Skimmer upgrade

[Thinslis]

Its not crushed coral, its play sand and its about 4" thick.

[CleveYank]

I recall bond007 was using regular play sand with no issues when I was at his house last spring to pick up some frags. At least he said he was having none. Somehow I doubt that is the lions share of your nutrient issues.

I think the bulbs. Adding a Kalk drip may assist in bringing the phosphates down via some phosphate precipitation that even your current skimmer should help pull out. And if you can come up with either chemical or fuge means to efficiently kick the nitrates down, linked with the lowering your "input" to enough to keep things fed but not overfed, you should see some really good changes.

[Kreeger1]

I don't think bond007 ever ran sand. I think hes a big one for the no sand theory
Erik

[Aadler]

Oh, I thought you had crushed coral, the play sand, while not ideal, has been used by many people without major issue, however the 4" is in no mans land as far as depth is concerned.

Where is the rock from?

[Thinslis]

The rock is a mix bag, some from SC, some from AT, some from AA, some from other reefers.

On the plus side, my GBTA is looking much better, his tenticles are actually starting to bubble again.

I'm going to try hooking up the Phos reactor tonight, how much media should I put in it? 2-3"? I have no idea, the flow should cause a light tumble on the top of the media?

What about running carbon this way? Same principle?

[GSMguy]

you can run GFO and carbon in the same reactor actually, and change them both at the same time.

[Thinslis]

Ok I got my Phosban and Carbon running now.

[oldreefer76]

What bulb are you using over the chaeto?

[CleveYank]

The sump appears to have an efficiency issue. Something along the lines or order of input water from the tank to: Skimmer, fuge, chemical and return to the tank in that order may work better. (there is a side note on the fuge that is a tad different below)

If my understanding and the photo's dimentional perception is correct.
That skimmer looks like it could be upgraded to add recirc about as easy as falling down the stairs. And the mesh mods or adding a beckett would have it cranking.

The fact that the sump appears to have algae growing everywhere and not just in the fuge area would bother me. I'd try to prevent light from bleeding into the other chambers if possible.

And along the lines of where I think oldreefer76 is heading towards. I would lose the incandescent grow bulb and move to like a 65 watt lights of america DAYLIGHT bulb/fixture or a compact flouro daylight.

Are you turning that tanks total volume in at least a true 450 gallons per hour or higher through the sump? The manner in which the skimmer and chambers are setup. IF the tank turnover is not 3 times or greater you will not be allowing enough tank water to be exposed to your skimmer fast enough. Thereby greatly inhibiting any skimmer you would have to begin with.

The fuge on the other hand, most info suggests a bit lower flow and probably why most separate those into their own loops either within the sump or in and out of the main on their own separate path. If you had a feed to and from the tank and separated the fuge from the rest of the sump with some blue or black acrylic and had it on a separate loop you would stop light bleed through into the rest of your sump and you would tailor the flow for it.

Then use the other 2 sides for Skimmer/chemical/effluent/ and bump the flow through it in the 3 to 7 times total tank volume or 450 to 1050 of ACTUAL FLOW with pump head/loss twists and turns taken into account.

[Kreeger1]

Adding a becket would be like totally changing the skimmer design. That skimmer isn't designed for a becket nor does it have a pump capable of pushing a beckett. Mesh modding is a good idea if you can test correctly for it.

The 65 watt lights of america bulb works great for a fuge.

The skimmer looks to be running fine IMO

[Thinslis]

Why would you say it has an efficency issue? What is wrong with having a sump on one side and a fuge on the other? It was my understanding that you don't want the full sump flow going through the fuge only 10/20% of total sump flow?

[CleveYank]

Originally posted by Kreeger1


The skimmer looks to be running fine IMO

I kinda agree with you Erik...this time. Sort of.
The skimmer appears to be. But folks out there are apparently modding this particular skimmer and if they are rated at 180 gallons and he has a 150 with rocks and sand and the sump he's probably above the 1 1/2 to infinity skimmer capacity that I have noted on the tank of the month winners who do run skimmers.

I would probably mod the thing to increase it's rating to compensate as Kevin had earlier suggested before I would consider upgrading given the expense.

[Thinslis]

The key with the mesh mod and others is A. Knowing what your doing B. Monitoring the pump with a Kill A Watt device to make sure you don't overload the pump. I don't have a dremel and I don't have a Kill A Watt so there are expenses either way I look at it.

[CleveYank]

Originally posted by Thinslis
Why would you say it has an efficency issue? What is wrong with having a sump on one side and a fuge on the other? It was my understanding that you don't want the full sump flow going through the fuge only 10/20% of total sump flow?

Efficiency
What's your total TRUE pump or return output back to your tank?
You want 3 to 7 times some even say higher...again think on the line of Tank of the Month folks, tank volume turnover. The MORE TANK WATER that can flow to and from your skimmer will naturally increase your skimmers efficiency/impact.

And your sump...unless that's other gunk...appears to have light bleeding over to the other areas and micro algae is all over the place. This grows and dies and grows and dies. Adding nutrients along the way as it does so.


The micro competes with the chaeto. You have micro growing elsewhere and not isolated in the best environment. Why is having it growing all over your sump and spreading it's real estate for growth a bad thing?
****And the worst part...adds another source for the microscopic cells of micro algae to continue to inhabit and spread throughout your system. Limiting this to as small an area as possible and using the best light for your macro will also inhibit the micro algae.

[CleveYank]

Originally posted by Thinslis
The key with the mesh mod and others is A. Knowing what your doing B. Monitoring the pump with a Kill A Watt device to make sure you don't overload the pump. I don't have a dremel and I don't have a Kill A Watt so there are expenses either way I look at it.

I do have a dremel. You never asked. Not sure if this is even an issue. But while I beg your pardon and realize that I am surely not one of the"chosen ones" of C-sea.

Need help?
I'd be more than happy to assist if I can.

I bet if you inquire with Kevin, whom I believe has done the enkemat mod as well as other nifty mods and inventions would probably give some pointers to assist.

Another resource that would not just be winging it.
RC member: luke33 is someone who I would inquire with before I did anything.
This thread gives a clue that he definately could offer some advice as well.
http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...readid=1284642

Hope that helps.

[Kreeger1]

I think just about every skimmer out there has been modded or there is a thread about how to mod them. I see no realdesign difference between this skimmer, asm, euro reef ect. Its all the same principals involved in makeing the foam. Just different pump/ materials used to make the tube ect. All should preform about the same give or take
Erik

[Thinslis]

The bulb in the fuge light is a PC 65w 5500k bulb.

Thank you for the offer for help CleveYank, I may have to take you up on that. The only thing we would need is the Kill A Watt. I'll see how much those are.

I just spend $300 on a generator today since I've been with out power twice now since the first of the year.

I'd still like to talk about the sump design...

Also here is a picture of the algae issue.

[Kreeger1]

That could be bryopsis a hole different ball game then. Can you get a close up of one of the patches.
Erik

[Thinslis]

This is the best I can do.

[Kreeger1]

Looks like hair algae, so I'd say your lucky on that. I'd bet in a few weeks running the reactors and your water changes it should clear up.

[Thinslis]

How often should I change my Phosban media? The container said once a month...

Also, Do I need to change my sump design? to be Sump ===> Fuge ====> Return?

[Kreeger1]

I've seen t set up your way before, I see no real draw backs from that.
I set mine up as skimmer, fuge, return to help with micro bubbles. If you don't have micro bubbles I don't see how that will make a real impact.
refugiums were designed as a place to let things grow in a safe manor, Thats what yours is doing so I'd say that I'd leave it that way.

I might also knock the photo period back some for a few weeks too.
How long are your lights on the tank?
Just until the problem is fixed that is

[Thinslis]

Attinics on at 11am
Daylights on at 12pm
Daylights off at 6pm
Attinics off at 7pm
Moonlights from 7pm to 11am

So 8 hours

Should I increase the flow into the fuge, its only about 1/4 of the total flow through the sump which is about 700gph

[Kreeger1]

I'd say it wouldn't hurt to do that. Maybe rip your chaeto up a little to incourage more growth ends?
I'd change the phosoban once a month. Is it sort of bubbling in the reactor? the top surface should move a little sort of rumble I guess
Erik

[Thinslis]

Yes, the flow is enough to make the whole top surface move but is just short of causing particles blow tumble off the surface and into the water collum. The carbon doesn't move or tumble, should I increase the flow on that reactor? They are not chained.

Also, should I cut my photo period down to say 1pm Attinics 2pm Daylights 6pm Daylights off 7pm Attinics off (6 hours instead of 8 hours)?