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#1
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How do you make a plumbing shopping list?
Assuming you all figured it out how you are going to drain your tank to the sump, pump to the skimmer, return to the tank, etc., at what point do you make the trip to the local hardware store? Do you kind of guess what you may need and get as much you could afford and return unused or you have a pretty good idea of what you are going to be using? As a rule of thumb, where do you place the valves, unions, etc? I mean before and after kind of decisions without overkilling. How is the flexible PVC tubing connected to the other pieces (I am guessing with a special glue to the slip connectors...
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#2
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OK - bunch of questions. Let's try.
1) You make a trip (eventually a couple of trips) to the hardware store when you have your layout planned. If you're using PVC, you need to know all of your bends (45, 90 degree) and how many you will need of each. You also need to know the size PVC you are using (3/4", 1", etc.) and get all your connections to match. 2) You put your unions anywhere you think you might need to break down the system for maintenance. For example, you might want a union right after your return pump - so you can pull it out of the sump whenever you need to clean it (or replace it). You put your ball valves wherever you need to control the amount of flow going through the line (obviously). 3) Flexible PVC tubing typically doesn't glue to the connecting pieces. It fits tightly over hose barb connections (to prevent backing off). You then tighten a clamp around the connection for reinforcement. If this clamp will be applied externally, you can use a metal one. If it's under water, use a plastic one so it won't rust. PVC tubing is very cheap - the connections (ball valves, gate valves, unions, etc) are what can quickly add up. Don't worry too much about having to by a 10-foot length of tubing if you only need 5 feet - you'll probably thank yourself later, when you find you need more than you expected. If you're fairly new to plumbing, you may want to ask for help - if the person is fairly knowledgeable, they can save you tons of time and trips to the store. Oh yeah, and don't forget to get PVC Cleaner/Primer AND Glue. Good luck!
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#3
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1) It shouldn't be that difficult to figure out exactly what you need.
2) Personally, I use true union ball valves before and after every piece of equipment in the line (return pump, OM4). I don't see the point of using unions without valves, other than it might be a little cheaper depending on the type of valve used. One thing nice about most quality true union ball valves is they come with slip and threaded fittings, so for very short runs (like between my first ball valve and return pump) I use the threaded ends and then just buy threaded nipples to go in between the two pieces. This saves you an adapter here and there and makes the expensive things like the true union ball valves reusable. 3) I've heard the Rain-or-Shine Oatey product is the best cement for the flexible PVC pipe. It has a higher solids content if I remember correctly. I've also heard people say the other cements work just fine too. I'd go with the Rain-or-Shine or a Heavy Duty cement.
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Michael |
#4
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You beat me to it jcpatella.
3) Flex PVC is not used with barbs. The clear tubing you find at HD and Lowes is used with barbs, however that is not Flex PVC. That is normally vinyl tubing.
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Michael |
#5
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Ahh - you're absolutely right. I was just thinking that after reading your post. Sorry - I was thinking about clear tubing.
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Dogs - Man's best friend; entropy's greatest catalyst. |
#6
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Mine stats out with the sizes of pipe, amount, and a crap load of returnable fittings when the job is done. Get more than you need and tank back what you dont.......Just my .02
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Honey, can I have a bigger one please? This is the last time I will upsize, I promise! |
#7
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make a sketch as close to how it will actually be layed out as possible. Count all the fittings and get a few extra of each. I don't know about everyone else, but I never EVER make just one trip. I'm always forgetting at least one fitting.
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#8
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Quote:
You could shortcut this process by just buying a half-dozen or so elbows, tees, 45-degree bends, couplers, reducers, unions and ball valves in the sizes you use on your tank. PVC stuff is cheap enough that you can get a good supply for around $20.
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#9
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Shopping list is impossible because during the buid or after you always come up with new ideas to mke it better.
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Look what I bought for your tank honey. |
#10
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Quote:
I don't get it, it's not that difficult to come up with a shopping list. For example: My return pump has a 2" inlet and 1.5" outlet, I need... 1 - 2" bulkhead to supply it 1 - 2" nipple before ball valve 1 - 2" true union ball valve 1 more - 2" nipple There, I'm at the pump. Now I need... 1 - 1.5" nipple from the pump outlet 1 - 1.5" true union ball valve ..... etc. All the way up to the bulkhead(s) that return water to the tank. And then maybe some loc-line. Just combine the duplicates and you've got a list. Is it really that hard?
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Michael |
#11
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Yeah woz...in a perfect world. But you always seem to run into some kind of snag. Crap..I didn't count on having to go around that stud, guess I'll need 2 more 45's... etc......
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#12
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Yeah, like I said, grab some extra elbows and adapters but you want to get the valves and bulkheads right, and if you do that you should be close on the other stuff.
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Michael |
#13
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my theory is figure out everything you need make a list of it and double it. you can never have to many extra pvc parts
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#14
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When I set up my sump, it was the first time I used PVC ever. I had no clue about ball valves and unions and whatever. Woz makes it sound simple (which it is), but that's coming from a man who has 'engineer' as his occupation!!!
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Dogs - Man's best friend; entropy's greatest catalyst. |
#15
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Just make it easy on yourself and buy the "contractor packs" of 90's and 45's
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