Skimmer finished...pics

ClayWagner · #1 12/17/2007, 08:13 PM

Well, finally fabricated my so called "ER RC-180". Think what you'd like, but the results show that it works

. I wasn't going for the aesthetically pleasing look, because it will be completely covered for only me to see. On the other hand, I did strive for structurally sound and a concern on future possible leaks. If you have any questions just ask, anything negative...go ahead and keep it to yourself. Things I'd do different: get the pump closer to the skimmer body (probably using threaded nipples with threaded unions). I did what I could with lots of scrap, help with many DIYers right here (gave me lots of ideas), college bugdet, and limited tools (don't have an extensive tool supply at 19

). That scum...a half hour of ten gallons water from a recent water change. Either it really works, or my tank is disgusting and I just didn't know it! Didn't even dream of getting skimmate, thought there was a "break in" period from manufacturing glues, adhesive residues, etc. but I guess not. Tell me what you think!

Clay

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...r/IMG_1582.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...r/IMG_1580.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...r/IMG_1575.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...r/IMG_1589.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...r/IMG_1590.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...r/IMG_1591.jpg

Dave Dunbar · #2 12/17/2007, 08:30 PM

Looks very good cant believe the skimmate!!!
Where did you get the reducer cone? Is that a 6"x2"?
Good luck
Dave

LedZep fan2 · #3 12/17/2007, 08:32 PM

How about some a explaination on how you made it? I am planning on building one and would need some specs. Thanks

ClayWagner · #4 12/17/2007, 09:23 PM

No problem. I wasn't entirely worried about the clarity from the neck down because I knew that with my DIY venturi, 1/4" airhole, and 2 layers of mesh and it would get that desired "milky" white, so I used 8" PVC and a 8x4" reducer coupling (scrap whooo!). The bottom is 3/8" PVC sheet (very rigid). I cut some of the pieces down to 1) take off some bulkyness/weight 2)make it look less like a space ship

. The riser tube is a 4.5" OD acrylic tube which was only 8 bucks and the collection cup was from Linens and Things (used to have a bunch of medal on it so you can snap it closed...was removed. Got it from an idea of someone in a DIY forum) which was PERFECT for this application. Everything was structurally adhered with PVC cement and sealed with apoxy for longevity reasons...This guy is monsterous, with a body of 8x18" for my 90 gallon but I plan on adding more livestock (more towards the heavy bioload) so it will work out.

kingsland · #5 12/17/2007, 10:42 PM

Would you mind doing a step by step explanation?

funman1 · #6 12/17/2007, 10:54 PM

Nice!!!
Need a, How Too.!!!

Here's the pics for those too lazy to click on the links....

pescadero · #7 12/17/2007, 11:42 PM

Clay, I love that 8x4 reducer. where in the heck do you find those?

a couple of other questions:

do you know where you can find threaded unions? i've only been able to find slip-fit unions, and I've had to trim them down and glue female threaded connectors to them in order to keep the overall length down so i could mount the pump close to the body.

how tall is your reaction chamber?

what type of pump did you select, and how did you come to choose it?

finally, can you provide some details on your venturi design? you used mesh?

pescadero · #8 12/17/2007, 11:43 PM

Clay, you must live somewhere warm. i have 8 inches of snow in my driveway!

ClayWagner · #9 12/18/2007, 12:03 AM

Double Post

ClayWagner · #10 12/18/2007, 12:04 AM

My friend's dad had the 8x4" reducer. Gave it to me (retails for 20 bucks). It's a DWV (drain-waste-vent) fitting so less PVC, but less pressure ability. The normal reducer coupling is about 70 bucks! Threaded unions can be found on numerous aquarium sites, plumbing stores (ace hardware has em along with gate valves locally), and sites such as usplastics.com. The reaction chamber is 18" with a 12" riser. OTP 3000 is the pump and I got it because with a big air intake and little mesh you can get 30-40 scfh everytime. Plus...it's running about 40 watts! (rated at 65 though). It's a high air low water turb pump. I was going to experiment with a laguna or aquabee...but didn't. I'll have to show you the venturi. It's much like one explained on a DIY forum (some recirc pump forum that JCTewks described). I found it better to NOT have the 1/2" pipe insert in there though. And the location is Orlando! But it just got to 40 tonight and I'm a Florida boy...that's freakin cold to me HA! But you northerners wouldn't survive in our 100 degree weather

. I'll take more pics when I can and describe the build process later. I actually think I need to get a heater soon!

pescadero · #11 12/18/2007, 02:10 AM

Ace has threaded unions? Looks like I'm headed to Ace.

I've tried some 6-inch DWV reducers, but they seem to be sized for the 6-inch DVW pipe, which must be smaller in OD than standard 6-inch pressure rated PVC pipe, as the 6x4 DVW reducer coupling that I had picked up wouldn't fit over the end of a 6-inch PVC (pressure) pipe, nor would it fit in a 6-inch pressure PVC coupling. I guess they just don't want you to mix pressure and DVW pipe. So I had to go with the $11 6x4 flush reducer bushing as that was all I could find available locally.

I'm not familiar with the OTP 3000 pump. What kind of impeller does it come with? Did you have to mod it?

I'd really like to see the photos of your venturi build. I've looked at a number of JCTewks venturis, and I can't remember seeing any of them that used mesh. So for the venturi you're using a barbed fitting, mesh, and no reduction in pipe diameter? An an unmodded impeller?

If you've got venturi photos and/or a thread link, that'd really be helpful. TIA.

ClayWagner · #12 12/18/2007, 02:46 AM

I think I misled you. I have 2 layers of mesh on the needlewheel impeller...not on the venturi. The venturi is simply made out of a 1" female/slip coupling and a 1x3/4" reducer. The reducer was dremeled out so that the 3/4" pipe could go to where I needed it. The intake is placed around the space of the 3/4" pipe where there is somewhat a negative pressure, thus pulling in air. It's called Bernouli's Principle I believe. Pics will be up soon as they speak a thousand words

.

ClayWagner · #13 12/18/2007, 02:54 AM

Call before you go to Ace. I'm not sure if they call them something else, but for some particular reason I can't seem to locate them on their website. Maybe I just got lucky with my local store.

pescadero · #14 12/18/2007, 02:55 AM

ah, I misunderstood then. I am familiar with JCT's "blow-by" style venturis, where there is a circumferential air injection manifold that surrounds the water as it flows through the narrow section. is yours something like this? (photo courtesy of Hahnmeister)

djfrankie · #15 12/18/2007, 04:10 AM

Pretty cool!

I like your attitude too by the way.

Bottom line is that it works.

I've got a tip: Spray paint the body black with Krylon and give it that stealth look :-)

djfrankie

ClayWagner · #16 12/18/2007, 11:52 AM

I thought about the stealth look

. Yes pes...that's it. My design is different, but same concept.

pescadero · #17 12/18/2007, 12:38 PM

thanks for the follow-up. if you have a chance to post any additional info about your venturi design, i'm sure we'd all love to see it!

RandyStacyE · #18 12/18/2007, 07:27 PM

ClayWagner,

Looks like that OTP 3000 is just rockin that skimmer.

If that's that how much crud is collecting in the neck on a bucket of water then I can't wait to see how it does on your system.

By the way ... you can't complain about the weather if you live in Florida ... palm trees and all that

I just had to pay $30.00 to get my drive way plowed and that's cheap around here

ClayWagner · #19 12/19/2007, 10:45 AM

Ouch! Yeah...guess I shouldn't complain. Hopefully it will succeed on my system, if I can find the correct way to plumb it. I'm worried about back pressure...any ideas? I have a sump design that has a fuge and skimmer section fed by a t from the overflow and individual ball valves to control each. Now, I realize that input hose to the skimmer must travel down...but I don't have much room under my tank. Should I just raise all the plumbing to compensate this? Pics would probably do a better job explaining my plumbing

.

ClayWagner · #20 12/19/2007, 02:04 PM

Can you run a pump in vinegar? Or is it better to just soak it? I'm in the process of cleaning my skimmer before I connect it to my system.

djfrankie · #21 12/19/2007, 05:34 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by ClayWagner
Can you run a pump in vinegar?

That's how I clean my Tunze streams every six months for the past 3 years and no problems whatsoever. I let them run overnight and they come out squeaky clean.

Some people like muriatic acid because it is cheaper and it works faster.

If using muriatic acid mix 1:10 parts of water. Very important to use and mix it properly. WATCH YOUR EYES AND CLOTHING!
and always add muriatic acid to water not the other way around.

HTH,
djfrankie

pescadero · #22 12/19/2007, 11:27 PM

good advice. in my days as a chemist we always used a mnemonic: AAA. it stands for "always add acid" to water, not the other way around. by adding acid to water it is rapidly diluted, so that the splashes aren't so dangerous.

GuySmilie · #23 12/20/2007, 01:41 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by ClayWagner
.....the collection cup was from Linens and Things (used to have a bunch of medal on it so you can snap it closed...was removed. Got it from an idea of someone in a DIY forum) which was PERFECT for this application.

You're welcome. Glad it worked out for you.

I never did hear back from you on that 4" union.
Did you get that from USCORP for $28?

Also, that doesn't look like a QO3000. Weren't you talking about using one?

ClayWagner · #24 12/20/2007, 02:34 AM

You're the guy! Thanks a bunch for the idea. That acrylic container is sturdy and the top seals very neatly. I got the union from a place locally called Barnes Industrial, it's the same company my friend's father buys mass quantities for his own company. I was going to choose the QO3000, but it's just too loud for the location of my skimmer (IME their extremely quiet in water but loud externally). I really like the OTP3000. It's got a huge chamber for destroying bubbles and with an inlarged intake through some variation of venturi, little mesh, and increasing the volute a little (if you'd like) you can get 40 scfm everytime. Plus, it's only 55 bucks. The pump itself is not loud, but the turbulence of air inside the pump is. If you can, find some place local so you don't have to have the union shipped. It's quite heavy and would tack on an extra 5 or 10 to your bill.

GuySmilie · #25 12/20/2007, 03:26 AM

Sounds good. Hope it works out well for you.
I've already abandoned the union idea. I found a rubber 6x4 DWV transition the other day at Lowes which fits my 6" DWV pipe perfect. Got the rest of my UniSeals and a new venturi delivered today, so I'm just about ready to roll. Still gotta find a piece of 4" tubing, the collection cup, and a hunk of PVC for a base.
Take care!