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  #1  
Old 12/08/2007, 08:47 PM
boydx6 boydx6 is offline
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Finally started my 180 build

I finally started building the stand for my 180. It has an oversized stand with a beer ledge on the front and sides. There is a 6 in ledge in back for the return plumbing. I will be using all 4 holes in the overflows as drains. The bottom of the tank will be 43 in. I still haven't decided what I will skin it yet. The whole stand was built around the sump. Don't laugh, I got a good deal on the sump but it is the same width as the tank so it created build issues. brucem came by today and we knocked it out. Now the fun part begins. I will post pics soon.
  #2  
Old 12/08/2007, 08:54 PM
boydx6 boydx6 is offline
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  #3  
Old 12/08/2007, 08:56 PM
boydx6 boydx6 is offline
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  #4  
Old 12/08/2007, 08:57 PM
boydx6 boydx6 is offline
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the beer ledge works


  #5  
Old 12/08/2007, 09:00 PM
boydx6 boydx6 is offline
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a little pic of the madness

  #6  
Old 12/08/2007, 09:03 PM
boydx6 boydx6 is offline
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I plan to either use granite or corian to cover the ledge and hide the tank trim. Anyone have any ideas on that?
  #7  
Old 12/08/2007, 10:19 PM
mflamb mflamb is offline
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Love the beer ledge!!! It's looking great so far.
I'm doing that on my tank with granite.
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  #8  
Old 12/08/2007, 10:26 PM
boydx6 boydx6 is offline
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Thanks Mike
  #9  
Old 12/09/2007, 11:44 AM
ReefArtist ReefArtist is offline
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Alright Stephen! Looking good and now your garage and driveway looks like mine . Yes, love the ledge and I also have one planned but not sure what material I'll be going with.

Congratulations and it looks like a great start!
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  #10  
Old 12/09/2007, 11:48 AM
checkinhawk checkinhawk is offline
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off to a great start Stephen,the extra space you guys built into the rear of the stand,is that for plumbing to run?
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  #11  
Old 12/09/2007, 01:07 PM
boydx6 boydx6 is offline
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Thats right Chris, I wanted the stand to be against the wall to keep little fingers from playing with the wires and plumbing.
  #12  
Old 12/09/2007, 01:18 PM
ycnibrc ycnibrc is offline
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looking good....you have 3 good helper there....:-)
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  #13  
Old 12/09/2007, 01:39 PM
boydx6 boydx6 is offline
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Anthony, LOL, if you only knew how much help they were.
  #14  
Old 12/09/2007, 01:49 PM
wvarnado wvarnado is offline
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boydx6
Looking good. Like the helpers. You can never have enough help.
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  #15  
Old 12/09/2007, 04:19 PM
ReefArtist ReefArtist is offline
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Stephen,
just a note and wanted to make sure you did this - so I'll ask .
Do you or are you going to put small 2x4's or 2x6's under the board that holds the sump up off the ground? Also might put one or two feet in the middle for a little support also - the tensile strength of wood is VERY high but - you know me - "Build them big and tough or not at all" LOL!

Just making sure because I know you don't want to get any water on that floor! Looks great!
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  #16  
Old 12/09/2007, 04:23 PM
daywn daywn is offline
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looks like your off to a good start.
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  #17  
Old 12/09/2007, 04:25 PM
ycnibrc ycnibrc is offline
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by putting the pump back behind the sum is that goning to give you a problem to service it in the future since you will have the tank against the wall.
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I will trade my golf swing for your tyree frag.
  #18  
Old 12/09/2007, 04:49 PM
boydx6 boydx6 is offline
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Carol, this is what is under the plywood on the bottom.


Anthony, I will have doors on the sides as well as the front. It may be tight getting there but there is room. There is enough room above the sump that I could get to the pumps that way as well. There is about 20 inches of room from the top of the sump to the bottom of the tank. I am trying to plan for the worst but anyone that has been in the hobby for a while knows that we don't think of everything. Keep the questions and ideas coming so I can make any needed changes before it is too late.
  #19  
Old 12/09/2007, 05:10 PM
ycnibrc ycnibrc is offline
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what type of flow do you consider for your tank close loop or power head?close loop then you need to plan out more for efficient plumbing with power head then you don't have to worry about plumbing. I have both CL and power head in my tank and if I have to do it again I will go with power head only since the more plumbing you have the more chance of leak in the future.
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  #20  
Old 12/09/2007, 05:17 PM
boydx6 boydx6 is offline
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I have a Dart for the return, it will come over the back with at least 4 outlets. I have a Tunze 6100 and a wavebox for additional flow in the tank. Hopefully that will be enough. The Iwaki in the pic is for my skimmer.
  #21  
Old 12/09/2007, 06:45 PM
ReefArtist ReefArtist is offline
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So the strength of the screws and glue is what will be holding up the sump - is that correct? It most likely will hold without any issues but you could cut a few small pieces to fit right under the bottom frame - then you're 100% sure. But I really don't think it will sag much - really looks good .
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  #22  
Old 12/09/2007, 07:10 PM
boydx6 boydx6 is offline
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Carol, I think I do not understand what you are asking. I have 3 2x4's going from back to front supporting the plywood/sump as well as the frame on all 4 sides. Are you saying that I need something to go from the floor up to the bottom of the plywood under the sump? If so, how many do you think I need?
  #23  
Old 12/09/2007, 07:22 PM
ReefArtist ReefArtist is offline
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I don't see anything supporting the frame of the sump - except the nails/glue that is holding it to the 2x4's. I'd just fit a 2x4 from the floor to under the frame on each corner. On the center I'd put one on the back and then one under the center brace. This would give it 100% support and you would have NO worries of the sump ever coming through - not that it would but wood rots really fast with saltwater. I actually have this problem with my 65g sump. It leaked for a while and now it has a definite sway to it.
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  #24  
Old 12/09/2007, 07:39 PM
boydx6 boydx6 is offline
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ok, now I understand what you are saying.
  #25  
Old 12/09/2007, 07:54 PM
mflamb mflamb is offline
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Good eye Carol! That is an important thing to add.
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