , food , and other debris collects causing high nitrates. A pic would be great.
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Lance H. |
#12
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Thanks for the reply AVI
Just a note, my wet dry is the 14 x 16 X 22. My refugium will be 14d x 17t x 24w. I am in the middle of making it from acrylic. I decided on T5's for some light (Color) and then Compacts for the corals health. I would like to get 2 watts per gallon, but T5's only come in 42wat for a 36" unit. I would use 2 of those only giving my 84. After looking online for VHO's, I think the transformers just don't fit where my tank is. The idea of SG seems to be an issue: I live where it is 6000 feet above sea level (Denver Colorado). At this altitude, it's harder to remove gas and oxygenate the water (so I am told). To offset this, it' common at our LFS (Reef / saltwater ones) to run lower temps and SG to offset this. I went to 2 today and ask them to test my water, then to test their SG. Both were between 1.23 and 1.235. This makes it difficult to know which is really best. I would like to see if anyone in the Rockies can validate this information or am I just full of it. The rock I am using other than live rock is Leach Rock. It comes from quarries in Utah. (Once was an ocean. lol) I think for now I am going to stick with fish I can buy locally due to the weather. Don't want to get frozen fish sticks. It's not uncommon for cargo to be bumped for passenger’s flights this time of year. Again, Thanks for your input. Each response helps me fill in the gaps a little more so I can hopefully avoid any ******* mistakes. |
#13
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Make sure your T5's have individual reflectors in order to benifit there high light output. The grim reefer has alot of info on lights. Check out his threads.
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#14
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DemonSP
Thanks for your post. The tank was setup 11/26/07 or there abouts. here are 4 images, my filter, and the tank in 3 peices: |
#15
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Grim Reefer is on my list. Got his name from katyttt. I will send him a PM with my objectives. I think he might even live close enough that if he has some, I could pick them up. Will See..
Thanks |
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