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#1
10/02/2007, 08:35 PM
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Kati/Ani ??????????????????
Will the Kati/Ani system work with High CO2 water? my well water has high CO2 and it uses up my DI resin after about 70 gallons and its getting really exspensive.
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PJ Click the Little Red house for my New Tank Build! |
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#5
10/04/2007, 01:21 PM
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I'm surprised that you're getting 70 gallons out of it if your just runing DI with no RO. I would usually only get about 40-50 gallons from mine. Have you tried recharging the resins yourself? You can do it with household chemicals and a simple drip system. It's really tough to beat in terms of $/gallon.
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You cannot use reason to change the opinion of a person that did not use reason to form their opinion in the first place. |
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#6
10/04/2007, 01:31 PM
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The kati/ani is just a DI, but the resins have already been separated so they are easier to recharge. The usual DI carts have the cationic and anionic resins mixed. They have to be separated before recharging since one requires exposure to a strong acid and the other a strong base.
Is recharging resin worth it? Dunno, you'll have to look at it and determine what your time is worth. I've never done it but it sounds like a messy process too. Bulk resin is pretty cheap. In any event, you can get bulk cationic and anionic resins and load them into a pair of cartridges. It's probably cheaper than buying the kati/ani system. You may be better off just trying to reduce the CO2 in your source water. , AFAIK the only thing you can do about it is to aerate your source water before purifying it. That may require filling a garbage can, aerating it with airstones or venturi equipped pumps, and using a booster pump to force it through your RO/DI. I'm surprised AZDesertRat hasn't chimed in. wryknow: he probably is using RO, but RO doesn't remove CO2 which rapidly exhausts DI resin (at least one of the resins.) |
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#7
10/04/2007, 01:31 PM
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I would not think it would work well with CO2 laden water. The CO2 will make carbonic acid and that should deplete your resin quickly. The CO2 will keep converting to the acid as more acid is absorbed by the resin. This is Le Chatelier's principle.
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#8
10/04/2007, 01:49 PM
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I do use a RO system before it goes to my DI. I dont have the Kati ani system yet. but im thinking about it.
Here is my setup now. 
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PJ Click the Little Red house for my New Tank Build! |
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#9
10/04/2007, 02:01 PM
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You already have the kati/ani system because the kati/ani system is just a DI and nothing more.
You need to remove CO2 through aeration. Spectrapure's FAQ shows a simple reactor you can build that will remove the CO2 before DI. It's just a PVC pipe with an airstone in it. http://www.spectrapure.com/faq_p0.htm#calcc02 good luck |
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#11
10/04/2007, 02:18 PM
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How long does the water need to be areated? I was thinking about having a 10gal tank or one of those wrapping paper containers hold the water with a air stone. Have my supply water hooked up to a float valve going into the wrapping paper tank then have my booster pump suck the water out of that. Will that work??
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PJ Click the Little Red house for my New Tank Build! |
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#12
10/04/2007, 02:43 PM
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yes, DI resin can be recharged, but the anionic and cationic resins need to be recharged separately, because one requires a strong acid for recharging and the other requires a strong base. The cartridges you have in your system right now are "mixed bed" which means they contain a mixture of cationic and anionic resins. To recharge them you must separate the anionic resin from cationic resin, a major pain, or buy separate anionic and cationic resins and load them into individual cartridiges. That is what the kati/ani system is: two cartdriges - one loaded with cationic resin and the other anionic resin. When the resins are exhausted you take them out of the carts and go through the recharging process.
It's probably cheaper to buy the separate resins and load them into a cartridge to put into your existing system than it is to buy a new system with new housings and plumbing and all that. Even if you did, the cationic resin is still going to become exhausted quickly if you don't take care of the CO2 problem. Not many people go through the trouble of recharging DI resin because the costs in terms of the recharging chemicals and time/effort is prohibitive compared to buying fresh resin in bulk at a good price. In other words, recharging isn't going to lower your costs. The only thing that is going to significantly lower your costs in this situation is reducing the CO2 in the water before deionizing it. |
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#13
10/04/2007, 02:48 PM
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Yes, you can recharge resins by hand but you'll have to decide if it's worth your time or not. You basically just take a really strong acid and a really strong base and drip them through the resins. The acid and the base just strip all of the charged particles out of the resin so that you can use them again. It takes about 10 minutes to set up the drip systme and you have to let it run over night. The muriatic acid and caustic soda need to be handled carefully though.
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You cannot use reason to change the opinion of a person that did not use reason to form their opinion in the first place. |
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#18
10/09/2007, 08:57 AM
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Quote:
From this tank, send it through the DI section. How long will it take? I cant accuratly answer that without a lot more info... It would depend on how much air bubble you aill be pumping into your container. With a big air stone and air pump i would guess less than 10 minetes or so. small air pump much longer. so be on the safe side
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Roland Last edited by Roland Jacques; 10/09/2007 at 09:06 AM. |
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#19
10/09/2007, 09:15 AM
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What is that thing in-between your 2 blue RO membranes? Is this a low waste water RO set-up?
Quote:
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Roland Last edited by Roland Jacques; 10/09/2007 at 09:48 AM. |
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