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  #1  
Old 12/18/2006, 02:33 PM
CrystalAZ CrystalAZ is offline
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Non-reef related Q for you experts

I am the photographer for my company's annual conference... I have to get enough good pics to use in marketing materials and such for the next year.

Last year, I ended up with some good pics, but some that would have been EXCELLENT ended up non-useable.

The problem: low lighting! I have to take pics at luncheons and presentations without annoying attendees with the flash, so I have to do the best I can in a "sneaking around" capacity. A tripod is not an option most of the time.

So my question to you is: what lens and settings would give me the best all-around results?

I have a 20D and the lenses I currently own are 70-200 4.0L (which was used some last year with less than stellar results due to shake), 17-40 4.0L (which was used some last year - some good and some poor results), 100mm 2.8 macro (not used), and a 50mm 1.8 (didn't have last year). I am not opposed to getting a new lens if there is one that would be great for this purpose.

Any advice?

Crystal
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  #2  
Old 12/18/2006, 02:38 PM
beerguy beerguy is offline
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High ISO and the widest aperture that fits the shot. The caveat is that your depth of field can get very shallow. If you shoot RAW vs JPG you can lighten the pictures up but it will increase noise (especially in the shadows). An IS lens could help, as could a monopod if a tripod is out of the question.
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  #3  
Old 12/18/2006, 03:12 PM
Nikon_Guy Nikon_Guy is offline
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Depending on the height and color of the ceiling at the venue, another option might be aiming the flash at the ceiling. This allows extra light without annoying the subjects.
  #4  
Old 12/18/2006, 03:40 PM
divecj5 divecj5 is offline
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I agree....you can get some really good results with bounce flash and it will be a lot less noticeable. Just depends on how picky they are though
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  #5  
Old 12/18/2006, 04:19 PM
jwedehase jwedehase is offline
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Beerguy got it, large aperture, and as high of an ISO as you dare. Also mentioned, shoot underexposed a couple stops and bring it back in Photoshop. This would be like "pushing" film.

I also shoot a 20D, and have used a friend's 17-40L and 50mm f/1.8. I was pretty surprised by how well that lens worked in low light, even in a restaurant at night. Obviously, it also had extremely shallow DOF, which made the photos seem much more intimate, if that's what you're going for.
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  #6  
Old 12/18/2006, 04:36 PM
CrystalAZ CrystalAZ is offline
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Thanks for the tips!

They are picky about flash - using any flash is a no-no.

I was thinking that maybe the 50mm would be a good one to try. Good to know it works well.

I want to get a variety of photos - some with shallow DOF showcasing small groups talking, and some that show the size of the exhibit hall and the large number of people at the sessions, etc.

The only time I can use the tripod is for set-up pics like people getting awards, board members, etc. But most of the pics are taken wandering around the exhibit hall and other events and just hoping to get something useable!

Crystal
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  #7  
Old 12/19/2006, 01:10 PM
Ebn Ebn is offline
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No flash means a faster lens and bump your ISO. I'm surprised that they're requesting no flash since it's all bounced anyways.

Try the 50mm lens, but depending on how much space you have to work with, you'll end up with waist up shots. Stopped down to 2.8 you should get pretty sharp shots with that lens. Another lens you might want to check out is the 24-70mm f/2.8; once you find a sharp copy of one, you'll wonder how you got by without it. Bump your ISO all the way up to 1600 if you have to and use Noise Ninja or some other sort of noise reducing software in post.
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  #8  
Old 12/19/2006, 03:19 PM
PL-Reef PL-Reef is offline
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I agree the 50's the best choice out of the bunch, I also agree with the 24-70 2.8 I have it and absolutely love it especially in low light. If you can use a tripod for some of the shots then the f/4's should be fine, and like everyone else said bump up that ISO. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
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  #9  
Old 12/21/2006, 08:38 AM
Blue Deuce Blue Deuce is offline
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I would use the 24-70. Since you dont have it you can rent it from this guy www.lensrentals.com. I have used them on a few occassions and they are top notch. He will usually send it out the same day you place the order. Good prices also. I think the 24-70 is like $22 a week.

Tell him Blue Deuce ( Mike ) from POTN sent ya.

Last edited by Blue Deuce; 12/21/2006 at 09:27 AM.
  #10  
Old 12/21/2006, 09:29 AM
BeanAnimal BeanAnimal is offline
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wow LENS rental.... I will have to check into that!

Back in the old days, when I was a student, you could sign out cameras (Nikon F2 series) with just about ANY nikon glass you could think of. Just a student ID was needed... same went for darkroom use. Shoulda taken the opportunity to do color darkroom work but was wholly uninterested!

Great tips here for flashless candids. Thanks.


Bean
  #11  
Old 12/23/2006, 12:48 PM
Navyblue Navyblue is offline
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For low light, fast primes are the way to go. I do a lot of low light photography where flash is a no no too. The fastest zoom is at f/2.8 and I find them not quite fast enough. And even at f/2.8, you generally get sharper pictures with primes than the zooms as they are 1-2 stops down.

My kit are as follows for your reference:
- Sigma 20 mm f/1.8
- Canon 35 mm f/2
- Canon 50 mm f/1.4
- Canon 85 mm f/1.8
- Canon 135 mm f/2

Of course, if you have the budget, you can replace all the non L into their slightly faster L cousin. On top of that, I also use an ST-E2's focus assist for help focus in dark situation.
  #12  
Old 12/24/2006, 12:57 PM
astrogazer astrogazer is offline
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I would shoot the 17-40, and an ISO of probably 800 depending on the ambient light present. That lens will allow you to shoot pretty slow. The prime 50mm, which on your camera works out to be an 80mm equivalent, I believe. That is closing on portrait focal length. Do some practice shooting in your home to get your skills together. Also focusing can become an issue in less than optimal lighting conditions, you may want to brush-up on your manual focus skills, the focal length of the 17-40 will give you more depth of field latitude than any other lens you have at present. Just keep in mind that any given depth of field range is roughly 1/3 in front of and 2/3 behind the point of focus. Good Luck!
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