H. crispa

[shane 1111]

i cant find quality indepth info on sebae anemones
my lighting is 4 65W pc =5 Wats per gallon
info needed
care?
signs of good health?
signs of bad health?
what color shoud it be? mine is light tan
i already know they are difficult to care for

thanks in advance

[PSEUDOREEFER]

Watts per gallon is totally meaningless. The actual intensity of the light is more important. In nearly all cases (there are only a few rare cases where this is not true) sebae anemones need metal halides to live, but since yours isn't bleached (hence the tan color) you may have a chance. IMO getting better lighting for it will greatly increase your chances with this anemone. Signs of good health are tan coloring (darker is better), long slender tenticles, sticky tenticles, accepting food and if it has buried itself in the sand or not (put it in the sand bed if it isn't attached yet, if it moves up, get more lighting). Signs of bad health include a white coloring, short, stubby tenticles, lack of stickyness, refusal of food, frequent deflation, detaching from the rock(if it's on a rock- sign the end is near) and hiding from the light. They should be a dark tan color. White indicates that they've bleached. How old is your tank and what type of filtration do you have. Good luck with it and kudos for asking here for info (before you buy it is better though )

[phender]

IME, you have enough light, but having more light wouldn't hurt.
In addition to the info provided by Pseudoreefer, you will want to feed it some meaty seafood at least twice a week for a while. Some people like to pre-soak the food in a food suppliment like Selcon.

If you have picked out a healthy H. crispa to start with, that is more than half the battle. Good luck.

[shane 1111]

1 know Watts per gallon is totally meaningless

[shane 1111]

would a double ended pfo HQI 250 W MINI PENDANT 20000 K be better for the anemone

[shane 1111]

i have a seaclone 100 a bak-pak skimmer and a emperor 400

[PSEUDOREEFER]

The PFO would be excellent. The filtration is kind of lacking for a reef, but with a sufficient amount of live rock you should be ok. For future reference, look into a refugium. Is it still maintaining it's brown color?

[shane 1111]

some of it is geting darker. i want a refugium

the anemone lacks stickyness, refusal of some food
it some times eats mussel

what would be beter filtration

[shane 1111]

would the PFO be good on a 75 with 4 65 W pc's
i want to have anemones, tridacnid clams and sps corals in this tank

[PSEUDOREEFER]

One pendant over a 4 foot tank would be pushing it as they have limited spread. Also, with 10 or 20k bulbs, actinic pc's won't be necessary. Two pendants with 10 to 20k bulbs would give you better light spread, intensity and save you money on bulbs (4 65 watt pc's=$90, 1 250 watt 20k XM=$53). Also, with a tank of your depth, going HQI's aren't really needed. Single ended bulbs are cheaper and you don't have to deal with glass covers for UV. But if you'd rather go HQI's and are willing to pay the extra price, the added growth and intensity can be wonderful.

[PSEUDOREEFER]

BTW, a refugium would be better filtration :P

[valexia]

FWIW, we have an H. Crispa, its happy under a 150 hqi pendant, and it is fed twice a week with "prime reef" frozen food, silversides, and occasional flake food chunks from fish leftovers.

HOWEVER, its huge...like at least twenty inches across.
And when/if it moves (has only happened once when a powerhead broke loose and changed the water flow "not to its liking") it has a tendancy to kill anything and everything coral wise in its path.

Anemones don't really like sharing space with other anemones. Chemical warfare will be declared and it won't be pretty.

I would also think about doing some reading on basic reef filteration techniques on here...its something to check out. Emperors are great fresh water filters but if your doing reef i highly suggest you seek alternative methods that are both cheeper in the long run and easier to deal with IMHO.
Just my take.

[shane 1111]

i allredy have the pc's