Coral Advice - Page 2

capn_hylinur · #26 10/29/2007, 08:31 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by samb
This is my first post, although I've been lurking for over 2 months. I've learned so much (especially all the mistakes I've made LOL.)

Your situation is very similar to mine a month ago. The LFS that I naively relied on to get me set up in this hobby did a great job of selling me a lot of equipment but was contrary to everything I've learned lurking on RC.

I have a 60g AGA, no sump, Rena XP3 canister filter. The LFS assured me that a Coralife 2X 65w PC strip light would be more than adequate for softies and some LPSs. They also set me up with 1 maxijet 600 and 1 maxijet 1200 and said this would be more than enough flow.

Like you my corals were not doing very well. My nitrates levels were between 10-20ppm.

After reading countless threads, I came to the conclusion that I did not have enough lighting or flow for most of my corals. The canister filter was also contributing to the high nitrate levels.

I upgraded my lights with a Current retrofit kit with 8X 65w of PC lighting (I plan on switching to T5HO when I upgrade in 6 months to a 125g)

I replaced the maxijets with two Hydor Koralia 4s (absolutely love them.)

I removed all the ceramic rings (over a two week period) and all but two of the sponge filters from the XP3 cannister filter. I placed some live rock in one of the compartments and I run carbon and GFO in the other compartments. I do weekly 8 gallon water changes and clean my canister filter with each water change. This is especially important if you plan on keeping sponge filters in the cannister as they trap a lot of detritus.

After doing all this, my corals have done very well and my nitrates are between 0-5 (I'll be getting some chaeto and place in the DT until I upgrade and have a proper setup with a sump and refugium). I've added a number of corals over the last two weeks, and they are all doing very well.

As I stated earlier, I've made a lot of mistakes but am learning and have found work-arounds due to a less than ideal setup by listening to all the wise and experienced reefers here on RC (THANKS EVERYONE).

Hope this helps...good luck in this very addictive hobby.

P.S. I also signed up as a premium member for two reasons. Although I have read a lot of books, the continuing education that RC provides is a great value for the $24/year membership. Secondly, for a newbie, the ability to quickly use the search feature has been very helpful.

I echo your thoughts----- but don't feel you have to lurk, even as as a new reefer---the more you actively participate the more you learn. The guys on Reef Central--the moderators ect-- are very tactful in explaining misconceptions and guiding you in the correct methods to use.
And by posting you pick up alot of new reefing buddies.

If this was your first posting as stated then:

[welcome]

bhenderson79 · #27 10/29/2007, 11:53 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by capn_hylinur
live rock in the cansister filter---would depend on the flow in judging how useful----live rock is more effective in a sump where you can baffle off a reduced flow area for the live rock and the bacteria can congregate without being swept away.

The most effective use of a canister filter would be to remove everything and run carbon in it.

yeah, after all this advice i definitely plan to remove the polyfill, ceramic rings, and sponges from my canisters. is there any substitute for those things to catch larger particles or should i just not worry about it in the reef?

capn_hylinur · #28 10/29/2007, 01:36 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by bhenderson79
yeah, after all this advice i definitely plan to remove the polyfill, ceramic rings, and sponges from my canisters. is there any substitute for those things to catch larger particles or should i just not worry about it in the reef?

running a filter sock somehow--I would have to see a pic of your setup to answer this fully
this is why it would be too your advantage to set up a sump:

capn_hylinur · #29 10/29/2007, 01:39 PM

the sump has a filter sock on the right to remove the bigger particles---the protein skimmer removes alot of the dissolved organic compounds and
the carbon and phosban help in removing particles

all three help in the clarity of the water:

rustybucket145 · #30 10/29/2007, 01:45 PM

Guidance I'd give someone in your situation....

Sell the cannister filters. They are junk for what you're trying to accomplish. If the LFS sold them to you they were either just trying to turn a quick buck or honestly didn't know what they were talking about.

You need MUCH more flow. I'd shoot for AT LEAST 1000gph in a 75gal. I'd recommend against powerheads and lean more toward something like a Maxi-Jet Modified pump (if you're handy) and money is a concern. If money isn't tight or too much of a concern go for some Tunzes or similar propeller driven powerhead.

FUGE!! You MUST have fuge of some sort, the larger the better but any fuge is better than no fuge. Learn how to drill your tank, it's not hard. Or if you don't feel right about it pay someone to do it.

Your lights are fine for right now for what you have. Stay away from high light corals and you'll be fine for the moment. If down the road you want to expand your capacity look at T5's or Metal Halides.

and no offense to the posters above.... Don't worry about the filter sock either... they're junk too.

KISS!!! Keep It Simple Stupid!!!

bhenderson79 · #31 10/29/2007, 07:15 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by rustybucket145
Guidance I'd give someone in your situation....

Sell the cannister filters. They are junk for what you're trying to accomplish. If the LFS sold them to you they were either just trying to turn a quick buck or honestly didn't know what they were talking about.

My LFS definitely wouldn't do that - in fact, they had the opportunity to sell me new filters and didn't try to push anything on me. The canisters I'm using are holdovers from when this 75 gallon tank was set up for freshwater. I gave away the rest of my freshwater fish to a friend in January and set the tank back up as a saltwater tank in February. When I stopped by the LFS to go over the plan, they didn't try to sell me anything as an alternative to the canisters. I suppose I wish they had!

capn_hylinur · #32 10/30/2007, 09:40 AM

Quote:

[i]

and no offense to the posters above.... Don't worry about the filter sock either... they're junk too.

KISS!!! Keep It Simple Stupid!!! [/B]

I am definetly not offended--but very curious cause I am always looking for improvements in my filtration system---

Why would you say filter socks are junk?

cd77 · #33 10/30/2007, 10:07 AM

Yes -- I'm curious as well. What would you advise someone use for filtering the particles/detritus that fall to the sump?

rickyscuba · #34 10/31/2007, 12:05 PM

I dont think the nitrates are the issue there.... 10-20 is not too high for that type of corals. Is not the best level of trates but not critical. I think is a matter of flow and light.

Do several water changes to improve water quality, add powerheads (koralias, tunze) and set the skimmer wetter. Dont forget to change your t12 to something like pc or t5.

.02

capn_hylinur · #35 10/31/2007, 01:08 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by cd77
Yes -- I'm curious as well. What would you advise someone use for filtering the particles/detritus that fall to the sump?

Chris:
Since the poster is not aware or prepared to defend their statment I posted this on another thread:

http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...4#post11089304

capn_hylinur · #36 10/31/2007, 01:09 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by rickyscuba
I dont think the nitrates are the issue there.... 10-20 is not too high for that type of corals. Is not the best level of trates but not critical. I think is a matter of flow and light.

Do several water changes to improve water quality, add powerheads (koralias, tunze) and set the skimmer wetter. Dont forget to change your t12 to something like pc or t5.

.02

flow--food--light ---in that order --its been debated on this thread:

http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...4#post11089304