105 gallon inwall installation with pictures - Page 3

H20ENG · #51 12/18/2007, 06:49 PM

A few things I see that you may want to consider. Forgive me if you already know about them

:

Is your hot tub in your basement too? Or outside? Your hot tub will give off WAY more water vapor than your tank. You will definitely have to run the dehumidifiers or add a larger exhaust than a bathroom fan. Also look at HRVs to save on heating while exhausting. They will temper the incoming replacement air.

You may want to set your sump on a piece of styrofoam board. The concrete floor will suck the heat out of your sump and your heater will run a lot more, wasting energy.

I see 2 extra outlets from your pump back to the sump. Will these be running reactors or is it simply a bypass line? If a bypass, there is no need. You can restrict the pump (discharge, never the suction) to get the flow you need. The pump will move less water and therefore use less wattage

No harm to the pump whatsoever.

I sure see a lot of glass tanks right next to pool tables!!! I would be scared!

I think mflamb(?) uses a heavy curtain during play to absorb the shock of any stray balls.

Nice work

Chris

Radicaljbr · #52 12/18/2007, 11:06 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by H20ENG
A few things I see that you may want to consider. Forgive me if you already know about them:

Is your hot tub in your basement too? Or outside? Your hot tub will give off WAY more water vapor than your tank. You will definitely have to run the dehumidifiers or add a larger exhaust than a bathroom fan. Also look at HRVs to save on heating while exhausting. They will temper the incoming replacement air.

You may want to set your sump on a piece of styrofoam board. The concrete floor will suck the heat out of your sump and your heater will run a lot more, wasting energy.

I see 2 extra outlets from your pump back to the sump. Will these be running reactors or is it simply a bypass line? If a bypass, there is no need. You can restrict the pump (discharge, never the suction) to get the flow you need. The pump will move less water and therefore use less wattage No harm to the pump whatsoever.

I sure see a lot of glass tanks right next to pool tables!!! I would be scared! I think mflamb(?) uses a heavy curtain during play to absorb the shock of any stray balls.

Nice work
Chris

Thank you so much for your comments. Besides posting to let family and friends and fellow refeers see what I am doing, I also posted this thread to get feedback like yours in case I missed something and to get ideas.

The Hot Tub is in the house, but I am taking it out. I am actually going to steel the electric lines to run my tank room, but that is one of my next projects. I am also going to use the exhaust fan they had setup for the tub as it goes through the tank room. I filled the hot tub up shortly after we moved in and it leaked everywhere. It flooded the hot tub room, the pool table room, the bath room and the utility room which is also now part tank room. So it is coming out. I already took most of the pumps and pipes out which were in the tank/utility room. The actual hot tub will have to be sawed out I think. Project for later.

I did think about lifting the tank up off the concrete as I did think abou tthe roomatism (spelling bad, but term for concrete sucking heat out). The only thing is that my MHs have always created too much heat so I thought this might even it out. I plan on keeping an eye on this and can always lift it up.

The two extra outlet are used to go back to the sump heating section and the fuge. I need some flow going through my fuge, but I also have one outlet going to the middle part so I can adjust flow to the tank in case I have too much going through my tank. I guess I never thought about just cutting off the supply to the tank and having less watts used. I am going to the tank now to turn off that water to the sump and tweak down the water to the tank and so I thank you.

The pool table is a real concern and so I mounted the rack on the other side so when breaking balls people would be going away from the table. I thought about a sign which read something like no jumping balls towards the tank. The curtain is a great idea and I will consider this.

Thank you so much for your comments!!

H20ENG · #53 12/19/2007, 01:14 AM

You Betcha

Glad to hear you wont have to deal with hot tub humidity, but how cool would it be to sit in the hottub with a cocktail and watch the tank!

Radicaljbr · #54 12/19/2007, 12:24 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by H20ENG
You Betcha

Glad to hear you wont have to deal with hot tub humidity, but how cool would it be to sit in the hottub with a cocktail and watch the tank!

Now you're talking!!

Radicaljbr · #55 12/19/2007, 06:06 PM

I have 2 300 watt Finnex titanium heating tubes that were controlled by the Finnex HC-0810 controller. The controller went bad and I guess they do not make it any more.

Anyone know of a good controller that will run these tubes for me?

Or should I switch and get a different heating method?

H20ENG · #56 12/19/2007, 07:02 PM

Ranco ETC digital controllers (~$70) are the best thing going for heaters. They are accurate and will keep from killing your tank from heater control failure. If you spend a little more($~100) for the 2 stage controllers, it will control heating and cooling from the same controller. Just need to waterproof the sensor with some heat shrink and silicone. Good stuff.

Its a good idea to use a Ranco controller even if your heater controls are working. They are cheap and unreliable, no matter what heater you use. Best to have backup protection.

Radicaljbr · #57 12/19/2007, 07:57 PM

How do you waterproof the sensor? Where do you find this heat shrink?

Thanks

H20ENG · #58 12/19/2007, 08:01 PM

The sensor is already embedded in a plastic tube. You use heat shrink tubing (found at radioshack or home depot) to seal it against the wire jacketing. You could use silicone, but heat shrink is better.

Radicaljbr · #59 12/19/2007, 08:13 PM

I guess I would have to see it to understand it. What happens if you do not seal it? Will it rust or will shock the tank with electricity? What is it you are sealing if the sensor is alreay in plastic.

Sorry, I am just trying to picture this in my head.

Radicaljbr · #60 12/19/2007, 08:50 PM

Sorry, one last question. Do you know where to buy one?

H20ENG · #61 12/19/2007, 08:57 PM

Make sure you get the 120V model, not 24v as used with refrigeration or AC units.

http://search.ebay.com/search/search...etc&category0=

Here is the unit showing the sensor. The sensor is a low voltage device, just a thermistor. A leak wont short the tank, just give the wrong reading or maybe short the controller. One end of the little tube is closed, so you'll want to heat shrink against the tube and the cord. The heat shrink is a thin plastic tubing that you slide over the joint (used for solder joints in electronics, etc). Heat it with a heat gun or lighter and it shrinks tightly to the joint, sealing it.

H20ENG · #62 12/19/2007, 09:01 PM

This guy can supply it with a Titanium probe. I wonder how much?

http://cgi.ebay.com/Ranco-Electronic...QQcmdZViewItem

H20ENG · #63 12/19/2007, 09:02 PM

Do you know how to wire? LMK if you need a hand.

erics3000 · #64 12/19/2007, 09:52 PM

i have been thinking on how to controll my heating and cooling too. I was hinking about going with neptune controller to do this. This is a cool alternative.

H20 what are your thoughts pros and cons. I am going to get a conroller either way.

Radical Have you thought about a controller? you can get a neptune jr for a decent price.

H20ENG · #65 12/19/2007, 09:59 PM

It all depends on how much you want to control. The Neptune will probably give you more control points for the money vs individual controllers for things like lighting timer, pH,ORP, Temp, moonlight,wavemaking, etc.

But its a steep entry fee for most. By doing the important controls first- Temp & ltg, you can get started quickly. Ltg controls can be $5 mechanical timers. If you ever upgrade to the all in one controls, you can still use the Ranco for backup or sell it for $toward the cost of the Neptune,etc.

erics3000 · #66 12/20/2007, 01:13 AM

thanks...

Radicaljbr · #67 12/23/2007, 11:26 AM

Updates:

Thanks for the suggestions on a controller. Before I run out and buy a Ranco, I talked to Finnex and they are sending me a new probe for $5. I hope this will get me going again on the heat. If not, Ranco will be the way I go more than likely, unless I see something better.

Up unitl now, my trash cans and now tank, have been powered by various extension cords running from different rooms of our lower level.

Below is a picture of my new elcetrical work. I am done with the construction now and will be installing it today. I am putting a 20 amp GFCI breaker in the main panel which will protect the enitire line. It has already been tested and should work fine. Will post another picture after it is hanging on the wall and is working.

Thanks and Merry Christmas!!

Hop · #68 12/23/2007, 11:42 AM

Looks good! Will those all be for one or more than one circuit?

Radicaljbr · #69 12/23/2007, 11:48 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Hop
Looks good! Will those all be for one or more than one circuit?

Right now they are all tied to one 20 amp GFCI circuit breaker. I can always split as I do have another "hot" line cpped off inside because I used 12-3. I figure for now it should be good, because I do not have a ton of watts. I added them up and came up with 1200. If I ever get more things pulling more electric, I can split them off to two different circuits.

Why do you ask? Do you see any potential problems?

Thanks

PS....Tag your it.

We are responding back and forth on two fifferent threads right now. Kind of funny.

H20ENG · #70 12/26/2007, 11:25 AM

Glad you used the plastic boxes and conduit. They are worth every penny.
I'm sure you're all done now, but I would not run the whole thing from one GFI. Better to put the GFIs in the boxes. This way if one trips, you'll know which equipment caused it, and at the same time, the other equipment will still run. Less chance of a tank crash.
Day late and a dollar short, I know, sorry

.

Radicaljbr · #71 12/28/2007, 10:49 PM

Okay, here is a new look at my electical all set in place. I really love it!!

I also have a small sand storm again from moving my powerheads a little to deal with a brown algea bloom I am starting to go through.

Anyone have suggestions on the brown algea bloom? I think I just need to wait it out and change my +1 year old MH bulbs.

Thanks

Radicaljbr · #72 12/28/2007, 10:51 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by H20ENG
Glad you used the plastic boxes and conduit. They are worth every penny.
I'm sure you're all done now, but I would not run the whole thing from one GFI. Better to put the GFIs in the boxes. This way if one trips, you'll know which equipment caused it, and at the same time, the other equipment will still run. Less chance of a tank crash.
Day late and a dollar short, I know, sorry.

Yes I am all done and I went with the GFCI breaker in the panel, but thanks for the suggestions!!

Radicaljbr · #73 01/10/2008, 10:29 AM

Okay, so now my brown algea has been replaced by this green algea. I know everyone says this is a cycle and will go away in 2 to 3 weeks, but I do not believe it. This green algea is covering everything.

Should I leave the lights on (how much?) or should I leave them off? Right now I have them off with just a couple of hours over my fuge which does have macro and some little slugs, stars and so on.

There have been no feading. I am sure most of this is from the die off of the rocks being in holding tanks for so long.

But, will this really go away on its own?

poppin_fresh · #74 01/10/2008, 10:42 AM

I would turn off the lights on the main tank and get some GFO (phosban) running asap. My guess is that theres a ton of phosphate in that rock that will need to be absorbed out.

Kreeger1 · #75 01/10/2008, 10:58 AM

I would turn the lights off and run some gfo as well. Run some carbon too. I'd also add another power head to the other side. The algae free maxi jet mod that salty critter sells would be a cheap route to go that will give you a ton of flow.

What are your nitrate and phos readings?
Erik