building internal overflow and plumbing help

OC CJ · #1 09/29/2007, 04:58 PM

hey guys, might be buying a tank tonight. i was going to have them drill three holes for me... 2 in each upper corner for the returns and 1 in the bottom left corner for an overflow.

The thing is, i've never added an overflow to a tank before and don't know how to do it. also, never plumbed a tank before so i would need help with that as well.

Is there anyone near long beach that could help me out with this possibly tomorrow? I don't exactly know what supplies i would need other than some black acyrlic and silicone. i know i'll need some bulkheads but not sure where to get those and what i need. hopefully OC aquatics where i might purchase the tank has some with some nozzle returns. I'd also like to setup a durso for the quiteness but don't know how to do that either.

Sorry guys but i need a lot of help on this to get it going.

CJ

reef_doug · #2 09/29/2007, 05:07 PM

CJ, I personally would not modify a tank by adding an internal overflow. The connection between the overflow and the rest of the aquarium must be water tight, even though both "sides" will contain water. This is because if a bulkhead leaks you will end up with the whole contents on the ground and not just the overflow's volume. Also if the internal overflow is acrylic and the tank is glass, the silicone sometimes does not provide a good seal on the acrylic side. I would look into adding an external overflow before adding an internal one.

OC CJ · #3 09/29/2007, 05:11 PM

really? then how do all these glass tanks have internal overflows? i don't know what it is but i've always been scared of external overflows? i could just see it losing sucktion and overflowing my tank and flooding my house.

ycnibrc · #4 09/29/2007, 07:12 PM

hi oc cj
you have to have a check valve for your return to the tank so water don't siphon back to the sum when you loose power or turn of pump. Over flow inside your main tank only allow so much water drain to the sum then it will stop since the water level inside the tank go below your overflow box. Where are you going to buy the tank from LFS or from individual? Is it a brand new tank or used?most manefacture do a good job on the silicon of the overflow box but DIY then it will be a different story.

OC CJ · #5 09/29/2007, 07:22 PM

well, if i get the tank tonight it will be from oc aquatics but it does't have an overflow. it will be roughly 100 bucks more to add one in so i figured i could pay them to drill the whole and install one myself. the more i think about that though the more i don't want to do that in case it leaks and trying to cut the little slots at the top would be difficult. so what kind of check valve do i need to run an external? do overflow boxes usually come with them?

Macimage · #6 09/29/2007, 10:14 PM

It will be well worth it in the long run to purchase a reef ready tank with an internal overflow. I would suggest you shop around a bit or drive a bit further to find a tank that has a factory installed internal overflow. You'll be the happiest with it. The tank is a crucial component.

You may even want to look through the RC classifieds for a great used tank buy if you are looking to save a some money. I've seen reef tank setups going for 1/2 what they would cost new.

Joyce

dattack · #7 09/30/2007, 02:18 AM

Just put a stand pipe near the bottom of the teeth of the overflow and you should be fine. Even if there is a leak in your seal, the tank will only empty to the level of the standpipe anyways.

Bergovoy · #8 09/30/2007, 09:27 AM

overflows in glass tanks usually have glass walls, with acrylic pieces laminated over the glass...

The glass is siliconed inplace and is water tight so that theonly water tht will go out the hole, hopefully into the bulkhead, is the water in the overflow. And if you put a stand pipe in, and it dont leak at the bottom, at the that damned bulkhead, it will only drain down to the TOP of the standpipe...

But bottom line is,it is will worth the money, $100 to have them install the overflow...

And I would suggest, THREE holes in the bottom, 1-1/2 inch for the drain, and two return lines..

You can then run the returns up throughthe overflow, and through the acrylic portion on the top, (the glass part only goes up about 2/3 the way to the top)

If youwant more holes, for mayby a closed loop, (so yuo dont useor see powerheads), then drill 3 or five holes in the back, (in the corners, and the odd one towards the center, ner or or to the side of the overflow, and about two thirds the way to teh bottom, (this is for the suction line of the closed loop.)

Check out www.oceansmotions.com

Anyways, spend themoney, get it done right, and dont have to think about that part ofthe tank again...

jmho

Bill