Jacks 125 begins - Page 4

chrismunn · #76 08/28/2006, 08:36 PM

cool

gordon903 · #77 08/29/2006, 07:59 PM

the top picture is an over all look at the stain but the closeup really highlights the trim maybe tomorrow i can start the finish its been hard to find time been working doubles the body is running on empty just like every reefers bank acount so i keep working

gordon903 · #78 08/30/2006, 07:02 PM

i started to put the finish on the canopy i should have 2 coats on before i quite tonight the first coat looks good i bet the second will really give it a good gloss i chose brushable lauqer dries in 30 minutes hope to have pic tomorrow

gordon903 · #79 09/02/2006, 05:21 AM

im running a tidepool for my sump and the bio wheel is missing if any one has one please let me know other wise i think ill just use ruble rock in the sump instead

gordon903 · #80 09/04/2006, 04:00 PM

i assy the moonlight kit today took about a hour works real nice it has 5 leds cant waut for dark to see how it looks on my 46 i will only be able to get 3 leds over the tank but it shoul give me a good idea to see if it is enough or do i need more leds i can run 26 with this transformer so give me your thoughts

chrismunn · #81 09/04/2006, 06:22 PM

what color are the leds? red doesnt spook most nocturnal critters, so that color is ideal for nightime veiwing of the tank.

i had 1 led over my 10 gallon and it acted like a dim spotlight. so for your 46g i would use quite a few. not sure how many though? you wouldnt want it to be too bright.

gordon903 · #82 09/04/2006, 07:26 PM

they are blue and they are wide angle but i am making this light for my 125 just testing on my 46

gordon903 · #83 09/04/2006, 08:06 PM

well it is dark and the 3 that are over the tank light the whole tank on the 46 so i think the 5 will be perfect for the 125 time is getting close for the setup last week in sept so one more project finished the moonlights

chrismunn · #84 09/04/2006, 09:18 PM

cool

gordon903 · #85 09/07/2006, 07:37 PM

took the moonlight to my buddys fish store put it on one of his 125s it lite the whole tank nicely he was so impressed he has already took orders for 6 lights so maybe i can supliment my hobby for more product

usmcsgt · #86 09/07/2006, 08:27 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by gordon903
just arrived my diy moonlight kit 5 wide angle blue led bulbs dimmer control and box the wire transformer and plug resistors and heat sink im mounting them in 3/8 inch plastic the length of the tank nice kit and cheap 28 bucks delivered to the door

Where did you order these Moonlights from?

gordon903 · #87 09/08/2006, 04:41 AM

i ordered the kit from www.thelebos.com i mounted the lights in a strip for hiding electrical cables i bought it at lowes it comes in 2 peices the strip and cover the strip has 2 way tape so you can mount it its about 3/4 inch wide and about 1/2 high 5 foot long you can cut it down if it is to long for your tank the kit is under diy moonlight i ordered the 5 light i did not get the lunar simulator just the dimmer but i dont think you need the dimmer comes with a large diy manual i will post pic of the light this weekend you can buy the parts seperate you can save money that way because they charge dor the book i can send you an assy diagram and you just order the parts you need figured it the parts are about 15 bucks plus freight so 20 bucks and lowes about8 bucks i can send a list of what you need if you would like pm me

gordon903 · #88 09/09/2006, 08:38 PM

does anyone wash there sand and reuse it

chrismunn · #89 09/09/2006, 11:16 PM

ive gone further than washing my sand. i cooked on the stove top before! my lord did that smell awfull!
i have a bunch of sand from a 15 year old system sitting in a tank with no flow for like 5 months. eventually it began to buildup pockets of hydrogen sulfide, but i still wanted to re-use it.
i washed it a buch of time in fresh water and salt water, and then (literally) cooked it stovetop on a cookie sheet, and dried it in my back yard on some news paper. this was all against the recommendation of randy holmes-farley, from the chemistry forum here on RC. he said to throw it away, which i should have done. i ended up using the sand for a DSB, and nothing bad ever happend.

gordon903 · #90 09/10/2006, 06:07 PM

how much sand do you like on the bottom and do you put your rock on the bottom then your sand around the rock trying to get a idea before setup day i put the sand first in the last tank then the rock but someone said that could cause a problem with fish that burrow in the sand the rock could fall need some opions

gordon903 · #91 09/10/2006, 08:21 PM

well started the stain on the cabinet doors today and was thinking should i paint the inside of the stand white so it has more light i will have my sump and my qt tank under the stand

chrismunn · #92 09/10/2006, 09:04 PM

isnt that water proof paint white? the marine grade stuff? ide think that the rocks before the sand would be safer due to the reasons stated by you. but if you only have like a half inch to two inches of sand it may not make a difference? a sand bed that shallow normally means when you place the rock they will dig in untill they hit the bottom glass anyways. if you go with a deep sand bed it may be a different story?

gordon903 · #93 09/11/2006, 04:45 AM

thanks hope for new pics tonight or tomorow

gordon903 · #94 09/12/2006, 08:15 PM

this is the diy moonlight looks nice but looks better in person give me your thoughts

gordon903 · #95 09/14/2006, 04:46 AM

bump

gordon903 · #96 09/16/2006, 07:57 AM

my tank has to over flows tank drilled in the bottom the question is since the overflows are adjustable sand tubes do i need ball valves on the plumbing below the tank by the sump

gordon903 · #97 09/16/2006, 08:27 AM

does a phosban reactor really help alge

chrismunn · #98 09/16/2006, 03:36 PM

are thoes moonlights illuminating a dresser? i swear i see dresser drawers?
i dont think ball valves after the overflow will hurt anything. they would probably serve some usefull purpose, none of which i can think of off hand. but in any case, they could prove to be a wise addition.
if you have phosphates then yes, a phosban reactor will help. not neccasarily to remove algae, but deffinatly phosphates. if you were to have an algae problem due to phosphates alone, then the phosphate reactor will help to correct the problem. although, if there are other contributors to a nuisance algae problem, (excessive bio-load, high nutrients, so on and so forth) then the phosban reactor will not do the job alone, and the other contributors should be taken into account, and the correction should be made.
with regular water changes, and proper mainenance and husbandry techniques, excessive phosphates shouldnt create much of an issue, but the reactor will prove to be a good resource to fall back on should the problem of high phosphate concentrations occur.

MyMonkey · #99 09/16/2006, 04:17 PM

Ball valve after the overflow? Not sure what that will do. Adjustable overflow? If so, might work. Otherwise, I would be concerned about it restricting the flow. I think ball valves on the return line are a great idea. Allows you to fine tune the flow.

chrismunn · #**100** 09/16/2006, 04:31 PM

i had a thought about flow restriction myself, but in most cases the inside diameter in the valve matches that of the pipe its attached to.
i wouldnt imagine flow restiction on your overflow being a safe idea. the amount of water coming from your overflow should only be dictated by the size of pump your using. if you restrict the flow allowed to pass through the overflow, there is na extreme chance that the overflow will no longer be able to keep up with the capcity of water entering the tank via return pump, therby overflowing the display.
easier said, there will be more water pumped into the tank, than can drain out of the tank, resulting in an overflow. then as your pump puts water into the display that overflow onto the ground, it empties your sump. as soon as your sump empties, your pumps run dry, and eventually burn out.
valves on the overflow may be used for simple maintainence. for example, you may need to stop flow to your sump for some reason, so you can close the valves, shut off your return pumps, and do a water change lets say?
im sure there are a number of activities you can preform that might call for a valve on your drain, like i said before, i cant think of any good ones off hand, but i dont imagine flow restriction would be a good one