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  #476  
Old 10/24/2007, 10:27 PM
vance.110 vance.110 is offline
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Hey grim,
Sorry if this has been asked but I've been looking for so long now I don't know where I am! I have 75G mixed reef mainly LPS and Softies, but a few SPS up high. Color in the SPS is dark. I want to go from my current setup of 4 VHO URIs 2 Whites 2 Blues on an IC660 without reflectors to t-5 with individual reflectors IC or comparable. Would this be sufficient if I wanted to continue with my current SPS and maybe add a few more? Also I think the look is too yellow now, any suggestions on getting it to the 15-20K look? Thanks you've been a big help here and with you red house!
  #477  
Old 10/24/2007, 11:43 PM
The Grim Reefer The Grim Reefer is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by stephensturman
are the 48" 54w retrokits from hellolights.com any good? i will be puting them on a 90g aga rr that will be mainley sps dominated but a few lps in the darker spots! please let me know!
The lamp selection isnt great at Hellolights. I'd do reefgeeks and spend the extra 2 bux a reflector to upgrade to the Ice Cap reflector.
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Last year the SEC was the strongest conference but overrated. This year they were just overrated.
  #478  
Old 10/24/2007, 11:59 PM
The Grim Reefer The Grim Reefer is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by vance.110
Hey grim,
Sorry if this has been asked but I've been looking for so long now I don't know where I am! I have 75G mixed reef mainly LPS and Softies, but a few SPS up high. Color in the SPS is dark. I want to go from my current setup of 4 VHO URIs 2 Whites 2 Blues on an IC660 without reflectors to t-5 with individual reflectors IC or comparable. Would this be sufficient if I wanted to continue with my current SPS and maybe add a few more? Also I think the look is too yellow now, any suggestions on getting it to the 15-20K look? Thanks you've been a big help here and with you red house!
4 lamps will be plenty for sps up on the rocks. For lamp try

Front
ATI Blue Plus
UVL Super Actinic
UVL Aquasun
ATI Blue Plus
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Grim tells it like it is.
Last year the SEC was the strongest conference but overrated. This year they were just overrated.
  #479  
Old 10/25/2007, 12:38 AM
Sparkss Sparkss is offline
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I wanted to know what the best reflector distance from the T5 bulb was (for those that separately mount the reflectors and don't use the clips). I do have the clips and was considering putting them on to guage the distance and adjust the reflectors, but wanted to be sure that would be optimal (IE: or that the clips merely put the reflectors off as far as their design would allow and still hold the reflector upright, but not far enough to be truly "optimal").

also, I have read about T5s being enough for sPS up on rocks, etc. Most of them have the lamps 4" off of the water (more or less) and the corals up to 18" - 20" down from the waterline. Would it be fair to say that 22" - 24" from the bulbs is as far down as an SPS can go and still receive enough light to sustain it ? Taking into account that the bulbs were run off of an IC ballast, using IC an IC SLR and were 80 W ATI AquaBlue Plus bulbs. Or am I really off base with my numbers ?

I also wanted to clarify that the best color/par bulb for stand alone running is still the ATI AquaBlue Plus bulb ? Or is there another with a crisp white/blue color and good PAR ? Would it be better to run two 3' bulbs end to end than the one 5' bulb ? (I don't need the extra 1' linear coverage, but am looking for more penetration.)

I am trying to use T5s to supplement our MHs, but not for color, more for filling in dark areas and lighting the front side of several colonies that are towards the front of our tank.

Thanks in advance for time spent answering my questions (and likely setting me straight on a thing or two )
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  #480  
Old 10/25/2007, 02:36 AM
The Grim Reefer The Grim Reefer is offline
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If you are going for PAR only the Aquablue is a good choice. Using the clip to measure the distance from the lamp to the reflector would be good cause I aint gotta clue about that.

If you are overdriving 80 watt lamps I would say most SPS would be good 16" (12" of water 4" of air)down for sure and montis a bit lower.
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Last year the SEC was the strongest conference but overrated. This year they were just overrated.
  #481  
Old 10/25/2007, 06:19 AM
funlap funlap is offline
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http://www.1000bulbs.com/T12-Fluorescent-Ballast/

Would these ballasts work to run ur standard 48 in 110 watt uri bulbs???? Any help would be great. thanx
  #482  
Old 10/25/2007, 06:40 AM
The Grim Reefer The Grim Reefer is offline
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The Worhorse 7 can run 2 VHO lamps but they are a tad underdriven.
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Last year the SEC was the strongest conference but overrated. This year they were just overrated.
  #483  
Old 10/25/2007, 06:52 AM
funlap funlap is offline
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thanx....Do you think saving the extra money compensates for the fact that it's a tad underdriven.
  #484  
Old 10/25/2007, 09:30 AM
Sparkss Sparkss is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by The Grim Reefer
If you are going for PAR only the Aquablue is a good choice. Using the clip to measure the distance from the lamp to the reflector would be good cause I aint gotta clue about that.

If you are overdriving 80 watt lamps I would say most SPS would be good 16" (12" of water 4" of air)down for sure and montis a bit lower.
Thanks Grim, I think that is where I was off a bit. The bulbs are 9" above the water (in the ligthing rack with the MHs) and the corals were about 9" down below the water line. So I either need to lower the lamps at least 2" or raise the corals that much. Unfortunately neither of those is an option, due to structural reasons and the door that swings open to allow access to the top of the tank. Any other ideas about how to overcome this "little" problem ? Would putting two 3' bulbs give better penetration ? (or one 3' over the particular corals ?). I am trying to take on the mindest of lighting the rocakwork/corals and not just lighting the tank.

Thanks again
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  #485  
Old 10/25/2007, 05:23 PM
The Grim Reefer The Grim Reefer is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by funlap
thanx....Do you think saving the extra money compensates for the fact that it's a tad underdriven.
Probably. Especially if you use it for actinics.
__________________
Grim tells it like it is.
Last year the SEC was the strongest conference but overrated. This year they were just overrated.
  #486  
Old 10/25/2007, 05:27 PM
The Grim Reefer The Grim Reefer is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sparkss
Thanks Grim, I think that is where I was off a bit. The bulbs are 9" above the water (in the ligthing rack with the MHs) and the corals were about 9" down below the water line. So I either need to lower the lamps at least 2" or raise the corals that much. Unfortunately neither of those is an option, due to structural reasons and the door that swings open to allow access to the top of the tank. Any other ideas about how to overcome this "little" problem ? Would putting two 3' bulbs give better penetration ? (or one 3' over the particular corals ?). I am trying to take on the mindest of lighting the rocakwork/corals and not just lighting the tank.

Thanks again
How about mounting the T5's to a thin piece of wood and hang them from chains.
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Grim tells it like it is.
Last year the SEC was the strongest conference but overrated. This year they were just overrated.
  #487  
Old 10/25/2007, 07:01 PM
barjam barjam is offline
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If wood ain't your thing Lowes/Home Depot sell aluminum pretty cheap, you can make frames and mounts pretty easy.
  #488  
Old 10/25/2007, 07:19 PM
The Grim Reefer The Grim Reefer is offline
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Theres also square PVC channeling that would work but I am not sure where to get it.
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Grim tells it like it is.
Last year the SEC was the strongest conference but overrated. This year they were just overrated.
  #489  
Old 10/25/2007, 07:44 PM
carlos_fb carlos_fb is offline
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Hey Grim,

I currently have a 4 x 54 Tek retrofit with SLR reflectors over my 60 gallon SPS tank. A couple of weeks ago I asked you how should I upgrade my lighting and you suggested to get 2 more bulbs instead of overdriving the 4 that I have right now.

Anyway, I was wondering what bulbs would you recommend that would work with the ones that currently have which are:

- ATI Sun Pro
- ATI Blue Plus
- ATI Aquablue Special
- UV Super Actinic

Thanks a lot!
  #490  
Old 10/25/2007, 09:08 PM
Sparkss Sparkss is offline
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we have a full aluminum lighting rack that is on a double motion track. We can move it left or right to remove it from over the tank (for maintenance) and it also moves front to back when we feel like hooking up our light mover. So aluminum is my thing (there is no wood over our tank).

I was actually planning to use coated chains to hang the 1" sqaure stock that the refelctors and endcaps mount to but here is the rub: We have a mesh top over top of our tank. I have a latch system where I can open it from tne front (like a lid) for access to the tank w/o needing to completely remove the screen (the tank foorprint is 4' X 6.5"... that is not the kind of screen you want to be moving more than needed). When I "open" the screen from the front it is just below where the lamps are now, so there is not much more distance that I could lower them. I really only need to light a single 2' rock, so I thought an overdriven 2' or 3' bulb might work for just a little better penetration (and with a 3' one arriving tomorrow from Reef Geek, that was going to be my first try).

Thanks for the suggestions, any more to add (with the new data I provided) ?

Wish me luck
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  #491  
Old 10/25/2007, 09:40 PM
The Grim Reefer The Grim Reefer is offline
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I would add a Blue Plus and GE 6500K Daylight. Should keep you with about the same look you have now.

Quote:
Originally posted by carlos_fb
Hey Grim,

I currently have a 4 x 54 Tek retrofit with SLR reflectors over my 60 gallon SPS tank. A couple of weeks ago I asked you how should I upgrade my lighting and you suggested to get 2 more bulbs instead of overdriving the 4 that I have right now.

Anyway, I was wondering what bulbs would you recommend that would work with the ones that currently have which are:

- ATI Sun Pro
- ATI Blue Plus
- ATI Aquablue Special
- UV Super Actinic

Thanks a lot!
__________________
Grim tells it like it is.
Last year the SEC was the strongest conference but overrated. This year they were just overrated.
  #492  
Old 10/25/2007, 09:48 PM
The Grim Reefer The Grim Reefer is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sparkss
we have a full aluminum lighting rack that is on a double motion track. We can move it left or right to remove it from over the tank (for maintenance) and it also moves front to back when we feel like hooking up our light mover. So aluminum is my thing (there is no wood over our tank).

I was actually planning to use coated chains to hang the 1" sqaure stock that the refelctors and endcaps mount to but here is the rub: We have a mesh top over top of our tank. I have a latch system where I can open it from tne front (like a lid) for access to the tank w/o needing to completely remove the screen (the tank foorprint is 4' X 6.5"... that is not the kind of screen you want to be moving more than needed). When I "open" the screen from the front it is just below where the lamps are now, so there is not much more distance that I could lower them. I really only need to light a single 2' rock, so I thought an overdriven 2' or 3' bulb might work for just a little better penetration (and with a 3' one arriving tomorrow from Reef Geek, that was going to be my first try).

Thanks for the suggestions, any more to add (with the new data I provided) ?

Wish me luck
So get creative. Set up a pully system that will Raise the T5's as you lift the screen If you couldhange the T5's just have hooks or something to hold them up while you access the tank.
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Grim tells it like it is.
Last year the SEC was the strongest conference but overrated. This year they were just overrated.
  #493  
Old 10/25/2007, 09:59 PM
Sparkss Sparkss is offline
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I think that might be my only option. Thanks Grim (and everyone else that chimed in ).
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  #494  
Old 10/26/2007, 12:54 AM
carlos_fb carlos_fb is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by The Grim Reefer
I would add a Blue Plus and GE 6500K Daylight. Should keep you with about the same look you have now.
Thanks for your response Grim. I was thinking that I would like to pop up my red and yellow corals a little.

Should I still get the bulbs that you recommended?
  #495  
Old 10/26/2007, 12:57 AM
The Grim Reefer The Grim Reefer is offline
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You could try the new ATI pro Color lamp. That will pop reds really good, should get yellows too.
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Grim tells it like it is.
Last year the SEC was the strongest conference but overrated. This year they were just overrated.
  #496  
Old 10/26/2007, 03:24 AM
carlos_fb carlos_fb is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Diego, CA
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Quote:
Originally posted by The Grim Reefer
You could try the new ATI pro Color lamp. That will pop reds really good, should get yellows too.
That sounds good, now I have:

- ATI Sun Pro
- ATI Blue Plus
- ATI Aquablue Special
- UV Super Actinic
- ATI Pro Color

What would you pick for the 6th bulb?
  #497  
Old 10/26/2007, 07:28 AM
The Grim Reefer The Grim Reefer is offline
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Another blue plus
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Grim tells it like it is.
Last year the SEC was the strongest conference but overrated. This year they were just overrated.
  #498  
Old 10/26/2007, 11:45 AM
carlos_fb carlos_fb is offline
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Got it, thanks a lot Grim, you rock!
  #499  
Old 10/26/2007, 12:10 PM
vance.110 vance.110 is offline
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Grim thanks for your last responseabout my 75. I have another question concering another tank though. I've built a small acrylic tank 2'x 1'x 6" for frag grow out with a standpipe running to a larger rubbermade sump for increased stability. I have a 2 X24 watt t-5 retro with icecap reflectors. I'm not looking to maximize growth at color's expense, but instead like good color with acceptable growth. Any suggestions for just the 2 bulb setup and how high do youthink I should have the bulbs from the water surface. The racks for the frags will be 1 inch off the bottom, and I can use acrylic or screen to shield some light on lower light corals. Thanks Bill.
  #500  
Old 10/26/2007, 03:56 PM
witelytr witelytr is offline
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grim,

I have taken your suggestion on the 4x39watt for my 30g and was wondering what would be back draw to having a the lichts approx 7" from the water surface to 4". the reason I ask this is that I am trying to make a fixture from wood and it will not have hinges. For maintenance reasons I would like a little more clearance.
 


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