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#251
10/14/2006, 11:40 PM
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Quote:
If you have room I would go for 2 660 ballasts and run 5 T5's and a 5 ft VHO actinic. You can run T5's and VHO's on the same IC ballast. I'd go 1 GE, 1 Geisemann Midday, 1 ATI Aquablue and the 2 ATI Blue Plus and the VHO Actinic. Pay attention to the brands. In the 54 watt T5's the ATI has better output, I assume 80 watt lamps are the same. Like Hahn said if you go for the 5 T5's only and want a brighter look swap out one of the aquablues but I would use the Geisemann Midday so you would have that and a GE daylight instead of 2 of one or the other.
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Grim tells it like it is. Last year the SEC was the strongest conference but overrated. This year they were just overrated. |
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#252
10/15/2006, 01:11 AM
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ok, since this seems to be the definative internet thread (referred to over 30 times from different sites that ihave visited), i am looking for some definative answers about my T5's!
I have had these T5's running for 8 months now, and i want to know, do i have enough/the right kind of lights for Clams(blue maxima) and sps corals. I am running 2 actinic, 2 blue+, 1 6k daylight and one 6500k daylight. This is my unit http://www.specialty-lights.com/960040.html I have had one maxima clam die, and i am seeing one green pocillopora (recently moved up in the tank,a nd into direct light) start to bleach. Do i have too much light with those two items at 1/2-3/4 the way up the 24" tank? (90G) Or is it not enough? The two anemones seem to love it, and hammer coral is doing well, all my mushrooms lay flat, none reach up like i saw in the lfs under MH. The reason im asking is i want to order 2 acroporas and a purple montipora frags, but ot without knowing that i have adaquate lighting for them. I know its not a lot of watts/gallon, but was wondering about the PAR's with the TEK light setup i showed up top there. the bulbs are now 8 months old. Thanks for any info. |
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#253
10/15/2006, 02:19 AM
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As long as you keep the acros up in the tank they should be fine.
Dunno what to tell you about the bleaching. People have had issues with SPS lightening up under T5's but if your coral is bleaching I would move it back down some. I would ditch the actinic lamps. Get yourself a ATI Blue Plus and a UVL Super actinic. The look will be better and you will get a lot more PAR with those. I would also grab a GE 3000K lamp and try it in place of the GE Daylight and then the 6000K midday to see what you think. It has better output and does nice things to pink and purple corals becaus of the red. Reefgeek will have those lamps. The lamp is chap and it never hurts to have a spare lamp around if you dont like the look, Stick with ATI, UV Lighting and GE lamps where you can.
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Grim tells it like it is. Last year the SEC was the strongest conference but overrated. This year they were just overrated. |
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#254
10/15/2006, 08:49 AM
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I wouldnt be looking at the T5s as the reason your clam died. Clams are in direct control of how much light they get, and if given too much they just dont expand as much until they reduce their symbiotic algae count or increase their reflective pigments. Even if given too little light, clams will hold on for quite some time before bleaching and dying. If it was a smaller maxima, FWIW, they can be touchy no matter what. IME, any maxima less than 3" has an increased risk of dying suddenly for no apparent reason. Others have reported this as well.
The green poscii was no doubt getting too much light. Poscii and Stylo types seem to be among the most sensitive when it comes to light increases right next to some montipora species. For new acros, I start them out on the bottom so they can acclimate to the chemistry first, then I begin to move them up the tank until they look about right. But keep in mind that with so many acros coming from other systems that are halide, almost every coral will go through an adjustment phase where it may brown out or show odd coloration for a few weeks, or even a few months until it adjusts. But once it adjusts... man, watch out! I have never had such blue corals as those I have under my T5s. My purple millis turned green for a few months while they encrusted, but after that... they turned hot pinkish-purple with deep blue tips. And my blue milli (bright royal blue) turned neon compared to under the halides. I think Im at the point where I have too much blue really... need to throw a sun bulb or two into the mix to even things out.
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"If at first, the idea is not absurd, then there is no hope for it" -Al Einstein |
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#255
10/15/2006, 11:27 AM
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Hi Grim,
Can you please explain the difference between ATI T5 80W Blue plus and Osram T5 80W Blue ? Which one would you use ? Thx. |
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#256
10/15/2006, 11:49 AM
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I would use the ATI based on being a known quantity. I don't know anything about the Osram lamp, for all I know they could be the same.
__________________
Grim tells it like it is. Last year the SEC was the strongest conference but overrated. This year they were just overrated. |
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#257
10/15/2006, 02:24 PM
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This looks like the perfect thread to ask this question--
I currently have a 72 gal display with SPS frags in the top half and some LPS and a clam near the bottom. I currenty run (2) 250w 20,000K Ushios and (2) T5 54w true actinic. Yes... I love the blue look. I want to add (2) T5 bulbs that will add more PAR, yet still maintain the blue look (blueish white would be okay). I found a (2) bulb T5 fixture on clearance at a good price so I bought it. So, now I have room for two more T5 bulbs... what kind should I buy? In summary-- I want a pair of T5's that will add a good amount of PAR yet still look pretty blue. I plan on the actinics coming on first, then the new T5's, then the MH. That should create a nice dusk to dawn.
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Sometimes I wake up grumpy. Other times, I let her sleep. |
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#258
10/15/2006, 04:49 PM
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Seeing as how your sig talks mean about USC I would suggest a couple of Catalina blues
 I would try 1 ATI Aquablue which is blue/white and a Blue Plus which is a 20Kish blue. Both have good PAR. UCLA STINKS!!!
__________________
Grim tells it like it is. Last year the SEC was the strongest conference but overrated. This year they were just overrated. |
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#259
10/15/2006, 05:52 PM
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Quote:
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#260
10/15/2006, 06:43 PM
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U niversity of
S poiled C hildren
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Sometimes I wake up grumpy. Other times, I let her sleep. |
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#261
10/15/2006, 06:53 PM
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U selss
C ollege L oses A gain
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Grim tells it like it is. Last year the SEC was the strongest conference but overrated. This year they were just overrated. |
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#262
10/15/2006, 06:54 PM
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Grim, for a planted tank, or one where just pure sun bulbs / PAR monsters would be used... which would have a higher output IYO? A 5000-6500K halide or the same wattage of sun 3000-6500K T5's? Thank god Im a UW-Madison grad...
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"If at first, the idea is not absurd, then there is no hope for it" -Al Einstein |
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#263
10/15/2006, 08:12 PM
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Quote:
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#264
10/15/2006, 10:42 PM
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Quote:
__________________
Grim tells it like it is. Last year the SEC was the strongest conference but overrated. This year they were just overrated. |
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#265
10/16/2006, 12:27 AM
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So, watt for watt, would the 3000K have a higher output than say... a Iwasaki 6500K?
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"If at first, the idea is not absurd, then there is no hope for it" -Al Einstein |
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#266
10/16/2006, 12:48 AM
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A 250 watt Iwasaki running on an Ice Cap ballast is going to pull what, 240~250 watts and cover better than a 2x2 foot section of tank but for the sake of argument lets say 2x2 (Lumenarc reflector) Based on a reading a guy took with a 15K 175 watt Saki the 250 is going to hit the bottom of a 20" tank with PAR of 350 or so. Lets say over a 48x24x20" tank you would use 500 watts to get that 350 to the bottom with halides. an 8 lamp Ice Cap T5 system would use 606 watts or so and even running all 3000K lamps I really doubt it would break 250 at the bottom.
But for a planted tank how much penetration do you need? I think normally driven T5 would be the most efficient method to light the tank.
__________________
Grim tells it like it is. Last year the SEC was the strongest conference but overrated. This year they were just overrated. |
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#267
10/16/2006, 02:10 AM
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Thats what I was thinking... how much do you really need... what it really came down to was this...
http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...19#post8346319 Im thinking that since 250s arent going to be the case, that the smaller amount of T5 wattage used would do a better job.
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"If at first, the idea is not absurd, then there is no hope for it" -Al Einstein |
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#268
10/16/2006, 09:30 AM
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Hey guys... I currently have a 8x54watt Teklight fixture. Its only running on 4 GE daylight 6500k bulbs. I would like a crisp cool blue look to my tank. I'm thinking of ordering 2- ATI Aquablue bulbs and 2- ATI Blue Plus bulbs.
And would this order achieve what i want? Or will this be too white? I just dont want the yellowish or greenish look. 1. Blue plus 2. 6500k 3. Aquablue 4. 6500k 5. 6500k 6. Aquablue 7. 6500k 8. Blue plus |
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#269
10/16/2006, 11:06 AM
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Take out Number 2 and number 7 6500K's and use UVL Super Actinics in those slots instead. Swap number 3 Aquablue and number 4 GE's positions and you should be set. The Aquablues produce about as much PAR as the GE lamp and the blue plus isn't than far behind so you will have good intensity.
__________________
Grim tells it like it is. Last year the SEC was the strongest conference but overrated. This year they were just overrated. |
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#270
10/16/2006, 11:11 AM
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Quote:
Generally speaking T5's are more efficient than halides, otherise youd be seeing people changing from T5 to halides for commercial and industrial purposes instead of the opposit. I would put T5's up against halides watt for watt if the halide is running in anything but a lumenarc reflector.
__________________
Grim tells it like it is. Last year the SEC was the strongest conference but overrated. This year they were just overrated. |
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#272
10/16/2006, 11:13 AM
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You may need to play with the center 4 positions to get the look you want but that will get you damn close.
__________________
Grim tells it like it is. Last year the SEC was the strongest conference but overrated. This year they were just overrated. |
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#274
10/16/2006, 11:31 AM
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http://www.reefgeek.com/products/cat...ng/104952.html
it's on their site still. did you call them?
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Sam |
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