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#101
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My tank is 1.90 x 0.80 x 0.7 high Pat told me the old 72 was a little small for the tank i hope the new 72 will be good, what do you think guys?
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#102
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Pat will give you an honest answer
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#103
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Wow. I put the brakes on my 72" 400w purchase 'cause of the above note. Let us know how it is resolved...
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Bill |
#104
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notice that person said the old 72 inch which is not 400
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#105
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Sorry, wasn't specific. I put the brakes on because of the quality issue. I sent Pat an email to let him know about the quality issue post. He's in Mexico, but I thougth I'd post his reply:
"The 14" units are from are original order back in April of 2006. We ordered a bunch, and for a lot of reasons we have stopped shipping the 14" units out. All the quality control issues that have been fixed with all the other lengths have not been fixed with the 14" unit because they are still from the original batch. If you read the first posts back in August of 2006 you will find a familiar sound. Moving forward since January 2007 this has not been the comments. I have been in Mexico for the past week and not due back until Wednesday. I am not currently up to speed on his problem, and what we have done to correct it. I am sure that within the next week we will have his problem solved."
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Bill |
#106
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#107
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Well, looks like there's a competitor for PFO's Solaris:
http://www.aquaillumination.com/ They claim to be brighter than the Solaris 400w, more efficient, cheaper (?), expandable, 24 hour burn in/test of every unit, AND built in the USA. Availability is about 6 weeks. No, I don't work there - I'm just shopping for a replacement for my 400w MHs, and I don't want to buy a chiller.
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Bill Last edited by bstreep; 04/25/2007 at 10:09 PM. |
#108
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Nice to have more options on leds but right now they dont offer nothing and for me this aquaillumination is new... pfo is more renowed company.
We just have to wait and see what happen. You can grow sps 24" deep with 400w solaris thats what pfo claims. |
#109
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Time will tell.
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Amphibious If ignorance is BLISS, why are there so many miserable people in the world??? |
#110
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amphibious you got pm
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#111
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If you email them, they are very responsive with info. I believe their claim is made based on their LED selection - and they know what LED their competitor uses.
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Bill |
#112
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-perry/xinumaster |
#113
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My point is when i upgraded to halides they stopped doing this. Post that pic in the clam forum and see what they say. |
#114
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Steve . |
#115
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Anyone else have any advise on Solaris?
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#116
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The LFS has a Solaris on a 90. The visible screws are not matching and there are scratches. We will see how long it holds up. For that much cash I would expect perfection. R
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#117
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Proud Card Carrying Member of the Deltec Club. |
#118
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Hi everyone.
I Have been following this thread for a while and have found it very useful in making my decision to use Solaris lights for my new reef tank project. I am building a 470 gallon 60" x 60" x 30" tank that will be viewable from all 4 sides. I will be caring primarily for SPS corals, particularly Acros. I have had some concern about the abilities of the LED lighting but feel better now that the 400w versions are available. Now, the question I have concerns the configuration of hte lighting system. I have played around with different length H4 configurations ranging between 3 and 5 fixtures. I think that 3 of the 48" fixtures might do the trick but as the lights are recommonded to come up to hte edge of the tank perhaps 3 of the 60" models would work better. I am looking for hte maximum amount of useable light possible in my setup and would appreciate any help that I could get. I am very excited about this new advancement in the hobby and can't wait to test the lighting system myself. I am attempting to create a cutting edge efficient system and this will certainly help. Any help will be greatly appreciate. Thank you
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-Tom Proud Registered ORCA Member |
#119
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thirschmann,
Wow, a 470 walk around that will be an awesome tank. Are you building it yourself? All us Solaris lovers are excited about the new 400W units. You are correct that the lights should come to the edge of the tank ends. The reason is, unlike MH which bounces or spreads light all over the place, LED lighting is directed straight down into the tank. Consequently, the 6" on either end would have a shadowed effect. Three 60" models will cover the tank more evenly left to right. To get the same even coverage front to back may require raising the lights above the tank. The light spread increases as you raise the lights. You may have to play with that to get the coverage you are looking for or consider a fourth light. Dick
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Amphibious If ignorance is BLISS, why are there so many miserable people in the world??? |
#120
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Im doin an experiment using a light mover on mine as it may reduce the need to have the entire tank covered with fixtures. Not sure how it will work out but worth a try.
Has anyone ever tried this before? Im looking at a Hydroponics type track system that has a time adjustable setting fro movement. If this works and doesnt effect coral growth it could mean the differnece of using 1 48" unit verse 2 units and saving the money on electricity to run it in lieu of a small wattage track motor to get the coverage. I thought about the cloud cover in the real ocean as a natural dimming effect to a natural reef and this seemed like an obtainable goal with a track light mover. KEEP in mind you can set the pause time at eitheir end of the track to a desired time so no one end would recive more light than the otherand overlapping would be minimal. Just a suggestion and Ill post some results when I get this inplace. I could be off the deep end all together here. |
#121
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That's a great idea, Biggie. I know of a guy that does that with one of his MH pendants. His corals look great. Let us know how this works out.
Dick
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Amphibious If ignorance is BLISS, why are there so many miserable people in the world??? |
#122
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I just laid out the travel on my 96 long with a 6 ft track section and the 48 in. Solaris to see what would make the best placement for the track. Now my only question is if the track will have movable stops since I only need 48"'s of travel and the track only comes in 6 ft sections? Suppose Ill have to rig up something if not but I believe it would almost have to be adjustable. Amphibious, you were looking into some replacelment legs for me for my Solaris, Any luck on that? Im probably going to laser cut some new end caps out of #304 SS and match drill it and include a lifting loop on top for this light mover idea and be done with the whole thing if I cant get them otherwise. Perks of my trade as it is. Another mod for the RC crowd as it looks lol... |
#123
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Thanks, I am really excited about the build and can't wait to get it together. It will be unique in a number of ways, but I'm not here to highjack this thread. Thank you for the great feedback.
I am considering going with either 3 60" models or 4 48" models. I have done some 3d sketch work with both and think that the 4 48" seem to get more overall tank coverage. I don't think my budget would allow 4 60" but maybe... Anyways, I had a question regarding the intensity of light in areas where the lights overlap. For example, if I were to go with 4 48" models, there would be approximately 8 inches of overlap within the first 18 inches of water penetration. As the light is most effective at a depth up to 18 inces, will the overlap at this depth make the beams to intense for corals or will this only help the corals along. Please advise if possible. Thank you and looking forward to a response.
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-Tom Proud Registered ORCA Member |
#124
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If you acclimate slow it should work. My tank is 23", so sand is about 20' average and I had bleaching problems a mid tank and up, these lights are a lot more intense then they look. My SPS are doing great now, have Crocea's on order.
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#125
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Biggie,
Sent you a PM. Dick
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Amphibious If ignorance is BLISS, why are there so many miserable people in the world??? |
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