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  #1  
Old 12/21/2007, 08:13 AM
Malifluous Malifluous is offline
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Cutting coast to coast overflow

Would a rotozip with a diamond cutting wheel be the best way to cut into the tank to make a coast to coast overflow? I saw one thread that used a router after emoving the trim but seems hard to find any info about how to do this. Using a dremel seem a little sloppy.
  #2  
Old 12/21/2007, 09:33 AM
GrandeGixxer GrandeGixxer is offline
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Look at the first page of my build thread(red house). It explains the steps I used to cut mine.
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  #3  
Old 12/21/2007, 04:31 PM
Malifluous Malifluous is offline
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Nice tank you built. What tools did you use to make the cut of the weir. I could not find any steps in you thread.
  #4  
Old 12/21/2007, 04:51 PM
GrandeGixxer GrandeGixxer is offline
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Sorry, I thought it was on there. Here is a snippet from another thread I posted it in.

"It is really not hard to cut and work with glass, but as a disclaimer, it is also not too hard to chip it or mess it up. I chipped my overflow when cutting it because I got in a rush. Luckily I was able to work around the mistake. You could possibly get a glass shop to cut it for you. The way I did it was by using a 45mm diamond hole saw(the only size I have since I usually run 1" bulkheads), I cut the 2 corners. Then I put a straightedge(metal) and used a diamond tipped dremel bit and went along the straightedge. To clean it up, I used an orbital sander with aluminum oxide sandpaper and rounded the top edges and made sure nothing was sharp. With the dremel tip I had(I was cheap and should have gotten a better one), it took forever. What I did was just kinda up and down like a angled sawing motion while a buddy of mine held the hose keeping it nice and wet/cool. I should also mention that I used the extension attachment for the dremel so I didn't have to worry about getting the dremel itself wet and rusting out the bearings. Good luck and if you need any more guidance, let me know."
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  #5  
Old 12/21/2007, 05:37 PM
Malifluous Malifluous is offline
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I like that method. Thanks for your time.
  #6  
Old 12/21/2007, 06:25 PM
Malifluous Malifluous is offline
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Is it better to use a diamond tipped disc or the tip with the small diamond encrusted ball on the end, tapered bit??
  #7  
Old 12/21/2007, 06:46 PM
SuperAWE SuperAWE is offline
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Be sure to wear safety glasses, when drilling or dremeling glass.
  #8  
Old 12/21/2007, 09:08 PM
GrandeGixxer GrandeGixxer is offline
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I used the tapered bit. I would not be opposed to trying the disk, I just couldn't find one when I was looking for it. With the bit I used, it took what seemed like forever.
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  #9  
Old 12/21/2007, 09:10 PM
GrandeGixxer GrandeGixxer is offline
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BTW, I totally forgot to wear safety glasses when I was cutting mine. Do people actually wear those things if they are not mandated by their work?
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  #10  
Old 12/22/2007, 01:52 AM
Malifluous Malifluous is offline
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One more question please.... When you used the hole saw for each corner, did about 25% of the hole saw spin in the air (above the rim of the tank) or did u put the hole right below the rim. The reason I ask is im worried if using a hole saw so close to the top can cause a crack.
  #11  
Old 12/22/2007, 07:19 AM
JayB1224 JayB1224 is offline
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Safety glasses should always be worn while drilling or cutting glass. I work with a guy that lost an eye while core drilling glass on a bridgeport. A 1mm shard was all it took to take his eye. BE SAFE.
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  #12  
Old 12/22/2007, 11:12 AM
GrandeGixxer GrandeGixxer is offline
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Yes, part of the bit was hanging over the edge of the glass. The way I determined where the bottom of the weir would be is this; I measured about 1/4" above the black trim while it was installed. This way, I never see the waterline while the tank is running. Are you familiar with drilling glass already and how to start the hole?
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  #13  
Old 12/22/2007, 12:38 PM
rustybucket145 rustybucket145 is offline
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Has anybody ever used a tile saw to cut one of these? Seems like it would be pretty much the same as the dremel bit, just much faster. When I had granite counters installed the guy cut out the sink hole with a tile saw. Cut very nicely....

Anyways, just thought I'd ask...
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  #14  
Old 12/22/2007, 02:19 PM
reeffer1 reeffer1 is offline
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The rotozip tile bit is what I used to cut mine, and it worked great. Cut it just like butter!
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  #15  
Old 12/22/2007, 02:48 PM
Malifluous Malifluous is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by GrandeGixxer
Yes, part of the bit was hanging over the edge of the glass. The way I determined where the bottom of the weir would be is this; I measured about 1/4" above the black trim while it was installed. This way, I never see the waterline while the tank is running. Are you familiar with drilling glass already and how to start the hole?
I have never cut glass with a hole saw but I have read plenty and watched a few videos. I have access to a drill press and may use that if i can manuever the tank under it. I am worried that the drill press may offer control but it may be hard to control the amount of pressure. Cordless drill maybe the way to go . Im trying to find a guide for the rorozip.

reeffer1, did you use a guide?
  #16  
Old 12/22/2007, 05:24 PM
GrandeGixxer GrandeGixxer is offline
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I don't know about the drill press. When I cut a hole though, I start the bit at and angle. As soon as it has gone in a little bit, I hold the bit upright so now I have a full circle. Then I start occilating(sp) the drill around so it doesn't hang up or anything that could possible crack the glass. This is all done applying minimal pressure to the glass. When I see a little water going through the other side, I stand the bit back up and hardly press on it at all until it goes through. This is to minimize chip out on the other side. Make sure you have a towel or something soft for the piece of glass to fall onto because it could crack the glass if it fell at the right angle. If I were you, I would find a local glass shop and get a piece of 1/4" plate glass about 12"x12" and practice drilling a couple of holes and a couple of straight line cuts with the dremel. This sample glass wouldn't cost more than 3-5 bucks, but it could save you a lot more if you jump into doing the tank before you are completely comfortable.

As for the tile saw, that is a big investment for a 1 time project. I dont know how easy it would be though manuvering a tank around a small tile saw unless you are talking about a different type of tile saw? HTH, Joe.
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  #17  
Old 12/22/2007, 05:57 PM
Malifluous Malifluous is offline
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I plan on using a rotozip with diamond cutting wheel. Its like a big dremmel. I dont think i will have the patience to cut with a dremmel and may try to rush and crack it.
  #18  
Old 12/22/2007, 09:24 PM
GrandeGixxer GrandeGixxer is offline
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Sounds good, let us know how it turns out. I would definatly try on a practice piece before trying on the tank though.
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  #19  
Old 12/22/2007, 10:15 PM
Malifluous Malifluous is offline
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Ya i will practice first. Thanks for all your help.
  #20  
Old 12/23/2007, 02:42 AM
GrandeGixxer GrandeGixxer is offline
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NO problem, good luck.
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  #21  
Old 12/23/2007, 10:23 AM
reeffer1 reeffer1 is offline
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No, I cut mine free hand, with a lot of patiance it can be done. I would recommend the rotozip tile bit it works much better than the diamond dremmel bits. Just remember lubricate lubricate lubricate..........
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