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#1
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Cutting coast to coast overflow
Would a rotozip with a diamond cutting wheel be the best way to cut into the tank to make a coast to coast overflow? I saw one thread that used a router after emoving the trim but seems hard to find any info about how to do this. Using a dremel seem a little sloppy.
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#2
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Look at the first page of my build thread(red house). It explains the steps I used to cut mine.
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Joe Cude Save a reef, trade a frag! |
#3
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Nice tank you built. What tools did you use to make the cut of the weir. I could not find any steps in you thread.
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#4
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Sorry, I thought it was on there. Here is a snippet from another thread I posted it in.
"It is really not hard to cut and work with glass, but as a disclaimer, it is also not too hard to chip it or mess it up. I chipped my overflow when cutting it because I got in a rush. Luckily I was able to work around the mistake. You could possibly get a glass shop to cut it for you. The way I did it was by using a 45mm diamond hole saw(the only size I have since I usually run 1" bulkheads), I cut the 2 corners. Then I put a straightedge(metal) and used a diamond tipped dremel bit and went along the straightedge. To clean it up, I used an orbital sander with aluminum oxide sandpaper and rounded the top edges and made sure nothing was sharp. With the dremel tip I had(I was cheap and should have gotten a better one), it took forever. What I did was just kinda up and down like a angled sawing motion while a buddy of mine held the hose keeping it nice and wet/cool. I should also mention that I used the extension attachment for the dremel so I didn't have to worry about getting the dremel itself wet and rusting out the bearings. Good luck and if you need any more guidance, let me know."
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Joe Cude Save a reef, trade a frag! |
#5
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I like that method. Thanks for your time.
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#6
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Is it better to use a diamond tipped disc or the tip with the small diamond encrusted ball on the end, tapered bit??
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#7
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Be sure to wear safety glasses, when drilling or dremeling glass.
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#8
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I used the tapered bit. I would not be opposed to trying the disk, I just couldn't find one when I was looking for it. With the bit I used, it took what seemed like forever.
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Joe Cude Save a reef, trade a frag! |
#9
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BTW, I totally forgot to wear safety glasses when I was cutting mine. Do people actually wear those things if they are not mandated by their work?
__________________
Joe Cude Save a reef, trade a frag! |
#10
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One more question please.... When you used the hole saw for each corner, did about 25% of the hole saw spin in the air (above the rim of the tank) or did u put the hole right below the rim. The reason I ask is im worried if using a hole saw so close to the top can cause a crack.
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#11
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Safety glasses should always be worn while drilling or cutting glass. I work with a guy that lost an eye while core drilling glass on a bridgeport. A 1mm shard was all it took to take his eye. BE SAFE.
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Jason |
#12
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Yes, part of the bit was hanging over the edge of the glass. The way I determined where the bottom of the weir would be is this; I measured about 1/4" above the black trim while it was installed. This way, I never see the waterline while the tank is running. Are you familiar with drilling glass already and how to start the hole?
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Joe Cude Save a reef, trade a frag! |
#13
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Has anybody ever used a tile saw to cut one of these? Seems like it would be pretty much the same as the dremel bit, just much faster. When I had granite counters installed the guy cut out the sink hole with a tile saw. Cut very nicely....
Anyways, just thought I'd ask...
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90gal display 40gal propagation/refugium tank 30gal sump |
#14
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The rotozip tile bit is what I used to cut mine, and it worked great. Cut it just like butter!
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If I only had a brain!! |
#15
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Quote:
reeffer1, did you use a guide? |
#16
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I don't know about the drill press. When I cut a hole though, I start the bit at and angle. As soon as it has gone in a little bit, I hold the bit upright so now I have a full circle. Then I start occilating(sp) the drill around so it doesn't hang up or anything that could possible crack the glass. This is all done applying minimal pressure to the glass. When I see a little water going through the other side, I stand the bit back up and hardly press on it at all until it goes through. This is to minimize chip out on the other side. Make sure you have a towel or something soft for the piece of glass to fall onto because it could crack the glass if it fell at the right angle. If I were you, I would find a local glass shop and get a piece of 1/4" plate glass about 12"x12" and practice drilling a couple of holes and a couple of straight line cuts with the dremel. This sample glass wouldn't cost more than 3-5 bucks, but it could save you a lot more if you jump into doing the tank before you are completely comfortable.
As for the tile saw, that is a big investment for a 1 time project. I dont know how easy it would be though manuvering a tank around a small tile saw unless you are talking about a different type of tile saw? HTH, Joe.
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Joe Cude Save a reef, trade a frag! |
#17
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I plan on using a rotozip with diamond cutting wheel. Its like a big dremmel. I dont think i will have the patience to cut with a dremmel and may try to rush and crack it.
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#18
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Sounds good, let us know how it turns out. I would definatly try on a practice piece before trying on the tank though.
__________________
Joe Cude Save a reef, trade a frag! |
#19
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Ya i will practice first. Thanks for all your help.
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#20
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NO problem, good luck.
__________________
Joe Cude Save a reef, trade a frag! |
#21
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No, I cut mine free hand, with a lot of patiance it can be done. I would recommend the rotozip tile bit it works much better than the diamond dremmel bits. Just remember lubricate lubricate lubricate..........
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If I only had a brain!! |
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