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#1
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whats the best way to remove scatches from the acrylic tank?
what is the best way to remove bad scatches from an acrylic tank? I have some bad scratches and would like to see if it can be removed.
what should i use and how |
#2
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http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Produc...1&N=2004&Nty=1
That looks like an easy solution, never used it myself. Anyone ever tried using CD Scratch remover? (The kit that comes with the bottle of paste and the soft fabric to rub in the paste) |
#3
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There are kits specially made for this that come with several pieces of abrasive paper of differing grits. You'll need to start with a coarse enough grit to take out the deepest scratch--sand in one direction (say up and down) That will put a whole bunch of new scratches in. Move to the next finer grit and sand in the opposite direction (say side to side) until only those new scratches are visible. Then step down to the next grit. Keep going until you are at the finest one. Gently use it to buff out the next-to-last set of fine scratches.
This is easy to do on the outside of a tank or an empty tank but you can do it in a filled tank as well. Be patient and don't rush. Maybe do one section of the tank and one grit paper on any given night. Make one step down each night to avoid fatigue and the temptation to hurry.
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"Keep busy, even if with poker, fighting and fast cars, because idleness will get you in worse trouble." -- Dean Koontz |
#4
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look for a solution in model building. i believe they use a form of wetsanding. there is also acrylic paste used to fill in scratches. but i have never tried it
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Some day I will have my 180g reef. Im building it 1 tank at a time. |
#5
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inside or outside scratches?
if out side, I have used polishing compound quite successfully...(you can buy at PepBoys)...for a car.........
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A wasted weekend is not a weekend wasted! |
#6
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thanks for all the responses..this will be for inside but the tank is empty so polishing and taking time is not a problem.
what type of compound and did it leave new scratches? Did it remove the scratches pretty good? |
#7
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I just started to attack the scratches on my new 250g. I used the 3 part Novus and it rocks!!! Very easy and so far I am impressed.
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The cure for anything is salt water.....sweat, tears, or the sea. Isak Dinesen |
#8
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Novus is the stuff for real. It cleans the plastic very well. I use it on my headlights as well.
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#9
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empty tank--novus is sweet.
full tank--learn how to use the micromesh kits. Practice ona spare piece of acrylic
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Excuses are just the nails for the house of failure. |
#10
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Novus? which one would you recommend for some major scratches?
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#11
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i've used the pentair aquatics scratch removal kit which can be used under water. Works ok but I'll tell you it's a lot of work, especially with my 24" high tank. Start with coarse then work your way to the finer grits alternating directions of each grit.
good luck |
#12
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I just did a badly scratched 55 acrylic with the rainbow lifegard kit. Had a few beers and tried it with my craftsman hand sander. Much easier and did a fairly decent job but still doesn't compare to doing it by hand. Patience is the key to a clear tank. My first tank took a couple weeks to do by hand but the results were worth it.
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#13
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When do you have to worry about weakening the walls of the tank? I want to remove the scratches in mine, but I fear that sound of water . .
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Sherie |
#14
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If you're doing it by hand you'll never get deep enough to weaken the tank. (Like chest percussion...you aren't going to break a rib...)
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"Keep busy, even if with poker, fighting and fast cars, because idleness will get you in worse trouble." -- Dean Koontz |
#15
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Um,
OK if you say so on not weakening the tank if abrading by hand, but chest compressions (i.e. CPR) can absolutely break ribs in some situations when being performed correctly!
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Sherie |
#16
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i have a very badly scratched 180, deep marks from an urchin, well i started at 800 grit sand paper and ended up at 2500, all wetsanding with a random orbital sander, then i used novus 3 & 2, I didnt remove all of the marks but i did makes them less deep. so wet sanding is the way to go for deep marks, just be patient.
Tim |
#17
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where can you get this novus
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#18
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Optimus702...noticed that ur in southern california. There is a store called S & W plastics (several branches in the IE..maybe in San Gabriel area too) but they carry this stuff and alot of acrylic sheets too.
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#19
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H20Sidhe...off topic, but since your bio line indicated you are/were an MD, I referenced chest percussion for auscultation, not chest compressions for CPR.
__________________
"Keep busy, even if with poker, fighting and fast cars, because idleness will get you in worse trouble." -- Dean Koontz |
#20
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Aristarchus
That pentair kit is basically for survival mode only, if you have major scratches and cant view your fish, otherwise it sux as a scartch removal kit. The final grit paper is nowhere near fine enough to make it shine or even not look blurred, and the solution they give you, is only good on a dry surface, and if you had a completely dry surface why would you use their product instead of the Novus line which actually does a good job???
I suggest this which an acrylic manufacturer told me about, it has much rugher and finer grades, A MUCH BETTER PRODUCT THEN THE PENTAIR. goodluck David |
#21
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which number to use for the novus to remove DEEP scratches?
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#22
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3
3
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#23
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Artful dodger - Thanks for the explanation! LOL You can imagine the amount of pressure I'm expecting I'll have to use to remove my scratches.
![]() Maybe I should lighten my touch to less than rib-breaking for this task!
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Sherie |
#24
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if you want to get rid of scratches just remove the dsb then install starboard
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#25
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so sand is the only cause of scratches in an acrylic tank? That's a relief
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__________________
"Keep busy, even if with poker, fighting and fast cars, because idleness will get you in worse trouble." -- Dean Koontz |
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