Ocean In A Box's Nano Reef Journal >>>PICS!!!<<<

[Hopeful Reefer]

Remember, your pump is limited in how much water it can return to the tank by the diameter of your returns...so, if you go with 1/2" returns you may end up finding out that the size of the returns effectively throttles back your return pump, just like if you would put a ball valve in and close it partially...

If you have a 1" drain...and 3/4 returns...you can pretty much rest assured that you will have enough flow coming back from your pump to the tank...still put a tru-union ball valve in for cleaning and if absolutely necessary you can throttle it back if needed...you would be sorry if you put in the 1/2" return and that throttled back the pump and you didn't need to...

[Felix1021]

Tagging along for the build...

[Ocean In A Box]

Hopeful Reefer - Wouldn't 1/2 returns actually produce more velocity back into the tank as compare to 3/4?

Felix1021 - Welcome aboard!

[mwoneal]

Ocean in a Box, 1/2" return would produce more pressure (velocity) at the head, but will reduce the volume of water returned to the tank per unit time when compared to the 3/4" return. I'm assuming the goal is to turn over the total tank volume as frequently as possible, in which case 3/4" return would be preferred, with the ball valve installed as Hopeful Reefer indicated for maintenance. HTH!

[Hopeful Reefer]

Thanks Mark...that was almost verbatum the explanation I was gonna give to Matt as well...

[mwoneal]

Sorry for chiming in, feel like I need to share what little knowledge I have to offer when I get a chance!

[Ocean In A Box]

Mark & Jason - THANKS!!!

I don't know if I want more velocity or more turnover...to be honest, I'm not sure how this whole thing's going to "feel" once hooked up for real. I plan on having minimal headloss from the pump in general (Eheim 1260...~600gph) as it will be near to the display cube and not much lower in height than it. Won't be sitting directly on the floor but will be raised up a bit. I'll have one 1" drain near the bottom of the overflow that will be about 23" tall. I plan on using flex tubing to reduce hard angles and turns, among other reasons. I guess I can go with 3/4 returns...loc line. The sump was described few pages back and is approx 20 g. I hope this setup as described will be properly "powered" with the Eheim I've chosen.

I'm considering drilling some additional holes for a small closed loop? Is that crazy on a tank of this size? I'd REALLY love to get away from any powerheads visible in the tank. I only have the one 45mm diamond saw so was thinking of 1" buildheads on those as well but guess I could reduce to smaller closed loop tubing and a small pump to turns some water over in the closed loop.

Appreciate any comments from anyone reading this! Thanks -

[Ocean In A Box]

Tank Parts from local home improvement store...

Ball valves, spa-flex, bathroom fan w/ tubing & duct:

ball valve & fittings 1:

ball valve & fittings 2:


Bathroom ceiling fan (tanks down in basement and I don't want any problems):



mcmaster.com ROCKS...great prices, nicely shipped, fast delivery for just $7...all got here today from mcmaster.com...

Box arrived nicely:


Nicely packed inside:


WHATS INSIDE...clear 1/8 acrylic for doing sump repair noted earlier in the post, black almost 1/4 acylic so I can make custom overflow dam, Weld-On #3, some small brushes to apply, and also a squeeze bottle with needle dispenser for the Weld-On.:



Now need black silicone, bulkheads. and screens/sponge...then need to construct overflow and drill tank. Getting closer to getting this thing going. - Matt

[Hopeful Reefer]

Looks great...you are getting closer...

One suggestion though...since you didn't get tru union ball valves and got regular ones instead...you aren't going to be able to take apart your plumbing later on because it will all be hard plumbed...for example, if your return pump goes out you have to deal with the entire return plumbing to replace the pump...

You can put unions on both sides of the ball valves...this way you can shut off the flow of water, save some of your water, and remove just the section needed for repair work, cleaning or whatever...

Just a though...

[Ocean In A Box]

jason - have link or pic of union or valves described? can't quite picture what u r saying...if pumpwent out why couldn't I close the ball valve I have? tx 4 your help!

[Ocean In A Box]

nevermind...got some unions from store just now...shd be all set. thx.

[Ocean In A Box]

OK...been awhile.
This thread will be more intersting with more pics...will post soon.
I'm going to drill my tank soon, most like this weekend or next:
- 1 drain in the overflow.
- Then just 2 returns over the back corners or perhaps front corners (hidden by canopy).
Also thinking of closed loop...my Q to all of you before I start drilling, is:
- would you drill one drain in the middle, and maybe two return holes thru the back glass at mid-height on each side of the center drain?
- Anyone have any pros/cons on where to place holes for CL's and can speak from experience?
- I also wondered...are there any CONS to having CL's at all?

I'm really looking forward to ZERO powerheads visible in my tank...I Hope the CL is the way to go!

Opinions please & welcomed...

Tx, Matt

[GrandeGixxer]

Matt, for the intake, make sure you don't put it too close to the sandbed. Mine are about 3" above and every once in a while they will pull some sand through. I would to it like you said, but for the return from the sump, I would reccomend going over the top instead of through the back. This will allow you to keep more water in the tank when you shut off the main pump. This will allow you to use more of the sump for actual water volume as well as to get your aquascaping/corals a little higher in the tank. You need to get that thing done so I can come up and have a beer.

[Hopeful Reefer]

I agree with Joe, go over the top/back for the return...the only time I don't do this is when it is a pre-drilled tank with a return coming up through the bottom of the tank through the overflow...

Get some pics in here man!!

[Ocean In A Box]

GrandeGixxer & Hopeful Reefer -

I don't understand yoru reply...but maybe I wasn't really explaining things too well.

1" drain will be in the back glass pane, and be IN the overflow box I'll make out of acrylic; there will be a return split into two 1" returns that would come back into the display tank over the edges...maybe one over the front & one over the back. So this would be turbulence near top of water column.

For the closed loop, was planning on drilling 3 holes for 3/4" bulkheads or spa-type jets for the middle/lower water column turbulence, spaced equally across the back pane of glass. The middle one would be the drain into the closed loop pump, and the other two be returns into the display tank.

Planning to use spa-flex tubing for everything...also the unions & valves, etc pictured in prior posts.

Any opinions then on the number or size of drains/returns, and, placement of drain/returns to main sump in combo with closed loop at about 1/2 point of the back of the tank?

Two sides are viewable, and two sides are facing the rear fishroom so I may change this a little to have two rear facing panes of glass drilled with all these holes...in order to space them most evenly.

Thanks in advance for the inputs on this...don't want to change my mind after I've drilled the holes!!

[Ocean In A Box]

Since I can't seem to drill this tank and fill it with water as soon as I wanted to, I guess these pics will have to do to keep this thread alive! More empty tank pictures, and pictures of the back fishroom starting.

- Matt

BAR 1: BAR 2:

BAR 3: BAR&TANK 4:

BAR&TANK 5: BAR 6:

BAR&TANK 7: BAR&TANK 8:

[Ocean In A Box]

FISHROOM 1: FISHROOM 2:

FISHROOM 3: FISHROOM 4:

FISHROOM 5: FISHROOM 6:

FISHROOM 7...pumps, mags, filters, list goes on...:
FISHROOM 8...one in box is all-in-one Finnex 22g, the other is extra Oceanic 30g cube:

[GrandeGixxer]

Looks awesome Matt. I am not sure that you want to use acrylic for the overflow box. Find a glass shop and see if they have tinted glass. They should be able to cut it to whatever sizes you need and grind the edges.

[Ocean In A Box]

GrandeGixxer -

Thanks! I figure Oceanic and All Glass put out "thousands" of RR tanks with plastic/acrylic overflow boxes siliconed to glass tanks... ?

[puckbs]

if you are using the overflow inside the tank, you will be fine with the acrylic...i have a diy running perfectly with just such an overflow, plus, like you said, all those other aga tanks...lol...plus the water pressure is pushing the overflow against the tank...

sidenote - you really lucked out with that $1/gallon deal...i WISH...um, wanna ship one this way?? lol....good luck with the tank, enjoying tagging along!

[GrandeGixxer]

I just prefer working with glass than acrylic. No worries.

[Felix1021]

can't wait to see it fully stocked...great build

[Ocean In A Box]

Thanks everyone...I can't wait to figure out how to hook up all the plumbing...

I have the sump, all plumbing parts, pump, etc.......I need to drill holes and make overflow (bend acrylic 90 degrees and cut teeth).

I hope to have tank setup soon!

[puckbs]

cut the teeth before you bend...and heat it slowly so it doesn't stretch, i used a mold to insure the whole thing was 90degrees...good luck!

[Ocean In A Box]

NEED PLUMBING HELP ... I'VE NEVER DONE BEFORE ... HOW TO CONNECT EACH & DOES THIS LOOK RIGHT? THANKS IN ADVANCE!!!

PLUMBING, ALL…SUMP TO TANK:
1”DRAIN TO SUMP:
HAD TO REDUCE TO 1” FROM SUMP TO EHEIM 1260:
SUMP TO COUPLING/BALL VALVE:
BALL VALVE/COUPLING TO EHEIM 1260:
EHEIM 1260 TO ¾” COUPLING/BALL VALVE: