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  #1  
Old 02/14/2007, 03:25 PM
mediumsprite mediumsprite is offline
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WTB internal overflow box

Hello,
I got a new tank (3'X2'X2') and would like to install an internal overflow box . I plan to drill from the bottom of the tank.

thanks,

Miriam
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  #2  
Old 02/14/2007, 04:49 PM
sharkdude sharkdude is offline
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wetdryfilter dot com

ex-RC sponsor
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  #3  
Old 02/14/2007, 07:23 PM
mediumsprite mediumsprite is offline
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Thanks
hopefully I can find something a little less than $200. lol
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  #4  
Old 02/14/2007, 07:26 PM
pookstreet pookstreet is offline
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Try socalcreations dot com. They make acrylic overflow boxes I believe.
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  #5  
Old 02/14/2007, 07:36 PM
Bebo77 Bebo77 is offline
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ask kenny Pookstreet he can make you one...
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  #6  
Old 02/14/2007, 07:41 PM
pookstreet pookstreet is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Bebo77
ask kenny Pookstreet he can make you one...
Dude, don't get me in trouble man. I haven't worked with acrylic since our second baby.
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  #7  
Old 02/14/2007, 08:40 PM
Bebo77 Bebo77 is offline
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lol... trouble?.. never heard that word before... whats that? hehehe
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  #8  
Old 02/15/2007, 02:40 AM
mediumsprite mediumsprite is offline
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Thanks guys, socal has them for $85 I will be ordering from them soon.

here's a pix of the 90gal my b/f got me for v-day

Quote:
Originally posted by pookstreet
Try socalcreations dot com. They make acrylic overflow boxes I believe.
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  #9  
Old 02/15/2007, 11:13 AM
Bebo77 Bebo77 is offline
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please make sure that the glass is not tempered before you drill it.. if it is and you put a drill to it you can kiss that pane of glass goodbye...
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  #10  
Old 02/15/2007, 11:27 AM
mediumsprite mediumsprite is offline
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Hello Gabriel and thanks
There's no markings that say it's tempered glass. Do you know of a way to tell if the glass is tempered or not?

thanks again,

Miriam
Quote:
Originally posted by Bebo77
please make sure that the glass is not tempered before you drill it.. if it is and you put a drill to it you can kiss that pane of glass goodbye...
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  #11  
Old 02/15/2007, 11:30 AM
freddog freddog is offline
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Rainbow pets had some used overflow boxes for real cheap the last time I was there.
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  #12  
Old 02/15/2007, 11:31 AM
mediumsprite mediumsprite is offline
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Gabriel,
Is it necessary for the internal overflow box to extend from top to bottom?
Would I need a 23 7/8" tall box or can it be shorter and just have the bulkhead coming out the back?

thanks again,

Miriam
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  #13  
Old 02/15/2007, 11:32 AM
mediumsprite mediumsprite is offline
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nice,
thx fred

Miriam
Quote:
Originally posted by freddog
Rainbow pets had some used overflow boxes for real cheap the last time I was there.
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  #14  
Old 02/15/2007, 11:39 AM
mediumsprite mediumsprite is offline
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I was also thinking of adding a 50gal sump/fuge. I have a Gen-X 1500gph pump I plan on using .

thx,

Miriam
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  #15  
Old 02/15/2007, 11:52 AM
gtrestoration gtrestoration is offline
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It's less likely that the back pane would be tempered (but it could be). I don't know if you can tell if it's tempered unless it's marked. If it were me I'd drill the back up a ways from the bottom and elbow the drain outside. If the tank is new you should be able to find out if any of it's tempered.

Size of the bulkhead and hole will depend on how much water you plan to have go through the sump.

I'd still run the overflow box from top to bottom even with the hole located on the back. The further down the drain hole the more flow you can push through it. The water level in the box can rise and the added pressure will help it drain. Either way you'll need to install a duso or something similar to keep it quite.

1,500 GPH through the sump will make sump design very important.

SteveU
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  #16  
Old 02/15/2007, 12:23 PM
mediumsprite mediumsprite is offline
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Hello Steve and thanks for your time

I don't plan on having any power heads in the tank, so I figure a high pressure 1" 1500gph pump would wrk. I don't care for the wave effect, I just want to have plenty flow with out ph's

Do you think the pump might be a little too much? Is there a water flow formula to figure all this out so I don't have to keep bugging you guys

thanks again Steve,

Miriam
Quote:
Originally posted by gtrestoration
It's less likely that the back pane would be tempered (but it could be). I don't know if you can tell if it's tempered unless it's marked. If it were me I'd drill the back up a ways from the bottom and elbow the drain outside. If the tank is new you should be able to find out if any of it's tempered.

Size of the bulkhead and hole will depend on how much water you plan to have go through the sump.

I'd still run the overflow box from top to bottom even with the hole located on the back. The further down the drain hole the more flow you can push through it. The water level in the box can rise and the added pressure will help it drain. Either way you'll need to install a duso or something similar to keep it quite.

1,500 GPH through the sump will make sump design very important.

SteveU
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  #17  
Old 02/15/2007, 12:29 PM
lakersfan0014 lakersfan0014 is offline
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To try to help spread some light on this situation...

To run 1500gph thru a sump you will first have to have a large overflow, as the linear inches of teeth correspond to the amount of flow it will handle. Second, like Steve mentioned above, running that much thru a sump is going to pose problems. The size of the sump will have to be fairly large as microbubbles will be the biggest problem. With that much flow crashing into the sump, being able to dissapate the bubbles before they reach the return pump will pose a size/design challenge. There is only so much you can do (baffles, filter socks ect.) with a certain size sump to dissapate bubbles. The main purpose of the sump is to house equipment and a refugium, but the by product is dealing with bubbles that is created when the water enters the sump, and dissapating those bubbles before they reach the return pump. Hope this makes sense.
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  #18  
Old 02/15/2007, 12:39 PM
mediumsprite mediumsprite is offline
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Yes, Thanks Randy it makes plenty of sense.
what size return pump do you think I should use?

thanks,
Miriam
Quote:
Originally posted by lakersfan0014
To try to help spread some light on this situation...

To run 1500gph thru a sump you will first have to have a large overflow, as the linear inches of teeth correspond to the amount of flow it will handle. Second, like Steve mentioned above, running that much thru a sump is going to pose problems. The size of the sump will have to be fairly large as microbubbles will be the biggest problem. With that much flow crashing into the sump, being able to dissapate the bubbles before they reach the return pump will pose a size/design challenge. There is only so much you can do (baffles, filter socks ect.) with a certain size sump to dissapate bubbles. The main purpose of the sump is to house equipment and a refugium, but the by product is dealing with bubbles that is created when the water enters the sump, and dissapating those bubbles before they reach the return pump. Hope this makes sense.
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  #19  
Old 02/15/2007, 12:45 PM
pookstreet pookstreet is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by mediumsprite
Thanks guys, socal has them for $85 I will be ordering from them soon.

here's a pix of the 90gal my b/f got me for v-day
Glad you were able to find an overflow box from SoCal. They are great to work with. I love the tank they made for me.

That's a great tank btw. And congrats.

In terms of flow, you can always drill additional holes for a closed loop system and split off the return from your Gen-x. However, I do agree with the others that 1500 gph through your sump is a bit too much and you'll have a hard time getting rid of the micro bubbles. The best solution is to get a smaller return pump or use some kind of valve to dial back the return flow, which will in turn determine the drain rate into the overflow. You can then add the closed loop for additional flow in the tank. But you'll be looking at another pump and other equipment.

I actually had holes drilled for a closed loop but have since abandoned it b/c it was just too much hassle. Now I use a couple of Tunze nanostreams and a WavySea. Good luck.
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  #20  
Old 02/15/2007, 01:08 PM
mikedege mikedege is offline
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I tried this theory of having no PH's in my tank too. It just doesnt work. Too many microbubbles. I would say if you dont want PH's in the tank, go with a closed loop, and a smaller pump in your sump.

imo, good luck.
Mike
  #21  
Old 02/15/2007, 01:27 PM
gtrestoration gtrestoration is offline
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I'm running a PCX 55HP (1140gph pressure rated) on one tank that's 72" x 12" x 12". The overflow is at one end, the return at the other. My overflow is only 12" long since it's at one end on the tank. That means the tank's holding only 40g.

The top of the overflow is eggcrate, two squares high. With all the water going to the return the thickness of the overflowing water is a little over 1/2". If the overflow was topped with slots as is the norm there's no way it could handle the flow.

The only thing I do in the sump is use a filter sock and that pretty much takes care of the bubbles. Still a few remain and some might not be able to put up with it.

SteveU
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  #22  
Old 02/15/2007, 01:33 PM
mediumsprite mediumsprite is offline
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pookstreet: thx yes the guys at socal are really friendly.
As soon as I figure out the gph I will order the overflow box.
And I think will also go with a couple of good power heads too.
Would you say about 800gph flow? or less?

mikedege: great thanks. I'm going for simple, but affective

thanks guys,
Miriam
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  #23  
Old 02/15/2007, 01:42 PM
mediumsprite mediumsprite is offline
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cool. thanks. That helps me out alot
so with a 4 1/2 ft. head, the pcx55hp should work out fine?

thx.
Miriam
Quote:
Originally posted by gtrestoration
I'm running a PCX 55HP (1140gph pressure rated) on one tank that's 72" x 12" x 12". The overflow is at one end, the return at the other. My overflow is only 12" long since it's at one end on the tank. That means the tank's holding only 40g.

The top of the overflow is eggcrate, two squares high. With all the water going to the return the thickness of the overflowing water is a little over 1/2". If the overflow was topped with slots as is the norm there's no way it could handle the flow.

The only thing I do in the sump is use a filter sock and that pretty much takes care of the bubbles. Still a few remain and some might not be able to put up with it.

SteveU
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Mediumsprite:)
  #24  
Old 02/15/2007, 03:16 PM
Bebo77 Bebo77 is offline
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if i were you i would run 800 gph through your sump.. this will allow you a smaller sized overflow and smaller pump for a return. there is an overflow box called the "calfo" box it looks like this...





this allows you to still keep valuable real estate in the tank...

you want to think about your return pump. external or internal. this will deterimine the size of your sump.

If you dont want a closed loop a MJ mod, tunze nano stream or a hydor will work for water flow in the tank...
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Want to see my tank? click on my Red House..
  #25  
Old 02/15/2007, 04:58 PM
mediumsprite mediumsprite is offline
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Great! thanks for the pictures Gabriel

Going with external pump, that will give me a dry area where i can also place my chiller. Thinking of going with a 40gal sump, maybe have a custom one made

I got the Gen-X PCX 55HP pump I can "T" it off for the reactors. And after tank is running I'll order two Tunze streams for flow.

For lighting I was thinking 2x250HQI mini pendants.

thanks again to everyone for the help

Miriam
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