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#51
11/16/2007, 10:23 AM
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Everyone keeps saying you need to starve the shrimp first. I bet it does not matter as they are opportunist feeders.
They are always looking for food no matter how much they are fed, plus it seems they can never get enough feedings from us anyway. So given the chance to eat these bugs, I believe they will. Now that I removed all of my Monti Caps and opened the areas up, the shrimp were able to get it the areas they could not reach before. The same thing with the Sixline Wrasse. I have left some test pieces of branching Montis in my tanks as well as a small cap and have seen the population of bad bugs drop tremendously. Could be the Wrasse, shrimp or starvation or a combo of all. As I said in my last post, I have not seen any bad bugs lately, but that does not mean they are not there. Could be a few left in the rock work, but over time I'm hoping they turn into a midnight snack. As long as my test pieces stay clean and healthy I feel good about it. I will add about 10 or so more peps to may main tank later today just in case. I have a ton of them in my sump and they are easy to catch when I feed them. I'll call these shrimp "Insurance Policies" just in case they work. 
__________________
See my homepage at the top for pics of my reef! Updated June 7, 2006 |
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#52
11/16/2007, 10:45 AM
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Does anyone know where to get this shrimp. I've checked a few online stores with no luck.
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When there's nothing to do to you aquarium, you don't have a hobby.... You have a piece of furniture! |
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#54
11/16/2007, 12:16 PM
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I would use camel shrimp... I have a ton of pepps and they are much more seclusive then camels.
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#55
11/16/2007, 12:20 PM
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my idea of an SPS QT tank just changed Drastically, i wonder if you had one tank with camel shrimp and one tank with peppermint shrimp like Gasman said if that would assure getting all pests?
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#56
11/16/2007, 12:24 PM
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Def would be a good idea. I for sure know that is Germany the tests are being done with Camels aka dancing shrimp though not pepps.
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#57
11/16/2007, 12:26 PM
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Quote:
and just leave new corals in there for a couple weeks after you get them that way the camels wiill get all of them. |
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#58
11/16/2007, 12:28 PM
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They are noticing after more then 1 hr with the camels they have noting them eating sps flesh. I would not keep them in that long and def keep an eye out while they are in there. Them eating some flesh would not bother me at all at least I know they are cleaning the coral.
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#59
11/16/2007, 01:51 PM
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I've been helping a friend of mine with his monti eating nudi and acro eating flat worm problem. His nudis were not small at all and very, very aggressive. In fact they were able to kill an entire colony the size of the palm of your hand in less than 1 week. His nudi's were very visible ranging in size from 1/8" to maybe 3/16" long. I recently read a thread that said that the monti eating nudis was very small and best viewed with a magnifying glass (http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...t=praziquantel). Perhaps there are many different species but the ones he had are nothing like the guy on the above thread described.
We are still in the process of dipping and quarantine and I will give a very detailed report once we have completed the process. I will quickly say we elected to use a stronger concentration with a shorter dip time than I read about in the above referenced thread and it appears to have been very successful. We mixed 2 ml of PraziPro per liter of water for the Acro eating flat worms and dipped them for only 15 minutes. Basically the flat worms began to fall off and die with in 5 minutes or so and within the 15 minute dip time there was almost no movement at all of any of the flat worms in the dip bowl. (As a side note we found it very helpful to use a clear glass bowl placed on a black background so you could see what was going on much easier) The acros handled the dip very well with minimal discoloration (unlike the iodine solutions we tried). Almost all of the acros showed good polyp extension with in a day of the dip. One week after the dip we dipped again and we were astounded to again find hundreds of flat worms. We have now gone to a dipping the corals ever other day for the past week. Last night we did our 3rd dipping and we saw NO flat worms. ZERO. Although we do see some of the corals are beginning to show signs of stress. I’m not sure if it is due to the flat worms or the treatment, however most pieces are doing well with very good polyp extension. The nudis appear to be a much tougher kill. For them we worked our way up to a concentration of 5ml per liter of water. Again the montis appear to handle the dip very well with little discoloration, at least initially. Our first attempt we used the same concentration and duration on the nudis as we did the flat worms which in hindsight was not a good move. One week after the initial treatment we still had nudis. Lots of nudis. We adopted the same procedure for the montis as we did the acros and last night on the 3rd dip of the week we saw NO nudis. We are going to dip every thing one more time this Saturday. I’ll provide a more depth discussion once we are 100% certain we have eliminated all of the problems. We suspect that perhaps the treatment did not kill the eggs and we waited too long in between dips thus allowing the eggs to hatch and reestablish themselves. The most important thing I have learned in this entire process is............. DIP & Quarantine EVERYTHING. With way more than 100 acros and monti I never want to go through what he has gone through. I'm with you GSMguy. After reading this thread I have decide to set up a "cleaner" quarantine tank. With well over 100 acros and montis I'm not going to take a chance. In fact maybe it is a good idea to just periodically place pieces from your main tank into a "cleaner" tank for a few minutes just in case.
__________________
When there's nothing to do to you aquarium, you don't have a hobby.... You have a piece of furniture! |
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#60
11/16/2007, 02:24 PM
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you could have 2 QT's to work best. One would be the camel shrimp QT. The other be a regular QT so that your tank would go through the preditors life cycle
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#61
11/16/2007, 02:41 PM
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I just think alot of people will become complacent thinking this is a catch all. They will stop agressively treating and proper incoming dips etc. to make sure they don't have it. They idea is to make sure you don't get them in the first place.
The camel shrimps will NOT be a safety net. Not to mention they will eat the tissue off the acroporids as well. Just because you have cleaner shrimp, doesn't mean you don't have to worry about ich. Just because you have a condom on doesn't mean you wont get burnt. I am not knocking the new information, I am just a bit skeptical. If you are not skeptical then you are just plain callow. |
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#62
11/16/2007, 03:22 PM
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Quote:
thus my previous comment of using all of our available tools. |
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#63
11/16/2007, 03:23 PM
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I'm skeptical as well. But at this point there is not real way of treating AEFW. So it would be great if this was a way of working with a QT tank to ensure your tank of acros doesn't get eaten up.
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-Joe |
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#65
11/16/2007, 03:39 PM
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Quote:
Doesn't everyone just have their tanks full or acroporids? 
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-Joe |
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#66
11/16/2007, 05:17 PM
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Quote:
Now who has some AEFW to volunteer? Anyone wanna admit it?
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#68
11/16/2007, 10:23 PM
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If the shrimp do as stated, then a combined treatment may work even better if the shrimp don't fully take care of the AEFWs. One can "clean" the coral with shrimp. Place it in quarentine to strengthen, then dip in TMPCC (or the like). Repeat the sequence as needed. The shrimp treatment between chemical treatments would likely be much easier on the coral.
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