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#1
09/30/2007, 05:20 PM
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Getting Rid of the Sucking Slurping Drain Noise
My drains are very loud. Annoyingly and unbearably loud.
 I have set it up to have a T with PVC pipe running higher than the drains and attached a vent to it. This does a little but not enough. How can I make my drains nice and unnoticeably quiet? |
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#3
09/30/2007, 05:25 PM
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#5
09/30/2007, 05:50 PM
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I don't have the luxury of being able to use a Durso stand pipe since I don't have an overflow box.
The rediculous pic attached shows what I tried to do with a really long vent but that didn't help too much.  My sump is in the basement so to get to it the water crashes down about 6 feet goes horizontal for a while and then crashes down another 6 feet into the sump. It can't be caused by too much flow through the sump since the water entering it is intermitant at best. It will flow hard for a while and then pretty much stop for a few seconds then flow fast again then stop, etc. Is there any solution out there for me? Oh God I hope theres a solution out there for me. 
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#6
09/30/2007, 05:52 PM
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Put a box of earplugs on your front door so when people come over, or you get home, you can just pop em in =D
__________________
We are the music makers, and we are the dreamers of dreams. |
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#9
09/30/2007, 05:57 PM
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Hmmm... that would make sense because it pretty much creates a durso stand pipe. You are quite the nerd.
Problem I would see with that is that if my return pump shuts off I will most certainly flood my basement as I have set up my sump and ref to contain an overflow with the drain pointed up... One solution causes another problem. Doh! |
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#11
09/30/2007, 05:59 PM
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the elbow turned upward is the problem. Turn it downward you'll get rid of the noise, but then your sump gotta be large enough to hold the water drained by back siphon when the power goes out.
Just noticed that someone already pointed out the problem. Anyway, a bigger sump will be needed when you turn it downward. Last edited by dattong; 09/30/2007 at 06:06 PM. |
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#13
09/30/2007, 06:03 PM
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Quote:
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#14
09/30/2007, 06:06 PM
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Wouldn't I have to set my return pump at full blast to pump all that draining water back up.
If the object is to get the air out of the line isn't that almost impossible with about 30 feet of 1.5" PVC. It would require an incredibly fast rate of water flow. |
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#15
09/30/2007, 06:08 PM
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You don't have to turn it down, just get it under the water level to get the air out of the line. You've got some serious drain power with two 1.5" drain lines
__________________
That's what I think, and I think I'm right!!! :-p |
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#16
09/30/2007, 06:11 PM
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Wait a second. You've got two 1.5" drain lines draining to your sump? And you said you didn't have too much flow going through your sump?
__________________
That's what I think, and I think I'm right!!! :-p |
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#19
09/30/2007, 06:23 PM
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If you put a gate valve on the bottom of your drain and close it off till the water backs up above the bulkhead/standpipe in your overflow box, then your drain will be totally silent. The downside is you run the risk of a blockage and subsequent tank overflow or dry return pump. If you have a return line or secord drain already drilled into your tank, you can use it as an emergency drain and eliminate the risk. See this thread for details. http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...hreadid=344892
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#20
09/30/2007, 06:27 PM
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whoa, a bunch of new posts since I opened this thread... you can still use a valve, just make a higher standpipe on the second bulkhead. It might be a bit touchier since the backpressure on the valve is related to the height of the water, which wont have a lot of room to vary on a setup like yours.
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#22
09/30/2007, 06:50 PM
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If I want to have something like the link in burris' post then couldn't I turn one overflown down like it has been suggested and leave one pointing up as it is.
The one pointing down would be the main drain to which I could attach a gate valve allowing me to let it fill up with water. The other drain would be used as an emergency in case the first one got clogged at the gate valve. Of course the gate valve would have to be installed before the 2 drains become one. That would leave air in the rest of the piping down to the sump though. Not sure if that would make a difference. Does this make sense or am I off somewhere? |
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#23
09/30/2007, 06:56 PM
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You could also consider much less flow to your sump and use the second drain as an independant closed loop with a little plumbing work. The closed loop would be reletively quiet and give you lots of flow to the tank. The second drain line could be reduced down to restrict the flow rate through the sump and would allow the sump to be very efficient and hopefully quiet too.
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That's what I think, and I think I'm right!!! :-p |
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#25
09/30/2007, 07:31 PM
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Quote:
JoeMomma doesn't have an overflow box. His drainlines act as his surface skimming overflows. I have a very similar drain arrangement, but something troubles me about JoeMommas: why does his water drain to the sump "intermittently"? Are you saying that the water level in your sump constantly fluctuates up and down? Do your drain lines discharge under the water surface in your sump? You should make each drain line independent of the other if you have two 1.5" lines merging into one 1.5" line. Make sure the top of both drains (where water overflows them) are at exactly the same height. These suggestions should solve the "intermittent" issue.
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some common aquarium nuisances: Bryopsis,Derbesia(hair algae),Cyanobacteria(red slime), Diatoms(golden brown algae), Dinoflagellates(gooey air bubbles),Valonia (bubble algae) |
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