What is this stuff on my Porcupine?

[ellamaeruth]

Here's a link to an awesome picture of what I am about to describe.
http://www.plecos.net/gallery/displ...album=47&pos=57

My porcupine puffer is about 6" long and I've had him for over a year. Every time I move a rock or mess with the sandbed, he gets these little white spots on his fins. This last time (about 5 days ago) he also got them on his body. They don't seem to bother him and they usually (but not this time) go away in a day or two and don't come back until the next time.

If I just do a normal sandsifting with the water changes, this does not happen. Only when I remove sand (I hate Reef Base, btw) or move a rock.

None of the other tank mates have this, except occasionally the bluejaws get it on their fins only, but not this time. It doesn't matter if I keep the salinity at 1.018 or 1.024. 0 ammonia, 0 trites, <=40 trates, 8.3 pH. No new tank mates.

Any ideas on what this is and how to rid my system of it?

thanks --jenny

[Puffer Queen]

Jenny,

When I click on your link - I get "The requested document was not found on this server."

Kelly

[ellamaeruth]

http://www.plecos.net/gallery/displa...lbum=47&pos=57

it you click on the pic it will get even bigger.

HOT
--jenny

[ellamaeruth]

btw Kelly, how do you get beta glucan IN your fish?

[Puffer Queen]

I take the capsules (open & empty contents) or tablets (crushed into fine powder) and depending on the fish I am feeding, I will:

1. open the whole squid or split the whole shrimp & place the beta glucan inside the squid or shrimp body.
2. sprinkle the beta glucan on the frozen food, i.e mysis & let soak for an hour.
3. dissolve the beta glucan in ro water or vitamins and soak the freeze dried food for about 20 minutes.
4. Sprinkle the beta glucan in the live brine shrimp or live ghost shrimp about an hour before I need to feed them. You can actually see the beta glucan in the shrimp.


Hope this helps.

Kelly

[Puffer Queen]

Jenny,

From what I can see from the pics - it looks like ich.

From what you describe, it sounds like when you stir or disrupt the sand bed or rock formations, the puffer will break out. This sounds like the ich cysts are being "liberated" or dislodged from the sand bed and anytime there is change in environment - change in hiding spots, hand in tank, change is pH or water temp , there is a component (small or large) of stress which leaves a fish vulnerable to parasistes or disease. It sounds like your fish is fighting off the parasite, but the parasite is still in your tank. In other words, the ich cycle continues regardless if your fish is free of symptoms.

This is just my opinion.

Kelly

[ellamaeruth]

I suspected ich or another parasite. I have been running my UV for the last 36 hours. Any recommendations as to ridding my system of this permanently?

off topic, didnt i read somewhere that anthony calfo helped you with your tank? i recently met him and he's just awesome. so energetic, knowledgeable, and personable.

i'll start the beta glucan today, now that i know how to actually get it into the fish. i also met terry bartelme, who praises its use.

thanks kelly
--jenny

[Puffer Queen]

Jenny,

In regards to the UV, make sure the water entering the UV is filtered - preferably through a micro filter. The UV will help cut down the numbers but will not irradicate totally. The water that normally passes through the UV is water that is taken off the top of the tank via overflow boxes or bulkheads - the majority of the parasites are at the bottom or lower half of the tank. The ich cysts hatch out in the bottom.

Only sure way to irradicate the tank is hyposalinity for a minimum of 4 weeks and good quarantining habits.

Off topic, Anthony is a very good friend of mine and yes he did build me a 1000 gallon shark pond and a dedicated sturdy 3 tier 10 foot long shelving for my greenwater, rots & fry - my make shift shelving caused him to lose much sleep!

Good luck with your puffer friend,
Kelly

[ellamaeruth]

How low do you go personally to achieve hyposalinity?

as to the uv, i have it set where the intake is at least 2/3 of the way to the bottom of the tank. it's unsightly, but more effective i know.

for what it's worth, his tankmates are a pair of bluejaw triggers, niger trigger, scribbled rabbitfish, regal tang, and dampiera pseudochromis. This fish have all been together for a year.

--jenny

[Puffer Queen]

Jenny,

I recommend treating for 8 weeks in the display tank.

When I get new fish in, I treat for 4 weeks with hyposalinity & then they remain in QT for another 4 weeks at normal salinity before entering a display tank.

Nice selection of fish in your tank!

Best of luck,
Kelly