standpipe question

[fishman9168]

Would the durso style standpipe work the same way in a HOB overflow as it does in an internal overflow? I have got to do something to quiet it down before wifey goes ballistic. I have read the past posts but they seem to all be referring to internal built in overflows.... any input would be greatly appreciated.

[Steverino]

I am making mine on the assumption it does...with the little air hose outlet on the top.

[Worldwithin]

If setup properly, yes. I did have to do some re-working of mine to get it to fit, but it worked perfectly.

[Pbrown3701]

yes, and in fact, it can be used in a DIY HOB overflow to maintain siphon instead of the two stage baffle and drain.

[RandyStacyE]

You could use a Durso or a Stockman Aqua-Silencer
I usually go with the Durso just because it is easier and can be modified to take up less space while leaving plenty of room for the U tube. I have 2 siphon overflows and each of them use the Durso.

[raddogz]

You can also look at the Hofer Gurgle Blaster.

[kstockman]

RandyStacyE--

That is a cool diagram. What program did you use to draw it with?

I am surprise that an Aqua-SIlencer will not fit into a siphon over flow. The whole reason for it's being was that it takes up less room than a Durso. For a 1" bulkhead you just need to be able to fit the diameter of a 1.5" encap fitting.

Cheers
ken

[RandyStacyE]

Just Microsoft Paint

Now that I look at a 1-1/2" fitting and my overflow ... of course you're absolutely right The Aqua-Silencer is sleek and does take up less space.

This is a pic of the MOST COMPACT Durso I could make:



This is a pic of a 1-1/2" coupling sitting on top of the Durso. That would have been real slick if I had used an Aqua Silencer


Thanks ... I stand corrected.

[kstockman]

The nice thing about putting in the Durso or the Aqua-Silencer into a siphon overflow box is that you can eliminate the wall between the drain and the siphon. You would have to glue the main pipe into place to make sure that it did not leak when the power is off.

[Steverino]

1. Do you need to put anything around the Durso or A-silencer like a plastic mesh for snails or to keep anything out?
2. Where do you get those little airline fitments, are they the "needle valves"?
3. On the aqua silencer, how large is the drain hole in the main vertical 1" pipe? In other words, does it go about 180 degrees around? How do you connect the 1.5" cap that goes over it? Glob some PVC glue onto the end of the tube? And it does not work if there is no airline or hole in the top, right, unless you are pulling a constant siphon?
----------thanks!

[RandyStacyE]

In order for a snail to get anywhere near an Aqua-Silencer or a Durso it would first have to travel past the inner overflow box, through the U tube, into the outer overflow box and even then It would be highly improbable that it could block enough flow to stop the Aqua-Silencer. With a Durso ... it's technically possible.

That is a little plastic needle valve in the drawing way above. You should be able to find them at your local fish store, but most of the time I don't think you'll need one.


I'm sure that kstockman would be able to answer that one better, but I've tried it 2 different ways. I've drilled many holes around the pipe in one overflow. This worked for years ... the only problem is that the holes caused some problems in a fresh water turtle tank so to solve that problem I cut the pipe most of the way around. This opens up the pipe so it can't possibly clog.

You definitely want an air hole on the top or the stand pipe WILL pull a complete siphon. It will suck air, make a loud slurping sound, go silent for a short while and constantly continue the cycle ... slurp, silent, slurp, silent .... The air hole makes for a 'semi siphon'.

Here's some good reading:

Stockman Aqua-Silencer:
http://home.nc.rr.com/stockmanreef/interest.htm

Durso Stand Pipe:
http://www.dursostandpipes.com/

I've never tried this method so I have nothing to say about it
http://home.everestkc.net/jrobertson57268/HGB/

I've always used a coupling, bushing, cap and some pipe. kstockman earlier suggested that all one needs for a 1" stand pipe is a 1-1/2" cap like in this pic from kstockmans' site:

[fishman9168]

This forum rocks.. thanks for all the replies to what Im sure has been asked many, many times in the past.

[heyfredyourhat]

so this may be way off topic, but will a durso work like this, quiet and basically easy to set up or is it just not right....

[heyfredyourhat]

oops here is pic

[Steverino]

no, there will be no siphon on that u-tube with a hole in the top. Allt he standpipes and dursos have the hole in the top when the water is ready to drain downwards toward the sump, and the hole simply stops gurgling and water sucking noises.

[RandyStacyE]

It will work just fine, but NOT 'just as drawn' in your pic.

This pic is from www.dursostandpipes.com It shows a Durso installed 'through' the exterior overflow compartment of a 'siphon overflow'. You can plumb a Durso in a similar fashion, but through the back of the tank. You would want an overflow box like you show in your drawing otherwise you will not ‘surface skim’.

[heyfredyourhat]

Thank you, that clears up some confusion. Another off topic Q, how do i know what size to build internal overflow???I would like aprox 1200 GPH....I thought i had read it somewhere, but maybe just imagined haha. Thanks again!

[Worldwithin]

For a 1200gph, you would need a minimum of 2 1" drains. 1" = 600gph.

[RandyStacyE]

Originally posted by heyfredyourhat
Thank you, that clears up some confusion. Another off topic Q, how do i know what size to build internal overflow???I would like aprox 1200 GPH....I thought i had read it somewhere, but maybe just imagined haha. Thanks again!

Do you mean the 'actual internal box' itself?

That I do not know for a fact. Many prefer what is called a coast to coast overflow which is a shallow box running the entire length of the tank. This gives you maximum surface skimming capability.

Some suggest having at least a minimum specification, but I don't know what that minimum specification is. I think a certain 'lineal inch of overflow' based on flow rate or something like that.

Think of it this way ... if you had an average size internal overflow box and you were pumping approx 600 gph into your display tank; the water would spill over the box, down into the box and through your stand pipe. If you were to measure how 'thick' the water is that is spilling over your overflow it would be X thickness.

If you were pumping approx 1200 gph the water into the same display tank using the same box ... the water would have to be thicker where it spills over your overflow.

I think meeting at least the MINIMUM linear inch of overflow would be beneficial, but likely NOT critical. If you just took a guess, I'm sure everything would be just fine, but I'm sure that professional overflow builders and manufacturers could suggest a minimum.

[heyfredyourhat]

Well this is what i have and what i was trying to do....
2.5 inch hole in upper right hand corner, and 1.5 inch hole in upper left hand corner. I wanted to drain with big hole and return with other hole. then i have a few CL holes in other spots. There was some confusion about hole location when i ordered my tank, so this is what i am trying to deal with...!

i had thought about the coast to coast style, but i dont like the idea of taking up that much space in the tank.
thanks for the help though.

[RandyStacyE]

I don't blame you ... it sounds a bit harder to do the coast to cost deal. You can easily do a vertical overflow in one corner (using the big hole), use the other hole as your return and use the other holes for your closed loops.

There's NOTHING wrong with doing that. That's what I'd do in your situation too.

[heyfredyourhat]

Okay, so in doing the vertical overflow with the larger hole, should i run the box right to the bottom? Or can i use a shallow box?

I would really like to save space inside the tank, so huge internal overflows are not really what i am looking for. Unless its required of course.