250 Gallon Starphire SPS tank

[gregt]

This thread was automatically split due to performance issues. You can find the rest of the thread here: http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...07#post5017807

[LittleBlueGT]

I got a new toy! A volt/ohm meter that tests amperage.



I will give a breakdown of the amperage draw of every component in my system soon. Some initial testing has proved surprising!

[LittleBlueGT]

I've been split.

Here is a pic of my revised sump.



I now have my skimmer sitting on a stand in my sump. It is much easier to clean now, and I can extend it if I wish in the future.

This is what it used to look like.



I have a lot more room now. Unfortunately with my Blueline HD 100 now running the skimmer I sometimes have micro-bubbles, but only when I feed really heavy, and then only for a few minutes.

[LittleBlueGT]

The output from the skimmer creates a HUGE amount of flow in the frag grow out area of the sump (only one frag in there now).

I would estimate I am pushing 1600 gph through the skimmer. I have crazy flow in there, much more then the tank!

[LittleBlueGT]

Speaking of flow this is the flow I have in my 45 gallon drum mixing new saltwater.



Notice how clean the containeris. I have not cleaned it for 12 consecutive batches of saltwater. I attribute that to using magnesium in my DI water before adding salt.

[LittleBlueGT]

This is how my pumps are now set-up.



This pic shows the main return from the tank aimed right at the intake to the skimmer pump so that I get almost raw overflowing water to the skimmer.

[LittleBlueGT]

Now that I am dripping kalk and I have a huge calcium reactor I am able to finally put my CO2 on a timer! That should help to lessen my PH swings from night to day. I tested my water today and noticed that my alk was at 11 and my calcium was at 450. I like to run it at 10 and 425. I think only running the reactor 12 hrs per day will accomplish that.

Now I have plenty of room to grow as far as adding alk and calcium as my corals and clams grow! So far growth has been very good.

For all of you that have a calcium reactor that has a pump that feeds bottom to top I think reversing that is a very beneficial idea. I feel my reactor is about 40% more efficient because of that alone. Sucking from the top of the reactor helps to use up all the CO2. I also feel that stepping up from a Mag2 pump to a pcx-30 made a big difference.

[H20ENG]

"I attribute that to using magnesium in my DI water before adding salt."
I haven't heard about this. Got any links to the info? I like what I see in your mix tank- nothing!


"For all of you that have a calcium reactor that has a pump that feeds bottom to top I think reversing that is a very beneficial idea. I feel my reactor is about 40% more efficient because of that alone. Sucking from the top of the reactor helps to use up all the CO2. "

If your reactor pump feeds bottom to top, arent you already sucking from the top? I'm sure the bigger pump makes the reactor more CO2 efficient. I just hate to increase wattage. I'm EXTREMELY watt-shy, as our elec rates over baseline are now $0.23/kw!!!!!
Remember with your amp meter, you can get closeto your actual wattage, but you really need a watt meter to test all the different loads. The amp meter gets you right on with resistive loads, and close an the rest. Theres a little $35 meter that tests actual wattage. I cant remember the name.....
Everythings looking sweet, and sorry for your coral loss.
Chris

[tgunn]

Originally posted by H20ENG
just hate to increase wattage. I'm EXTREMELY watt-shy, as our elec rates over baseline are now $0.23/kw!!!!!

That's high electrical rates! Rates over baseline are cheaper than the base rates here. I think it just went up recently to $0.05 CDN per kw/hr.

Remember with your amp meter, you can get closeto your actual wattage, but you really need a watt meter to test all the different loads. The amp meter gets you right on with resistive loads, and close an the rest. Theres a little $35 meter that tests actual wattage. I cant remember the name.....

You're thinking of the Kill-A-Watt, correct?

I've been meaning to pick one of these up myself to see what wastes power in my house. I have a feeling my digital cable terminals must suck a lot of idle power since they make such gread space heaters even when off. Although I guess that small wattage will be nothing once I get my reef running!

Tyler

[H20ENG]

Yep, Baseline is 0.13, 200% over is 0.17, and 300% is 0.23!!
And they only give us 360kwh a month as baseline I run about 11-1200kwh every month. (along with the reef, I have a wife and 2 teenage daughters, each with computer, stereo, 1100watt hair dryer, curling iron, a mountain of laundry, and a broken turnoffthelightswitch finger)
Maybe a tiny 10g would look just as pretty?
I was thinking kill a watt but didnt sound right. Thats it. I got get one of those so I can shed even more tears....

[DerekW]

How do you add the magnesium to the ro water? just a standard magnesium supplement, Kent's or something?

[Johnsteph10]

You know H20ENG, I think my wife as that same broken turnoffthelightswitch finger.

Any hope for a cure?

John

[LittleBlueGT]

Originally posted by Johnsteph10
You know H20ENG, I think my wife as that same broken turnoffthelightswitch finger.

Any hope for a cure?

John

There is no cure. They just like to hear the sound of our voice nagging them for once.

[jeffbrig]

Don't just tease us with that meter, how about some numbers?

[LittleBlueGT]

Originally posted by H20ENG
"I attribute that to using magnesium in my DI water before adding salt."
I haven't heard about this. Got any links to the info? I like what I see in your mix tank- nothing!


"For all of you that have a calcium reactor that has a pump that feeds bottom to top I think reversing that is a very beneficial idea. I feel my reactor is about 40% more efficient because of that alone. Sucking from the top of the reactor helps to use up all the CO2. "

If your reactor pump feeds bottom to top, arent you already sucking from the top? I'm sure the bigger pump makes the reactor more CO2 efficient. I just hate to increase wattage. I'm EXTREMELY watt-shy, as our elec rates over baseline are now $0.23/kw!!!!!

Remember with your amp meter, you can get closeto your actual wattage, but you really need a watt meter to test all the different loads. The amp meter gets you right on with resistive loads, and close an the rest. Theres a little $35 meter that tests actual wattage. I cant remember the name.....
Everythings looking sweet, and sorry for your coral loss.
Chris

I dose 300ml to a 45 gallon drum of RO/DI water. After at least 1 hr I add 6 tsp of calcium. Then after a day I add in the IO salt. My levels are 425, 10, and 1380. My tank is rock solid now on its levels and I have no problems with precipitation. I cleaned three of my pumps a couple of weeks ago and they were all pretty good. I am a huge believer in keeping magnesium levels up.

I do not dose it to my tank directly, I just bring up my newly made up water to around 1380. If you use a lot of kalk I would possibly dose a little bit to the tank directly from time to time.

Before I used magnesium I found I could never get my levels to the point where they are now, and I would always get some precipitation in my mixing container.

If you are interesterd in getting some magnesium check here.

[LittleBlueGT]

As far as the reactor goes mine used to feed from bottom to top, now it feeds from top to bottom. A much more efficient design IMO.

Hope that answers your question H20ENG

[LittleBlueGT]

Originally posted by jeffbrig
Don't just tease us with that meter, how about some numbers?

Unofficial, by memory numbers:

Hammerhead = 350 Watts as manufacture claims
Blueline HD 100 = 350 watts manufacturer claims 390
pcx-40 = 90 watts manufacturer claims 110
pcx-50 = 200 watts manufacturer claims 160
pcx-30 = I forgot
250 W Ushio 10K DE on an icecap = 220 watts
250 Hamilton 14K DE on a magnetic = 300 watts
T5s = I can't rmember
VHOs where less then advertised but have to double check.

I will get a more accurate list next week.

[LittleBlueGT]

I am honored to be in reefkeeping online magazine, at least just briefly!

It is an old picture, but shows what my tank looks like in my house. It is about the 40th pic so it might take a while to find.

Reefslides June 2005

My goal is to be tank of the month by the year 2010. I have no idea if it is attainable, but my goal non-the-less.

[melev]

Why? What's your rush?

[LittleBlueGT]

Originally posted by melev
Why? What's your rush?

I know. I keep thinking if I could just learn patience I would save soo much time and money.

I am waiting for ALL the corals to be growing out of the tank.

[Flatlander]

[i]

My goal is to be tank of the month by the year 2010. I have no idea if it is attainable, but my goal non-the-less. [/B]

[LittleBlueGT]

Doug, I need you to come over and give me some suggestions from all your experience.

Don't forget a couple of frags.

[APorter]

Do you have a pic of how you have your drains? If I understand correctly you have one normal drain pipe and one durso. The regular pipe is lower than the durso and doing most of the work.

[LittleBlueGT]

Originally posted by APorter
Do you have a pic of how you have your drains? If I understand correctly you have one normal drain pipe and one durso. The regular pipe is lower than the durso and doing most of the work.

That is correct.

No pic though, it is too hard to take one.

I have about 800 gph going through the normal drain, and about 5 gph going through the Durso.

[APorter]

Do you have a pic of how you have your drains? If I understand correctly you have one normal drain pipe and one durso. The regular pipe is lower than the durso and doing most of the work.