240 Inwall Construction (Image Intense) - Page 14

weatherson · #**326** 09/25/2003, 01:45 PM

StroKnight: First of all, I am no qualified electrician so take this for what it's worth. The easy route would be to total your amperage of all the equipment and see if you are overloading the current circuit. Remember to add all other non-tank devices from the same circuit. If you are not exceeding the circuit breakers rated amperage, just add a power strip or two to gain more plug receptacles. If you are exceeding the breaker, you will need to add a new circuit. If you are not comfortable or experienced with working with electricity, by all means, hire a qualified electrician. If you are capable and willing considering the hazards involved, you may want to first pick up a how-to book specific to wiring. These are great sources of information on how to do this the proper way. You'll also need to consider your local codes. In addition, always turn the power off before working on any electrical project. With that said, it's pretty straight forward but no easy task. I say that because it may involve climbing in your attic or, slightly easier, in your basement. I have attic wiring as basements are not utilized in my area. So, you would first run the Romex wire from the breaker box all the way to the point where you want to add the outlet. This could involve fishing the line through the walls after drilling through studs and headers, careful to not damage existing wiring. You can find retrofit double (or more) gang outlet boxes that require you to enlarge your existing hole or create a new one. Then connect the wires to the new receptacle and mount it in the new box. You'll need to get a compatible breaker for your breaker box of the needed amperage. I used two 30 amp for my setup. If the box is of a new design, the breakers simply snap in place in a open location. Then wire the new line to the breaker box for this breaker. This is where there are differences and you need to follow the same configuration as the existing wiring. Again, this is not a project for the faint of heart or inexperienced as the results can be deadly, as in dead.

I have been wiring and rewiring for many years now so I have experience but still a great respect for the power of electricity. Pun intended.

weatherson · #**327** 09/25/2003, 02:14 PM

lemmiwinks: While I can understand the thoughts and recommendations you mention in regards to sand-sifting Gobies, there are a few factors I feel need to be taken into account as well. If you have a relatively deep sand bed, they typically only disrupt the top 1/4" so there's plenty of room below. Also, if you have a large tank there's always going to be some areas where they have no access. And, about a quarter of the time, they are grazing on the rocks. As with everything, there are tradeoffs. In this case, I feel the benefits out way the negatives.

weatherson · #**328** 09/25/2003, 02:34 PM

Snoopdog: Let's use my previous sump room as an example, although different in design from the current fish room. In there I had the sump with one of the muffin fans blowing air through it. There were no excessive amounts of air bubbles surfacing the water within so there was no visual evidence of salt spray. In this room, I had my weight machine, which has many assembly bolts holding it together. Every one of these is completely rusted. The door handle on the door of this room completely tarnished. All with no direct exposure to the salt water. So yes, I feel these confined areas are corrosive in nature. This and the fact that both sump and much larger tank were to be in the same room prompted me to use every possible means to evacuate the air and seal items in the new fish room as best possible. As far as the bath board, yes, I would say it's essential due to the higher humidity levels in this room. In reality, regular wallboard is like a sponge and easily transfers moisture through walls. This is why I also put many coats of quality paint on all the walls in this room. I would have preferred to re-sheetrock the whole room in bath board but the one wall of the tank had to suffice. If I were starting from scratch as you are, I would treat this room no differently than a bathroom with all walls treated so.

weatherson · #**329** 09/25/2003, 02:43 PM

Jamesurq: I was thinking of a fully automated mixing system with electric solenoids to control water addition and a similar control for adding the proper amount of salt not unlike those "away on vacation" timed dog feeders. Then a timer starts the mixing pump and heater for a given amount of time and then turns off. Then, a level controlled, motorized ball valve opens and removes the proper amount of water from the tank. Next another motorized ball valve opens and adds the newly mixed salt-water to the tank and the whole process begins again in one month.

For now, I think I can handle this antiquated manual system.

Jamesurq · #**330** 09/25/2003, 02:49 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by weatherson
Jamesurq: I was thinking of a fully automated mixing system with electric solenoids to control water addition and a similar control for adding the proper amount of salt not unlike those "away on vacation" timed dog feeders. Then a timer starts the mixing pump and heater for a given amount of time and then turns off. Then, a level controlled, motorized ball valve opens and removes the proper amount of water from the tank. Next another motorized ball valve opens and adds the newly mixed salt-water to the tank and the whole process begins again in one month. For now, I think I can handle this antiquated manual system.

Now you're just getting lazy!!!!!

"Man - these 8 hour work weeks are killing me" ~ George Jetson...

weatherson · #**331** 09/25/2003, 02:54 PM

lilbuddy: Thanks for the kind words. Here's something to consider though; I can convert this room back to a bedroom with minimal time and effort should we decide to move. For instance, the hole in the wall could easily be sheet rocked over with stand and tank removed. Lay some carpet, remove the task light and cap off the plumbing in the wall for the sink and patch the sheet rock holes. Fresh paint and presto! Bedroom again.

Seriously, this was a consideration and I thought this through in advance. None of this is irreversible.

weatherson · #**332** 09/25/2003, 03:04 PM

Jamesurq: You say lazy, I say automated time saver.

For those out there that read that post, I was joking. Sometimes my humor can be as elaborately designed as some of my actual reef projects.

lilbuddy · #**333** 09/25/2003, 03:25 PM

weatherson,
a bedroom would be one thing where I want mine i would have to convert my dining room to a fish room and no way is the miss's down with that.

Anyway I think your tank is awesome. I bow down to you my friend.

Oh yeah I think james was just kidding

Typhon · #**334** 09/25/2003, 04:15 PM

weatherson.. Great looking tank.. I have read this entire thread and it seems like you have thought of everything!!!!!

I am going to have to borrow some of your ideas when I go to my 180g next year.

Travis · #**335** 09/25/2003, 06:10 PM

Weatherson: I'm suprised you're able to reach the proper salinity in the 32 gallon container with only 10 cups of IO salt. What salinity are you running you're tank at? FWIW, I also use a 32 gallon rubbermaid container for mixing my salt water. I also have my float valve mounted in about the same spot as yours. It takes me 15 cups of IO salt to get my RO/DI water to 35ppt(~1.025) measured by my refractometer.

yznhmr · #**336** 09/25/2003, 06:50 PM

10 cups only ?? does seam kinda weak.. eager to hear..

weatherson · #**337** 09/25/2003, 07:13 PM

lilbuddy: Wel a dining room is another thing altogether. I guess she has a point.

I assumed James was kidding too.. but now that I think about it.. hmmm.

Typhon: Thanks for the words of praise and it's good to know there were some worthy ideas for you to use.

weatherson · #**338** 09/25/2003, 07:31 PM

Travis & yznhmr: I run my tank salinity at 1.026 specific gravity. I don't use a refractometer but rather a SeaTest meter by Aquarium Systems. Granted this isn't as accurate as the refractometer but I have tested it to be so to a precision hydrometer. I have the hydrometer but regularly use the SeaTest for it's ease. I'm not sure why there's a variance but I will say that with different batches of IO, I get different readings. In fact, the water change I just did, with the 10 cups of IO from a new container, was 1.028 when mixed. The tank salinity was slightly down from normal so I didn't dilute the mixed water any. Perhaps it has to do with the oxygenation level my new water change tank creates. I'm not sure. Either way, my tank runs the 1.026 specific gravity mentioned.

Travis · #**339** 09/25/2003, 10:51 PM

Weatherson: I'm glad you pointed out how the different batches of IO give different results. I recently started bringing my freshly mixed saltwater to NSW levels for strontium, magnesium, calcium, and alkalinity. I've got it fine tuned so I don't even have to test it anymore. I just add the right amount of supplements. Now I'll be sure to test the water when I open a new bucket before adding it to my tank.

R33F Keeper · #**340** 09/25/2003, 11:29 PM

Nice tank, but personally I dont like your aquascaping at all.

If it were my tank I would have attemped to create a sloping wall from top back to bottom front. Mabye have a valley in the middle that will let you see all the way to the back of the tank.

Good work otherwise.

saltaholic · #**341** 09/25/2003, 11:58 PM

what will he do next...

You are the "Magyver" of reef tanks

StroKnight · #**342** 09/26/2003, 03:17 AM

weatherson thanks for the info, much appreciated

weatherson · #**343** 09/26/2003, 05:45 AM

R33F Keeper: I'm sorry you didn't like my aquascaping design. Although, your description is fairly close to my design in that it slopes downward from the back and there is a middle valley, albeit diagonal, that allows you to see all the way to the back. The tank is only 24" deep so I went the diagonal route to visually create more depth. In person, this worked well. So I guess the difference is that I also sloped the two rock formations down, towards the middle of the tank. This design gives me more surface area for future coral additions. Thanks for your comments.

weatherson · #**344** 09/26/2003, 05:51 AM

saltaholic: Next is not so exciting as I'm working on the holders to keep the black plexi back in place and still allow for its reversal should I ever get to painting the other side. But you may be impressed to know I'm using a torch to bend some plastic. That's almost Magyver like.

StroKnight: No problem and good luck in whichever route you decide.

kribensis · #**345** 09/26/2003, 10:18 AM

Wow - what an incredible job. I am building a custom house right now and will be installing a 65 gallon in the wall, with a very large closet behind it as the 'fish room'. This thread has been a huge inspiration. Thank you!!
Lori

dkh0331 · #**346** 09/26/2003, 10:37 AM

weatherson,
Thank you so very much for sharing your project with us and taking the time to eloquently respond to everyone's posts.

for both the project and your posts.

David

weatherson · #**347** 09/26/2003, 02:33 PM

Lori & David: You are both very welcome and thanks for your kind words. I'm pleased you were able to gain something from this project. As I said in the beginning, my hope was to share as so many have done for me. I wouldn't have this current tank if it weren't for them. Lori, good luck with your new tank. It sounds very exciting.

dsb1829 · #**348** 09/26/2003, 03:55 PM

Simply a great setup. Thanks for sharing

VegasMike · #**349** 09/26/2003, 05:49 PM

WOW and THANK YOU.

I am planning an addition to my house which includes an in-wall tank and a fish room. My contractors start next week. I have had the plans done for over a month, but I had to wait for a permit from the city. I actually ordered my tank from Mitch about a month ago, but we all know about his reputation with timeliness. It will actually take the builder less time to build this 725 square foot addition to my house than it takes Mitch to finish the tank.

This thread has given me some great new ideas as well as confirmation of my existing plans. My tank is going to be 96"x36"x32". The sump is 60"x24"x18". The skimmer is an MR-4 from Myreef who also ordered the two Sequence 4600's and the Iwaki 70 that I will be using for pumps. I have also ordered a Tunze 2x6100 plus multicontroller.

I love the light box. I wish I could duplicate it but I am going to go a lower tech way. I am going to go with Reef Optix pendants suspended from the same wire shelving that is used for closets, it is very strong and gives great ventilation. My tank will actually have walls on either side so I am going to have it rest on brackets at either end, supported in the middle by steel cables. I was also thinking about the pulley route, but have not decided between that or just different quick links on chains instead of the steel cables. I think your pulley system may have made up my mind.

I also plan on documenting my progree like you have, but I see no reason to now as my solutions will probably not be as graceful or high- tech as yours.

Mike

weatherson · #**350** 09/27/2003, 04:52 AM

dsb1829: Thank you very much and you are very welcome. It's been my pleasure.

Mike: That sounds like a great system you are building. I really like the tank size with a depth of 36". I would love to have a slightly deeper tank but it would have taken up too much room in the fish room. Isn't it nice to build to suite?

It sounds like your design of lighting system will be much lighter than my design so you could do the pulley system but it wouldn't need to be nearly as heavy duty. I'm sure I speak for others as well as myself in saying that you should document and share your project. There's always different ways to achieve that same results and seeing them all makes for better overall progress. Thanks for your kind words.