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  #26  
Old 01/02/2007, 04:28 PM
northbay-reefer northbay-reefer is offline
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the propeller just got loose from all the clicking
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  #27  
Old 01/02/2007, 07:07 PM
rufio173 rufio173 is offline
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I think for years and years of use, DC must be the way to go. Only a few weeks of wavelike motion just isn't worth it.

Thanks for posting it though. Looks great. I really hope that yours will stand the test of time with the oceanflo kit.

Peace,
John H.
  #28  
Old 01/02/2007, 07:11 PM
rufio173 rufio173 is offline
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Also, why not use two floatswitches for your on/off timing?

Peace,
John H.
  #29  
Old 01/02/2007, 07:54 PM
AndyL AndyL is offline
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Just a thought - regarding MJ-Stream survivability - on smaller tanks, one could probably go with a non-modded MJ, other powerhead or possibly a seio (mine always starts right ymmv)/tunze nano/etc.
  #30  
Old 01/02/2007, 08:04 PM
Roadtoad Roadtoad is offline
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Great mod, I am glad to see someone diy one. I am working on a wavebox that lets the pump run 24/7 and controls the wave by letting water enter the box at periodic intervals.
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  #31  
Old 01/02/2007, 08:18 PM
RandyStacyE RandyStacyE is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Roadtoad
Great mod, I am glad to see someone diy one. I am working on a wavebox that lets the pump run 24/7 and controls the wave by letting water enter the box at periodic intervals.
Sounds interesting ... do you have any deatails or plans drawn up? Sounds like something similar to an idea that has been rollin around in my head for a while.
  #32  
Old 01/02/2007, 08:52 PM
BeanAnimal BeanAnimal is offline
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A rotating gate would work... the rotation speed and shape of the opening would determing the fill and empty timing.

A flapper and solenoid would also work.

With some thought I am sure you guys can come up with some great designs that allow the PH to run unswitched.
  #33  
Old 01/02/2007, 08:57 PM
RandyStacyE RandyStacyE is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by BeanAnimal
A rotating gate would work... the rotation speed and shape of the opening would determing the fill and empty timing.

A flapper and solenoid would also work.

With some thought I am sure you guys can come up with some great designs that allow the PH to run unswitched.
Do you mean 'motorizing a gate valve'? I don't think I've ever seen or heard of anyone do that. That could be an excellent idea even if it doesn't work just like a 'wave box'. It would at the very least be an excellent surge device. If done correctly it could be a 'bubbless surge device'.
  #34  
Old 01/02/2007, 09:27 PM
rufio173 rufio173 is offline
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They already have motorized ball valves (which could work), but I think speed of rotation (not nearly as fast as floatswitches or a computerized controller) as well as cost would be prohibitive.

At that stage, you might as well spend the money on the actual Tunze wavebox.

Unless, you had a truly huge tank and wanted to use like 3-4 streams in the wavebox... then maybe you could go that route.

Peace,
John H.

Quote:
Originally posted by RandyStacyE
Do you mean 'motorizing a gate valve'? I don't think I've ever seen or heard of anyone do that. That could be an excellent idea even if it doesn't work just like a 'wave box'. It would at the very least be an excellent surge device. If done correctly it could be a 'bubbless surge device'.
  #35  
Old 01/02/2007, 09:52 PM
scott324 scott324 is offline
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I just looked at the diagrams on tunze.com to see the logic behind the 'box'. I don't get it, can the same thing not be accomplished by having a PH++ on one side of the tank turning on and off at the right time.

Can someone explain exactly what the box does?
  #36  
Old 01/02/2007, 09:59 PM
RandyStacyE RandyStacyE is offline
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The Tunze empties the box very quickly similar to the MJ mod and trips a float switch ... the water then refills the box until it trips another float switch up high to kick the pump back on. The Tunze and the MJ are two totally different animals though. The technical specifics between the MJ and the Tunze are greek to me though. I believe the Tunze has a controller that not only ramps the pump up and down (like a throttle), but also controls like a timer I believe.
  #37  
Old 01/02/2007, 10:07 PM
scott324 scott324 is offline
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Randy,

Thanks for the post. I didn't see any floats on the mod in this thread, did I miss something.

I also didn;t see any floats on the Tunze site...
  #38  
Old 01/02/2007, 10:08 PM
Roadtoad Roadtoad is offline
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Yes, I am trying to do it by rotating a plexiglass wheel with big holes drilled in it. My biggest problem is to get a simple-yet salt resistant way to have variable speed control on the wheel.

Actually the tunze is just a pump (stream 6200) in a box with a timer-mine doesnt have a float switch. With the pump on, the box is emptied rapidly which raises the tank volume slightly. When off the water rushes back in. The pump creates nice flow but the harmonics of the tank-like a closed end pipe organ- determine what fraction of time the pump needs to be on to get the wave effect. I had drawn up plans to make one using 2 float switches with a latched relay controlling a bilge pump but the arrival of our daughter, finishing up school (after 32 years) and a move to Tejas put a crimp in my DIY efforts.
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  #39  
Old 01/02/2007, 10:16 PM
BeanAnimal BeanAnimal is offline
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That latched relay and floats would not work alone. You would need a combination of adjustable floats and an RC circuit to provide delay for fine tuning in releasing or engaging the latch.


The rotating disc as a viable option but the size and shape of the holes are large variables (along with the rotation speed). I spent a lot of time thinking about this. It would take 2 discs with offset holes for adjustment of hole size. Rotation would be provided by a simple mag drive and DC motor mounted in a watertight box. The DC motor would allow easy speed control.

Then again... the tunze box works well and is pretty easy to DIY with a tunze pump. The controller is a fairly simple timer with a variable width for both the on and off portions of each pulse.

Bean
Bean
  #40  
Old 01/02/2007, 10:26 PM
scott324 scott324 is offline
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I get it now, thanks for the explanation.
  #41  
Old 01/02/2007, 10:37 PM
northbay-reefer northbay-reefer is offline
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another way to get this kind of wave simmilar to the wave box is to use something simmilar to the ball float that push down into the tank to displace the water and then pull back up in a slow continuos motion. kind of like a pumping action of a bicycle pump but wider. The DC motor can be mounted outside of the water with a speed reducing gear set up or using a DC wave maker to controll the motor speed.
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  #42  
Old 01/02/2007, 10:46 PM
BeanAnimal BeanAnimal is offline
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we had a HUGE thread someplace a while back about a plunger based setup. Nobody ever went through with building one though. The idea progressed very well too.
  #43  
Old 01/02/2007, 10:49 PM
smcnally smcnally is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by rufio173
I think for years and years of use, DC must be the way to go. Only a few weeks of wavelike motion just isn't worth it.

Thanks for posting it though. Looks great. I really hope that yours will stand the test of time with the oceanflo kit.

Peace,
John H.
True, I guess only time will tell if this will last for the long haul. I'm ordering up a wave timer to run it off of because I know the relay system I'm using now won't cut it. For those of you interested, I made a new box today and slimmed it down to 4"x6"x12" and the waves it produced were just as nice. Here's a video of the new box. http://youtube.com/watch?v=dCfdVDEWVak
  #44  
Old 01/02/2007, 10:56 PM
saltwater4life1 saltwater4life1 is offline
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looks like it's working just as good I'd like to try this just gotta figure out how i should do it maybe once i get my sump set up i can figure someway out
GOOD LUCK!
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  #45  
Old 01/02/2007, 11:19 PM
dragonforce dragonforce is offline
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I think your on to something great here, keep up the good work.
  #46  
Old 01/02/2007, 11:33 PM
rufio173 rufio173 is offline
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Still looks great! Let us know in a few months and let us know if it is still working!

Peace,
John H.
  #47  
Old 01/02/2007, 11:41 PM
Covey Covey is offline
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As far as getting it to work in the long haul. There are a few design for the maxi-mod that use stoppers that don't hit the prop. The type of stops that hit down at the base could run for months in one of these and be quickily and cheaply rebuildable.

For what it's worth here was my thread on the topic of the Maxi-mod Wavebox for last spring. Again kudos to actually building it.
http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...hreadid=809078
  #48  
Old 01/03/2007, 12:36 AM
lllosingit lllosingit is offline
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I've never seen one in person, Does the water go in and out thru the MJ?
Assuming that's how it works.
Could you attach the box externally at the same level that it would have been inside the tank and run PVC over the top into the tank and get the same effect without taking up so much room or drilling the tank?
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  #49  
Old 01/03/2007, 12:42 AM
natual natual is offline
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smcnally,

I am about to drill a 125 and putting in a wave-type box one of my goals I was just curious where is your overflow(s) located in relation to the back do you have dimensions? and How low is it from the lip on the plastic rim of the tank is the entrance of your overflow.
Is it a standard tank?
Lookin good!
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  #50  
Old 01/03/2007, 12:57 AM
lllosingit lllosingit is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by BeanAnimal
we had a HUGE thread someplace a while back about a plunger based setup. Nobody ever went through with building one though. The idea progressed very well too.
I was thinking something along that line but was thinking of using a externally mounted rectangular shaped box with a smaller rectangular box in the middle that would pull water in one end while pushing it out the other end at the same time. You could use a worm gear and a simple oneway motor and change the flow rate thru gearing.
One inlet/outlet on each end of the tank so as it would pull water from one end of the tank and push it in at the other end at the same time.
You would have the same wave action but the water level in the tank would remain constant since your removing and replacing at the same rate.
I wish I was able to do something with a cad program but I have much to learn LOL.
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