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auto-top-off any good ones?
I was wondering about auto top offs for my sump are there any good ones out there ? I dont want to buy three or four till I find a decent one know what i mean? [IMG]http://[/IMG]
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a litermeter 3 is top of the line imo.
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Anthony red house, up there^ = my tank pics "Use filters" |
#3
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I'm a big fan of the Tunze Osmolator, but I was just reminded that its important to periodically clean the optical level sensor. It became covered in coraline and stopped topping off. Fortunately, it did this yesterday, and I was able to clean it, rather than, say, next week, when I'll be out of town (yikes).
jds |
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#6
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thanks for your replys
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#7
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there is only one auto-top-off that can go directly into the sump and thats the SpectraPure Pass-To-Drain system. All others would contaminate your water because there is a TDS spike the first few gallons of RO/DI water.
http://www.spectrapure.com/St_PTD_p0.htm The Pass-To-Drain will flush the system for 5min before top-off.
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90g AGA with 120lb of cooked Hatian LR, 40g sump, Mag9.5 pump, Tek Light 4x54w T5, Euro-Reef RS135, Vortech Power Head, SpectraPure Maxcap RO/DI |
#8
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Autotopoff.com
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CORA Member/WORC Member |
#9
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go to top-off.com they are the best and cheap and work a long long time.
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3 40B 2 crashed 1 clown pair, 120 custom in progress, 4 clown pairs and 2 bangaii pairs. 12 tank clown system in works |
#10
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I use an www.autotopoff.com and love it. Works great.
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Yeah. I got the memo. And I understand the policy... |
#11
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I prefer a limited reservoir for the topoff water. It is still easy to plumb the RO/DI output into things without having an essentially uninterrupted connection. For an ATO system, I use a Tunze osmolator. Very nice setup. Very dependable.
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"Misers get up early in the morning; and burglars, I am informed, get up the night before." - GK Chesterton |
#12
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i had a tunze and the optic sensor always needed cleaned or did not work because of to much light hitting it got rid of it.
Got a oceanus systems had it over a year no problems never even cleaned it yet. Last edited by baja_hammer2003; 01/03/2007 at 09:31 AM. |
#13
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www.aquahub.com gives u a bunch of options on how to set up the ato
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Armando |
#14
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I have not had to clean my osmolator sensor, nor does it build up coraline -- but I don't have light in my return section so there really is no reason for anything to build up, or no way for coraline to grow.
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"Misers get up early in the morning; and burglars, I am informed, get up the night before." - GK Chesterton |
#15
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switches
I ordered 3 switches yesterday. I have installed a RO/DI system that runs to a bucket with a float switch. The water leaves the bottom of the bucket to a Kalk reactor. I am currently using a pool doser on a timer to refill the sump at night. I want to install a ATO system this weekend.
I have the relay and the power adapter. I was using a mercury switch on a plastic hinge as a ATO.
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All I want is a cube of the ocean in my home. |
#16
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Re: switches
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So provide power to the ATO system once per day, instead of it cycling on and off as the switch triggers it all day? I like this idea a lot. jp
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Rock in the tank is money not in my bank. |
#17
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Hi. Just digging up old threads looking for ATO ideas.
RIght now, I have no sump. THis appears to make things messier/harder. So I'm looking at building a new tank that would have a sump inside the stand, and then run the output for the RO through the wall to fill up some type of tank that would be a resivoir to fill the sump back up as evaporation took it's toll. I've never used a float switch. Looking around I've been unable to find much except a picture of one, but not one in action. Hhow do these things work? |
#18
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I love the reef fanatic ATO, it has a double float switch, it is fairly inexpensive and works like a charm.
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Rainbow Monti wanted!! |
#19
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Hello there are many types of float switch`s out there the most common that have been used for many years in the medical field to industrial applications is a reed type float switch that use`s a magnet to trigger the switch. If you plan on going with out a sump and hooking direct to a ro/di you should ask these questions are the solenoids made from 304 stainless or better ro/di water is very corrosive it is stripped of many ions that make it corrosive to common metals and what size orfice is in the solenoid to small will lead to premature failure of your ro membrane lack of water and is there redundancy built in to the top off device the odds of 2 things failing at the exact same time would be very very very rare. never seen it yet over 30 years as a industrial electrician.
Last edited by oceanus_systems; 02/24/2007 at 07:02 PM. |
#20
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I use the 75.00 one from autotopoff.com---easy to calibrate: just push the float down in its holder until the light turns from red to green at the level you want it to be, and let it run a maxijet pump in a bucket...that's on the cheap and easy side of technology.
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Sk8r "Make haste slowly." ---Augustus. "If anything CAN go wrong, it will, and at the worst possible moment."---St. Murphy. |
#21
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Quote:
You might get more responses if you posted this as a new thread.
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"Misers get up early in the morning; and burglars, I am informed, get up the night before." - GK Chesterton |
#22
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A float switch looks like a fat hotdog fitted into a brace. It has wires coming out the top. You adjust its level inside the brace, which fits into your sump. A little floaty thing inside the casing trips the electrics on or off depending on water level and turns on your topoff pump. If you push the casing down it thinks it's way full; if you pull it upward, it thinks it's short some water and turns on. YOu mark your desired water level and push or pull your floatswitch casing accordingly. That's the 'setting' of the float switch---pretty low tech.
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Sk8r "Make haste slowly." ---Augustus. "If anything CAN go wrong, it will, and at the worst possible moment."---St. Murphy. |
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