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#1
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drilled hole and glass chipped on back side
I got an ebay diamond drill bit and drilled a hole in a 25 high. I supported the back side of the hole and when I got through and removed the support 4 or 5 chips of glass broke off from the edge of the hole.
I installed the bulkhead and it leaks, I then reversed the bulkhead (gasket on the outside of the tank) and it still leaks. Any thoughts would be appreciated. rich |
#2
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My fishroom is cramped. So lots of my plumbing is just tough to get to. That also means that leaking bulkheads can be more than a pita. Some folks coat the outside of bulkheads with silicone just to be safe. I've had no failures using "household goop". The stuff is a little tough to work with (really tough to squeeze out of the tube), but it sticks in waterproof fashion to both the bulkheads and glass. hth
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Why can't my wife see this stuff as an investment? |
#3
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Yes i suggest the silicone then see if it still leaks.
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Chris ------- Click the little red house to see my 90Gal tank setup "All the clownfish and yellow tangs in the world can't help you now!" - Peter Griffin |
#4
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Do not place the gasket on the outside, it won't work there. Keep it inside.
Were the chips on the inside of the tank, or outside? My guess is the inside. I am a big fan of the Marine Goop. This stuff rocks. What you need to do is apply a small thin layer of goop around the hole to fill in the chip pockets. Let this dry for 12-24 hours. Then, place the bulkhead in as normal with the gasket inside the tank and all should be well. I do not like silicone on these things, you will just squeeze it out when tightening and turning the fitting.
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Cheers, Scott |
#5
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Never thought of Marine Goop. I will try it.
Are there any issues with this stuff sitting on the inside of the tank in water, or is it such a small amount that it doesn't matter? rich |
#6
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Leave the gasket inside the tank, but run a bead of silicone around the hole before you put the bulkhead in place, then tighten it down, it will twist a bit easier because of the silicone so just make sure you get it tight, may have to use a pipe wrench, smooth out the silicone that oozed out on the inside, make sure its a nice smooth bead on the inside so it doesnt look bad, let it dry overnight and you will be fine. I drill lots of tanks, and thus chip a bunch of tanks, I use the silicone and it works fine, right now I am looking at my 125 that has 4 bulkheads in it all with silicone around the gasket and no leaks
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#7
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Did you use a plywood guide? I bet it chipped right before the drill bit broke through. For a better finish always drill the finish side firsthand go very slow with lots of h2o. Can you drill it bigger and use a bigger bulkhead? You could get an Inland Seas Schedule 80 Grey Tank Adapters (Bulkheads). They need a larger opening. Redrill the hole bigger and do it right. I can send you pics on how to do it right. Also is a good idea to use a cordless and Torque it down. Do the job right the first time. If you start gluing your bulkheads you are starting off on the wrong foot.
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#8
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I did use a guide and I braced the backside. I purchased the marine goop. I will see what will happend when the goop dries. It at least is building up the chipped area.
I was going to use silicone, I was just afraid the nut would ooze out the silicone. rich |
#9
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Cheapo vaseline has worked for me in the past with no tank issues. Silicone I've heard will mess up the bulkheads over time not to mention it's hard to get off.
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#10
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Good luck. I would feel sorry for you if it stared to leek 3 to 5 months from now. If you ever drill again buddy; remember to do the inside first, that way the chips will be to the outside
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#11
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Just to make 100% sure... are you putting the gasket on the flange or nut side? It has to be on the flange side whether it's oriented to the inside or out side of the tank and it shouldn't need any kind of sealant. Also make sure any flashing from the plastic molding process is cleand off the bulkhead and make sure there are no cracks in the plastic.
Good luck! Tim
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Have you ever imagined a world with no hypothetical situations ? Press "1" for English. Press "2" to disconnect until you learn to speak English. |
#12
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ok the gasket goes on the flange side period. you can put the flange side on the side where there is no chips, im assuming thats the outside, and all should be good for ya.
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#13
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Quote:
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180g is running! |
#14
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I tried that but couldn't get the drill on the inside. I was debating using a dremel vs. the diamond hole saw. Seeing some posted pics with the dremel I decide to go with the hole saw.
Marine goop is still drying. I will let you know how the goop worked. I guess if it leakes down the road, silicone will have to be used. rich |
#15
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GOOP didn't work. I am applying more in some spots that might have been a bit thin.
I hope this works. If not we are going the silicone route. rich |
#16
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I think we need to take a step backwards here. There has been a lot of advice... some of it good... some of it not so good.
Firstly... How big are the chips? Do they extend past the outside edge of the gasket? As mentioned, the GASKET always goes on the FLANGE side of the bulkhead. It does not matter if the FLANGE is inside or OUTSIDE of the tank. There should be no need for silicone, vasaline, goop, or any other rememdy. If the chips are in the inside of the tank. Put the gasket and flange on the outside. The nut would go on the inside. This should provide a leak freee seal. If it does not, then you are doing something wrong. Hand tighten the bulkhead and then use a pair of channel locks or similar to give it a 1/4 to 1/2 turn past hand tight. It should not leak. If it does, again you have done something wrong. Plumbing attached to the bulkheads needs to be supported. You should not reply on the bulkhead to support plumbing runs that are longer than a foot or so. Silicone and other glues are a bandaid that will end up leaking in the future. The gasket will seal flat against the glass and should not need any glue. If you MUST have the flange and gasket on the inside, then the silicone is your best bet. You will need to use enough to fill the chips and provide a thin layer all the way around the gasket. Tighten the nut down and squeeze out the excess. You will have to ensure that the gakster does not sping and gets pushed flat against the glass and silicone. Wipe of the excess.. Do not disturb the bulkhead until the silicone is fully dry. You will in essence be making a custom fitted gasket that is formed between the gasket and glass chips. Bean |
#17
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Two chips are about 1/4 inch in size and very thin. I would say 2 are that size and 2 are are about 1/8. They are very thin in thickness max thickness is about 1/8. One chips gets very close to the edge of the gasket, but not past the edge.
I put the bulkhead on the outside and it still leaked. The bulkhead has thread outside and inside, so I don't care if flange is inside or outside. I don't have anything except about a 2 inch piece of pipe with an elbow so I can get the water to stay in the tank above the gasket. I have have this bulkhead on another tank and it worked fine. I understand the gasket must go with the flange and not the nut. I will try this last bit of goop and clean it off retry it with the flange on the outside again. If that doesn't work, it will be silicone. rich |
#18
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There should be no need for goop if you use the flange on the outside. The goop may actually cause the leak. When the flange is on the outside it will sit flush against the glass (no chips) and should seal. If it does not seal then you have done something wrong. Check the gasket for imperfections.
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#19
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You might be correct about the goop. However, I did put the flange on the outside, thinking about the chips on the inside. I looked again at the chips and the thickest is no more than 1/8 thick with a couple other 1/16th. There are also a few flakes of glass.
If you could drill from the inside to the outside you should. So if the flange and gasket are on the outside, the gasket should form the seal and missing glass should not matter. I will scrape off the goop and try it again. rich |
#20
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make sure you tork it down real good. use a wrench.
especially with chips. your gasket has to fill in the chip to stop the leak so make sure you get the gasket to really flatten out. if there are rings on the gasket put the rings on the side with the glass. |
#21
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Yes the rings go on the side with the glass... but with all due respect... be carefull "torqueing" it down. If you are over zealous you will split the nut. That is why I said hand tight + 1/2 turn (or so).
If you try to get it too tight, the nut will split, or the gasket will deform. Bean |
#22
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Bean, I understand, no offence taken. We are both just trying to help out.
I have never split a nut with too much torque. I don't know what kind of bulkheads are being used but mine are schedule 40 and they hold up pretty well. I used them on some 200gal. vats plumbed through the bottom and if I didn't torque them down as hard as I could it would still leak. I would be more worried about cracking the glass than the nut. |
#23
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If this bulkhead is used then is the gasket dried out, check it by bending it back and forth and look for hairline cracks.
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#24
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good point. that might be the problem.
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#25
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I have split a few... sch 40 cheapies from eBay and Aqautic Eco. The proper wrench helps to keep the pressure even also. A small channel lock has a tendencey to distort the nut.
Bean |
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