Emergency overflow solenoid?

[edwardj]

I have had an overflow problem. When I lose power, for whatever reason, the water in my tank is usually greater than the capacity of my sump. Or, worse yet, I have a main external pump that supplies my two display tanks, and refugium. If i I would rather not use check valves for fear of them getting clogged. I have taken about every precaution, but i need to have a system where when the level in one of the tanks approaches the top, i can cut off the supply.

At Lowe's, I found an "irrigaton valve" or "in-line valve" that seems to be suitable. It is closed without power, and opens with a line charge. My plan is to install float switches on each tank. In the event of the water rising to high, OR in the event of a power failure, the valve will close. This will stop water flow into the tank, or in the case of a power failure or pump failure, it will prevent a siphon from draining the main tank. I took apart the valve and found a metal part inside.

Does anyone know where i could find a reef-safe 1" solenoid valve?

I appreciate any input.

[larryl]

When I lose power, for whatever reason, the water in my tank is usually greater than the capacity of my sump.

Not sure about preventing the tank overflow with a solenoid, but regarding sump overflow:

The available volume in your sump when the system is running needs to be at least as big as the amount of water that will siphon back into the sump from the tank when the power cuts out. Some options are:

1) Run with a lower water level in your sump

2) Get a bigger sump

3) Reduce the amount of water that siphons back by drilling small anti-siphon holes in the line that sends water to the tank (in the part that is inside the tank, just below tank water level).


Larry

[gath2]

For what your looking to do you would need a valve on the return line that would shut off when you display tank got too high. You would then need another on the drain line when you sump got too high. You need to make sure there is NO metal in the valves that will touch water. Titanium is the only metal that will not rust in salt water.

Larry has the ideas to look into.

There are all kinds of great ideas that would work, but most just complicate things and leave more room for things to go wrong. I considered putting a bulk head at the top of my sump that would drain into a 5 gal bucket. Then having a float switch in the bottom of the bucket. If for some reason the sump overflowed it would go into the bucket. Then when the power returned, the float switch would turn a powerhead on in the bucket and pump the water back into the sump. I don't see why it wouldn't work, but it just complicated things too much. I ended up making anti siphon holes just below the water surface.

[edwardj]

Thanks guys. On of the problems is that I use a wavy sea, and the outlet sits pretty low in the water - I haven't found a good place to make a siphon hole. Also, my pump is pretty strong - it draws a great volume, and if lower the sump too much, i get a nasty microbubble problem. I'm just hoping there would be a reef-safe solenoid type valve. Thanks again - if figure anything out, I'll share. i might just end up putting check vavles on my feeds - i hate to do that for fear of them getting jammed, but I may have no other choice.

[BeanAnimal]

Put a down turned elbow on the intakle of the pump... or build a small manifold with several inlets. It will prevent the water from swirling at the inlet and sucking in air. You can then run a lower water level.

[H20ENG]

Tee into your supply line, as close to the wavy sea as possible. Run a 3/8" line up and over the top of the tank, just under the running water level. You need to secure this well with zip ties, etc to prevent it from popping out of the tank.
When the pump shuts off the tube will suck air and immediately break the siphon.

On larger tanks, I do this with a piece of 1/2" loc line.

[dandy7200]

What Gath2 said about the bulkhead works. I use the same setup because my sump is a planted display that I like to keep filled to the max. I have mine plumbed to a floor drain so I can do water changes by running more water into the system than what it should have, recirculate, then turn off the pumps and voila, waterchange!
BTW a 1" solinoid with a titanium core is going to cost big bucks IF you can even find one.

[scrager]

you could try this...

rather than creating siphon hole, or using a solenoid to stop water when the power goes out, why not use a solenoid to control a siphon hole? you could get away with a much smaller solenoid this way, and it would probably never come in contact with water...only air.

T off the return line, adapt down to the size of your solenoid. put the solenoid on the end and put it up high (top of your canopy). when power is on, the solenoid should be closed. when power goes off, solenoid opens, air gets in and breaks the siphon. when power is restored, solenoid closes, air pressure prevents water from getting in the smaller tube and getting to the solenoid.

this is all a theory, but it would be worth a try. if you try it, let me know cause i think i might put it on my own tank whenever i set it up.

[KEITHMC]

just beaware if you use a siphon hole use 2 or more so a snail cannot ruin your day!