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#26
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I've never had a hair algae problem, but on occasion I used to have a cyano problem.
Best thing I ever did to get rid of the cyano was to add filtration components that get rid of the excess nutrients in the water. In this case, I'm not sure where they're coming from, but they're definitely there...if they weren't, the hair algae wouldn't grow. My solution was two-fold...(1) I added an ozone generator (I added a cheap coralife one I got at a LFS for about $80...50mg for my 90 gallon tank...set to "low setting" and run 24/7 with input to the protein skimmer), and (2) I added a small (3 gallon) HOB refugium and added about 1/2 pound of caulpera (grape and prolifera) and about 1/4 pound of cheatomorpha. Haven't had problems with any kind of algae since...(my coralline grows wonderfully, though I don't consider this to be a problem...) Hope this helps. It's a more expensive solution, but increasing the efficiency of your protein skimmer through O3 injection and adding the refugium sure did the trick for me... Good luck. |
#27
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Like I said in the beginning.
Cooking your rock is a HUGE step in the right direction of lowering nutrients in your system.
__________________
My tank is cool. It has light bulbs a big bubble maker thingy and little boxes that blow water. It is way cool. |
#28
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Thanks, cooking the rocks worked. But I still have 3 small rocks with corals on them that I cant cook. Those rocks are still in the tank and they still have hair algae on them. There has to be a way to control the hair algea on those three small rocks?
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#29
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Sure is...skimming, astrea's and cerith's.
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My tank is cool. It has light bulbs a big bubble maker thingy and little boxes that blow water. It is way cool. |
#30
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FxdupCobra, did you literally COOK your rocks? I am confused because you went from looking for ideas to saying something 'worked' in a period of just a few hours. Cooking refers to keeping your rocks in a dark container for a few months for all the junk to fall out, without light to allow algal growth.
Good water quality, low nutrients, and low phosphate will control algae growth in your tank.
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Beware the power of stupid people in large groups..... |
#31
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How long do you run your lights? You could lower the light cycle to 6 to 8 hours. Also does your tank get lots of direct sunlight?
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#32
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I am FxdUpCobra's girlfriend. It's my tank that's having the problem.
We have "cooked" the rocks for 3 weeks now and all the algae is gone off of those rocks. However, in the main tank we have 3 rocks that have corals on them (thus we can't cook them) and the algae on those rocks is still growing despite the fact that my tank has 0 nitrates and 0 phosphates. I don't even have a fish in the main tank. We are just looking for guidance since it seems like we've tried everything. By the way, the tank has no sunlight on it and I decreased the lighting down to 8 hours a day. |
#33
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Can anybody help are there any other recommendations please?!?!?!?
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#34
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It would be helpful if you posted your full set up... esp all the filteration. What kind of water you use for WCes...ECT.
If I had your set up I would: 1) set up a temp bucket/Rubbermaid or something on top or above your tank. Use a powerhead to shoot up water and let it overflow back into the main tank. Use this to hold your few corals. 2) Block off all light from the main tank. for at least 2 months or until the rocks stop dropping stuff. 3) Take out all the sand. Preferably never put it back... But, if you must just put new sand in when it’s all over "cooking" not before. 4) Other than blowing off the rocks, WC and sucking out detritus. Don't add or feed anything for a long time. Remember Just because your water tests OK for fish, does not mean the sand and rocks are not storing bad stuff. You need to not only REALLY get the stuff out of your rocks, but you also need to give your system time enough to turn fully over from algae dominated to bacteria dominated. A month will not do it. |
#35
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you didnt mention any water changes, I would do a big water change and then some smaller ones. more snails would probably help, turbos or astreas are good algea grazers. a refugium would also help reduce nutrients. I think a few good water changes would go a long way. are the filters on your ro di unit still in good shape. if they are bad you could be putting nutrients into your tank that way.
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I feel so alive... |
#36
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Water changes are made in part 4 (sucking the detrius OUT of the tank). But, as long as the nutrient sinks are holding in the P, WCes are going to do little for the battle.
I agree about the snails. ESP after the "cooking", astria and ceriths are good if you have a skimmer or something to get out what they proccess. |
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