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#1
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stand problems
I am currently setting up a 75 reef, I built the stand out of 2x4's etc, I did this before for my 80 gallon was a breeze.. Of course this time heh anyway I got it built set the tank on top of the stand level as hell, but the front of the tank has like a 1/8 of a inch gap just in the middle the corners are fine and everything else is fine. So my question is what would you guys do)change out the wood think it may be bowed right there? Or get some 1/4 inch plywood and set it on top? Hell even thinking of just flipping it over mabye? Will it be fine with a little gap? Was trying to post a pic but just cannot resize it and still see the gap. Thanks
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#2
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This may sound silly, but how do you feel about using some cement in that location just to act as a filler? The structural integrity of the stand is critical so that it does not wobble and is adiquately supported everywhere it needs to be. I'm just thinking that if all you need is to somehow fill this gap ... this would work. Cement would have plenty of compression strength to act as a shim.
Just a thought. |
#3
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fill the gap with a little wood then use a sheet of 1/2" foam
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:fish1: Tank417 |
#4
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Sounds good! The stand does not wobble or anything, although I have only built 3 fish stands and thats about all of my construction skills. What kind of cement like the crack filler you buy in the tube? I will just cement the tank to the stand haha.) Some shims, then foam also sounds good but I remember reading some mixed reviews about foam? Mabye) Thanks for the fast replys.
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#5
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I was thinking of something like Portland cement, quick dry cement, hydraulic cement, grout, or maybe even 'thin set'. Anything that is cement based, without a coarse aggregate, and doesn't shrink. Do they make a wood putty that could work?
You could even half a$$ed apply the cement, mask off the underside of the tank with saran wrap, and set the tank in place. The cement will take shape and eventually harden in that location to make a ‘form fit’. Seems like a sound theory to me. I think that the foam idea relies on the foam to compress where it needs to and help distribute the weight a bit more evenly, but I'm not sure. I personally would fell better knowing that I had a rock solid and even base that had as much contact with the tank as possible. |
#6
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Warped lumber ... ... ... you didn't happen to get that lumber at Lowes did you
I stand in the isle, eyeing along the edge, elderly men walk by laughing while saying "good luck". I know this isn't funny, but I can't help but recall the incident. It seems like you have to pick the better of 2 evils because nothing seems to be straight these days. Oh … and treated lumber … looked straight at the time, but let it sit for a day or to and let it dry out. Warped as a bow. |
#7
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lol yes i got the lumber at lowes.=( True it is really hard to find straight 2x4's went through about 50 or so before i picked the 10 I wanted, thinking im gonna just unscrew the front try another 2x4 or 3 to see, if no luck that cement trick sounds like a good idea to me, I see many sleepless nights ahead once it is full. lol Thanks for the help)
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#8
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They've got self-leveling epoxy or self-leveling cement that would work well.
Here's an old thread about it: http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...leveling+epoxy Just do a search for "self leveling epoxy" or "self leveling cement"
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"Signatures are only good for 2 things....advertising and posting stupid quotes." - MrSandman |
#9
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Quote:
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#10
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Level Best, self leveling cement
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#11
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sorry, not very informative. U can buy it at ur local paint, hardware OR big bix store. It comes in a powder form, mix it up w/ a dril and mixer head, and just pour it into ur damn!!!! It will self level
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#12
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I like your idea with the plywood.
Even better, get a nice piece of corian which will look sweet. You can set your tank on it (after you are sure that everything is level) and use resin shims to push the plywood or corian up, where needed, until it is flush with the tank all the way around. The coran is flexible enough that you can get away without the styrofoam. After building a sump and trying to get the tension just right between the seems one glues, I can tell you that the wood will never be straight enough! This is how my stand was built. Here is a pic. I will let you know if my tank explodes when I fill it. I will be wearing a helmet. |
#13
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Thanks for all the info=) LOL tryed all kinds of wood etc just made the damn stand worse.. haha but my level says it is level>? Gonna go with the self cement or the cheapo fermica on top.. might just go buy one... this is a sign from up above=p appreciate the fast replys and the link... thanks again)
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#14
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wow that's alot of great insight- i just got a tank and am going to set it up with my partner bernard in a couple days and these tips are gold
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#15
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Quote:
This site is a godsend. It will save us blood, sweat, and tears in resolving our stand problems. |
#16
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yeah, no diggity. are you coming over to help set-up my tank tonight? i'll make some hot chocolate and rent that new adam baldwin movie
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#17
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This tips are great, but so is hot chocolate. hmmmmm, especially on a cold winters day.
hot coco aside, i think you should be fine with a small gap. My friend Tony had a gap and we had to fill it. |
#18
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mcstallen, jaws is awesome
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#19
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Cement will not stick to wood, why do you htink they use it to make forms for pouring cement. It will just crack and crumble. Use the epoxy that was mentioned if you want to try to fill it.
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#20
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Quote:
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#21
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I gotta rash, but that is niether here nor there. we are here to talk about reefaluva's gap - it needs filling.
I agree - definately go with the epoxy. its can be a pain in my *** sometimes but the fumes are great and you will be pleased with the results. Tony and I were, even after our first time. |
#22
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speaking of epoxy, would you recommend "Holdfast Epoxy" for acquarium use? They sell 4 oz tubes of it for $8.95 at the Ocean Canolis store that I go to, and it seems like the best deal around- but honestly I don't know a ton about it, and I don't want to make another bad purchase
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#23
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Quote:
Floor tiles are applied with thin-set, a cement and water base adhesive. It is the perferred product. Often under the thin set is a layer of self leveling cement. No, everyone in the construction industry is wrong. |
#24
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Fiberglass resin gel should work too, but it fumes quite a bit ... love the smell.
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#25
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Anyone have any experience with Mapei Systems Self Leveling Cements?
particulary these products: http://www.mapei.it/Referenze/Multim...atop_TD_EA.pdf http://www.mapei.it/Referenze/Multim...Easy_TD_EA.pdf http://www.mapei.it/Referenze/Multim...atop_TD_EA.pdf |
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