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#1
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talk about timers
Happy New Year!
A good time to talk about timers IMO. I've been using the rather inexpensive 3 prong (grounded) heavy duty Intermatic timers for 14 years. One caveat with them: they aren't backed up by a battery. This means that if the power goes out they need to be reset. This isn't a big deal for certain things (normally) but I do recall returning from a vacation a few years ago to find my aquarium lights on at 1 AM (not good)! I'm in the process of upgrading my system. Let's hear some suggestions for reliable timers that aren't affected by power outages. oh... and play it safe tonight. I want to see all of you here tomorrow.
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some common aquarium nuisances: Bryopsis,Derbesia(hair algae),Cyanobacteria(red slime), Diatoms(golden brown algae), Dinoflagellates(gooey air bubbles),Valonia (bubble algae) |
#2
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I've been using this one from Harbor Freight:
It's been reliable for 6 months and does not need to be reset after a power outage. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=95205
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Scott |
#3
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wow. At $9.99 that timer looks like an unbeatable bargain if it proves to be reliable long term.
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some common aquarium nuisances: Bryopsis,Derbesia(hair algae),Cyanobacteria(red slime), Diatoms(golden brown algae), Dinoflagellates(gooey air bubbles),Valonia (bubble algae) |
#4
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I've been looking for a cheapo to set up my nano. I think we may have a winner.
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....love to prove that, wouldn't ya. Get your name in The National Geographic.... |
#5
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haha looks like the much more expensive ice cap timers....lol...looks like some one is doing a little mod and repackaging/ or just coming from the same factory anyways. the fronts look idenical...lol...
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#6
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All i have are the harbor freight ones. I've got 2 on my 65tall and 2 on my nano and man i love it. The only thing is that I think you can run the two plugs independently on separate times, but i can't figure out how to do it. Anyone know?
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#7
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And once every 4-6 weeks they go on sale for $5.99 too.
Also, the Water Overflow Alarm is nice to have anywhere you might be worried about your water level.
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><((((º>`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸.·´¯`·...¸><((((º> ·´¯`·.¸. , . .·´¯`·>((((º>·´¯`·.¸. , . .·´¯ ><((((º>`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸.·´¯`·...¸><((((º> ·´¯`·.¸. , . .·´¯`·>((((º>·´¯`·.¸. , . .·´¯ |
#8
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I use the same harbor freight ones the nice thing is they dont need to be reset when the power goes out either
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#9
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Quote:
Wow. I'm glad that I started this thread!
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some common aquarium nuisances: Bryopsis,Derbesia(hair algae),Cyanobacteria(red slime), Diatoms(golden brown algae), Dinoflagellates(gooey air bubbles),Valonia (bubble algae) |
#10
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yea very nice to see how ice cap jacks the price huh? wonder how much those elec ballasts really cost...lol
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#11
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I'm confused- does the Icecap version do something that the Harbor Freight one cannot?
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some common aquarium nuisances: Bryopsis,Derbesia(hair algae),Cyanobacteria(red slime), Diatoms(golden brown algae), Dinoflagellates(gooey air bubbles),Valonia (bubble algae) |
#12
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Check the specs on both closely and assume nothing. Some timers may look alike but in reality they are not. Vanilla packaging. I had one I was using on our pool go up in smoke the same week I bought it. It was not a cheap one but not the most expensive either. Looked just like the more expensive one but was not rated the same. My fault for not reading them. Some can only handle certain amounts of amperage and or wattage. Some are only made to turn house lights on and off. The appliance ones are usually the better rated and built ones. Check this carefully. I did end up buying the better one and have had no problems in the two years I’ve used it. The cheap ones may work fine with some low draw items. As always you get what you pay for.
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Dave |
#13
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good points. Dave- that's why I'm asking.
The Icecap version obviously has an additional box below it. Who knows what else is different internally? There must be a difference between the two... right?
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some common aquarium nuisances: Bryopsis,Derbesia(hair algae),Cyanobacteria(red slime), Diatoms(golden brown algae), Dinoflagellates(gooey air bubbles),Valonia (bubble algae) |
#14
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Ice cap:
Input Line Voltage 100-140 VAC (50/60Hz) Maximum Output Current 16A (For Lighting Load); 1600 (20A x 100VAC) Memory backup One 1.2 VDC, NI-CA Rechargeable Battery Harbor freight: Power Source: 115V~60Hz Overall Dimensions: 3-1/2” W X 3” H X 3” D Net Weight: .5 Lb LCD Display: 1-1/2” W X 1/2” H Functions: On, Off, Auto, Week, Hour, Minute, R (to undo a setting), Clock, Program Maximum Amperage: 15 Amps Outlet Plugs on Unit: (2) 3 Prong Plugs into AC outlet, UL Listed 12V Battery – to be replaced by a Board Certified Electrician ONLY
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Dave |
#15
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As most everyone knows I am in the process of moving and thus my DIY project for a controller is on a short term hold.
However, I felt compelled to respond to this thread as part of my motivation to build the controller is the fact that most timers do not deliver what one hopes they will when used. I have found many that do the job, but over time, the time period slips. In other words, start out with 12 photo period from 10am to 10pm. It isn't long before the photo is 11 to 11 or 9 to 9. The unit I am building is NOT battery backed, but if I lose power, I only have to reset the internal real time clock and everything will be back on schedule. It baffles me there is a lack of good dependable timers when they are relatively inexpensive to make. If I had the ability to make plastic molds for the case, I might venture into myself. I am a bit perplexed by Dave's post regarding the Harbor Freight timer.... "12V Battery - to be replaced by a Board Certified Electrician Only" What is a Board Certified Electrician? Have never heard of that and I have been in the business for over 30 years.... Just my 2 cents.... Bryan
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**~~Bryan~~** |
#16
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i am pretty sure the board cer elec is just a certifided electrican. so anyone who is certified by the state or county to be an electrican. it is a law suit issue, if they said any old fool couls change the battery then the house caught on fire they could be sued, but this way they cover there butts. as well i have had a few diff times that were digital an i havnt run into the problem of the time degrade as fast as you had made it out to be. maybe over a period of a year it loses about 10 mins on the main time clock so the lights go off 10 mins earlyer. never had the problem with the actual times the unit came on or off only with the units actual time. but they look pretty comparable idk i've seen alot of people using the harbor frieght ones with no issues. and the ice cap on has to be hard wire which is just an extra step.
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#17
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*assuming these timers work identically*
what's the shortest on/off interval that you can program?
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some common aquarium nuisances: Bryopsis,Derbesia(hair algae),Cyanobacteria(red slime), Diatoms(golden brown algae), Dinoflagellates(gooey air bubbles),Valonia (bubble algae) |
#18
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Quote:
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Scott |
#19
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yes i believe most every digital timers can be set to as low as 1 min intervals.
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#20
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Why BUY when you can DIY |
#21
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Great thread Gary...MK
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#22
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Around this time last year I picked up 4 - 8 outlet power strips with a digital timer. They are basically like the brand name ones here, except all 4 timer outlets are on the timer (not the brand name 2 on, 2 reversed). Otherwise the construction is exactly the same (even the documentation looked to be the same maker). I got them for $1.99 each at Lowes. I would keep my I out for them in the clearance Christmas section's at home supply or other stores that had a big Christmas section.
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#23
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Quote:
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some common aquarium nuisances: Bryopsis,Derbesia(hair algae),Cyanobacteria(red slime), Diatoms(golden brown algae), Dinoflagellates(gooey air bubbles),Valonia (bubble algae) |
#24
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i believe what he is saying is he gets a power strip and a digital time from home depot, 2 different items and if he is getting a digital time from HD i am pretty sure they are all battery backup.
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