Hop's 800 gallon rebirth - Page 16

Hop · #**376** 04/15/2007, 08:59 PM

The west wall:

The supports are bow wrapped:

Next up was a decent cleaning of the entire shop and wetroom. After that I started finishing off all the edges. I still have one coat of paint to go, but this is how it sits tonight, The east wall:

The lower end of the east end, with braces installed and wrapped!

The north and west wall:

The door jam painted. Funny the sticker on the door stated that it would only be warranted if painted within 48 hours of hanging. Oops:

I still need to touch up around the vent, but I need to wait for the caulk to dry overnight:

andyjd · #**377** 04/15/2007, 09:02 PM

Darn that looks good!

maxxII · #**378** 04/15/2007, 09:29 PM

For someone who's sick, you do real good work!

Looking sharp man....go get some rest and eat lots of vitamin C.

Every time I start to get punked out, 2k mgs of Vitamin C every 2 hours....after about 8 hours, I feel MUCH better.

Nick

Cuby2k · #**379** 04/15/2007, 09:46 PM

Wow, a guy steps away for a while (me) and look what happens. Awesome work Hop. I have often wondered if we get more satisfaction out of building our reef setups than actually having a growing reef. One things for sure and that is I really enjoy seeing a job done right. Kudos my friend.

Hop · #**380** 04/15/2007, 10:25 PM

andyjd: Thanks! I hope that it turns out about like I planned!

maxxII: I've definitely been hitting the vitamins and the motrin today! My wife caught it also and she's pretty much a bedroom fixture. But I hate sitting and/or laying around.

Not sure how the work turned out without a major issue or a finger casualty on the table saw. The funny thing is that I would take a measurement, get out to the shop and as I was setting up the table saw, forget the measurement. I think I walked about ten miles today back and forth

Cuby2k: Where did you go? Thanks for the kudos. As I mentioned, I hope it turns out the way I planned.

I just noticed some things in the pictures that some people may be wondering about. Maybe after I get the kids in bed, I'll try to describe some things before someone asks

jnarowe · #**381** 04/15/2007, 10:48 PM

looking good. That vent wrap turned out nice.

chris wright · #**382** 04/15/2007, 10:54 PM

Looking real god Hop

Again ill say i love your attention to detail and neatness.

Hope your feeling better, if not go and get extremely drunk,

works sometimes, if not at least you had some fun.

Tripspike · #**383** 04/15/2007, 11:09 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by jnarowe
radiant heat really only works with hard flooring like stone, tile, or cement. Trying to use it with wood will not give the desired affect because wood doesn't transfer heat very well. (unless it's on fire!)

Just thought I would chime in here to dispel some misnomers on radiant heating (from experience). I live in CT, a fairly cold climate, and installed radiant heat in my entire house (renovated an existing house) about 4 years ago. I used a hot water recirculation system with tubing that was installed under the wood subfloor with aluminum transfer shields. All of my heat transmits through wood. Most of my house is tile except for the dining room which is an African Tiger hardwood and the master bedroom which is carpet. Everyone comments on how comfortable the house is in the winter, even those that have no idea we installed the radiant heat. It definitely feels much better than any other heat type I have come across and I have lived with just about every type out there.

My wife who suffers from allergies has also greatly benefited from the radiant heating. Time spent dusting has also been reduced.

Hop · #**384** 04/15/2007, 11:13 PM

jnarowe: Thanks. It was a last minute "hmmm how am I going to mount this" moment

chris wright: Thanks. There are still some areas I need to fix as it's just not "finished" enough. but it's getting there. And the drinking is out as someone (that would be me) has to get up and get the kids ready for school in the morning and I'm a cheap drunk who gets nasty hangovers

Ok so those that actually pay attention may have noticed a few things.

1. The caulk on the lower counter is darker than the other stuff. Yup, it's 20 year caulk and dries with less flexibility. I went with this as once the sumps are in place, I need to know that the caulk will hold up. It's around $12 a tube, so I only used it in the lower sections and directly under the skimmer. The rest of the caulk is more like tub and tile caulk and will likely need to be redone in a few years or so, depending on how rough the salt water environment is on it. And it's only 2.99 a tube

To give you an idea, there are twelve tubes of caulk used to seal everything in the room. And I may have to go back and make sure I got everything. This includes the upper and lower sections of the counters, RO/DI mount, cabinet etc... If it is screwed to or near the wall, odds are is has been caulked

2. The electrical in this room is pretty simple and was designed for the previous build. The light on the ceiling actually will be wired to the outlet high up on the west wall. That plug is wired with a switch and leaves me room for an additional light if I want.

Three additional lights will be utilized to illuminate the workspace and sink area. They are low voltage lights and I should have them wired up fairly soon. They will be controlled via a switch on the DJ powerstrips. They have a dimmer control, but I'll likely omit it in the wiring process.

3. Tools. Melev pointed out to me the other night that by the sound of my words in the thread, I used just a router to laminate the wood. Actually I used a router, a rotozip, a pull saw, and two hand files. Only the countertops were laminated in the room. Everything else was done on the workbench where it could be secured and clamped. Maybe someday if anyone is really that bored, I'll post all the tools that were needed, used or modified to make this build happen.

There was more I wanted to post but I forgot... I hate being sick!

Hop · #**385** 04/15/2007, 11:17 PM

Tripspike: Thanks for the info. I think the wife and I elected to just go with the wood floor this time. This was based on our seven year plan

divecj5 · #**386** 04/16/2007, 07:02 AM

Man Hop, been away from the computer for a couple days and I come back to this!!!! I thought you said you were going to take things slow

Just kidding...everything looks totally amazing and I think you're hitting this one out of the park. When you had the tank up previously it was amazing but this time around it's going to be TOTM amazing.

Great job and I think we all wish we were as productive while sick

Adam

jnarowe · #**387** 04/16/2007, 09:53 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Tripspike
Just thought I would chime in here to dispel some misnomers on radiant heating (from experience). I live in CT, a fairly cold climate, and installed radiant heat in my entire house (renovated an existing house) about 4 years ago. I used a hot water recirculation system with tubing that was installed under the wood subfloor with aluminum transfer shields. All of my heat transmits through wood. Most of my house is tile except for the dining room which is an African Tiger hardwood and the master bedroom which is carpet. Everyone comments on how comfortable the house is in the winter, even those that have no idea we installed the radiant heat. It definitely feels much better than any other heat type I have come across and I have lived with just about every type out there.

My wife who suffers from allergies has also greatly benefited from the radiant heating. Time spent dusting has also been reduced.

I am not sure I understand this post but I am interested to read more. You say that the radiant heat was installed under the wood subfloor with aluminum transfer shields. What are they and how are they installed? You also say that most of your house is tile. Are you referring to stone or ceramic tile?

I am very interested to learn more about how you renovated your house and installed radiant heat under wood flooring, but I can't tell from your post if you have more than just the dining room with wood flooring.

I know it's off-topic, but inquiring minds want to know!

steve the plumb · #**388** 04/16/2007, 10:20 AM

I am just doing a job now where we ran radiant heating in the guys kitchen.He also used hard wood flooring.Its pretty simple the subfloor has grooves in it for the piping.Its 3/8 pex piping.You do have to seperate the sections of the room and caculate how much pipe you need for each section.The plumber will tell you how much pipe you need and he will calculate how the water needs to be distributed to maintain the same temp.The pipes conect to a central controller wich controls the temp.Water comes from the boiler to the controller.The sub floor panels with the grooves have aluminum fins(srt of) its more like slots so as the water passes threw the pipes it heats the aluminum wich radiates and heats the wood flooring.It works like a wall radiator but the cooper ones with the alluminum fins.You have to seperate the sections(the room into sections) because you want to try to keep the water at the same temp.Its a long run because the pipe winds back and forth.I can't remember if you have to buy the hard wood flooring from the same company that sells the subfloor panels.I would think you can use any hard would floors.You have to keep the are free of dust when installing the pipes and make sure the floor installers don't nail any of the pipeing.The clients floor came out nice.More work than a regular floor but this kept me busy.I know my client used an indoor outdoor thermasta with the controller.This works with outside temp.I have one at my house and I don't like these units always have to adjust the temp becuase it gets to hot.(unit works with outdoor temp so it can't tell how hot or cold your house is inside) sorry to bable just wanted to help jnarowe out.Hop I tend to forget thigs right away it helps to write down the mesurements that way you don't have to run back and forth.Trust me I can forget something in 10 seconds then I just have to remesure

Hop · #**389** 04/16/2007, 01:19 PM

divecj5: This is slow

Just wait until the lack of posts here shortly while I try to buy equipment

Sick... Bad... I came down with it even worse last night. This bug is a doosie!

jnarowe: I don't know, but a lot of homes here use the radiant heat where the water is recirculated in the tubes under the floor as their only source of heat. People say they really like them. Too expensive for my blood, I was just looking at the cheaper electric ones

steve the plumb: Thanks for the post... It was all headache/crampy feeling that led to the forgetfulness. Well maybe, I can't remember!

Hop · #**390** 04/16/2007, 01:42 PM

Before thinking my head was going to explode, a 104 temp and body cramps, I got the undercabinet lighting mounted last night. I plugged it in to see how it would look. Now I just need to tuck, hide and run the wires:

We will see if I get to feeling better today, otherwise I'm going to surf RC and drink juice

jnarowe · #**391** 04/16/2007, 02:55 PM

Well, I understand how these are being installed, but it would be difficult to convince me that wood transfers heat very well like that. I see electrical mats sold for under floating floors too, but I don't buy into it. With the air gap and low absorptive rate of wood, it's got to cost a lot of money to heat a room that way. With stone, ceramic, or cement, the heat is much better utilized.

jnarowe · #**392** 04/16/2007, 02:56 PM

that really looks great Hop. Lots of light...wish I had done that!

melev · #**393** 04/16/2007, 03:30 PM

Hop, get better soon!

chris wright · #**394** 04/16/2007, 04:52 PM

Looking real good Hop.

The lights your using in the cabinets, are they the low voltage down lights? Neat idea by the way.

Just a comment on the flooring/heating. Id imagine that the floor boards would have to seasoned (moisture levels reduced below 10%) other wise you would get shrinkage in the boards beyond acceptable standards. Long term water under the floor and movement in the house (expansion and contraction) would be enough to turn me off. Id be to worried that something could go wrong ruining the floor. My $0.02 for the topic.

Hope your feeling better soon mate, Looking foward to your next update

Hop · #**395** 04/16/2007, 04:57 PM

jnarowe: Thanks. It's an OK amount of light. They would not have been worth it if I had to mount them very much higher. They might be an easy install into your wetroom.

melev: I'm trying. I started to feel better and went out to run the wires for the undercabinet lighting. After three holes I decided that it was best if I stay inside today

chris wright: Yup they are just undercabinet lights picked up from the big box home center. Not the low end and certainly not the high end.

As far as the tubes under the floor, in new construction they are imbedded in a mesh mat which is laid on your floor. Then a self leveling compound is poured over the top, similar to mortar from tile floors. This completely seals the tubes and gives a firm support. The other method of installs is actually under the floor, woven inside the floor joists. I'm sure there are other ways, but these are the two I can remember from Bob Villa

Enderrea · #**396** 04/16/2007, 04:58 PM

Hop! sounds like the Virus i had this year after getting a face full of some one hacking there lungs out ........ i was in bed with Vicodin for four days ..... good luck with that hope you feel better man!

steve the plumb · #**397** 04/16/2007, 05:10 PM

yes I to think this is a stupid idea(floors) but the guy has money and my bosses partner was willing to do it.For me would will contract and expand anyways.I do think with to much heat the floors will eventully warp.More so using an indoor outdoor thermastat.It gets hot when the temp drops up and down(very hot)I know my buddy built a house and he paid $70,000 for a geo thermal unit.His home cost him around $700,000 and his floors warped within 6 months(wood floors)You are better off doing it with tiles.You can also go electric I have seen this and its more simple plus no humidity from water. Hops hope you feel better!Get well soon so you can go catch the bad guys.

Hop · #**398** 04/16/2007, 05:31 PM

Enderrea: It's nasty what ever it is. I have not been this sick in years. I should be laying down, but I thought I could use this time to research and confirm the equipment plans

steve the plumb: No bad guy catching while on vacation

I'm leaving Wednesday morning to get my mom moved up closer to our town... After dad passed away last year, that house is just too much for her and she is really far away from relatives. I'm hoping that I'll have time to get the wetroom wired next weekend, I'm sick of tripping over cords. Then, sump building time...

steve the plumb · #**399** 04/16/2007, 10:12 PM

I haven't even started my project yet.I am amassing the funds to buy everything slowly.I have to get the tank first then stand lights and skimmer,sump etc.Its a pain to start all over again from scratch.$$$$ or lack of it

melev · #**400** 04/16/2007, 11:01 PM

Hop, I'd like to make a suggestion for you. Your room is full of white, but your lighting is not 6500K. Doing water tests in there will be difficult because of the yellow nature of those low-wattage lights. You should be able to find a desk lamp at any number of stores that has a small PC bulb rated at 6500K. It will be invaluable when you're trying to determine test results that have to do with color comparisons.