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#26
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Quote:
Seriously, look at the red house. It's sweet. |
#27
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Kung,
On the 210 I used 2x6's and joist hangers along with a ledger stip, it also has 3/4 ply top in case I ever go larger. The stand was built with the intention to be able to accomodate a 72X32X28 tank and hold a 180 for a sump just a little fore thought that's all
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Romeo |
#28
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Drilling a tank?
anyone locally good at drilling tanks?_ Since I have been having trouble getting glass panes reasonable I thinking of drilling my 29 and adding bulkheads to overflow it into a 20 seperating the fuge, skimmer and return sections that way._ What do you think?
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#29
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When you were pricing glass, were you looking only for precut and polished glass?
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#30
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yes precut and polished for two reasons. one I don't want the hassle of having to cut it myself and my 9 y/o son is helping me with this project and I don't want the chance of him getting cut.
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#31
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Might want to make sure that 29 is not tempered, mine was and you know what happened there.
The bad thing is I was almost thru
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Romeo |
#32
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hmm good point I saw a post on here once that told how to determine if it is tempered or not but don't remember how to do it????
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#33
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Looking at the glass through polarized lenses is supposed to be one way.
How much would it cost to get a sheet of glass and cut it down yourself? That is what I was thinking about doing. |
#34
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The cost would really depend on what you were doing. To build sumps and such it is not really worth the time and material to make one vs buying something allready built.
I built my custom refugium but that was because a 20L was just an 1 1/2" too wide for where it needed to go. As for baffles and such that's what I've always used, not a big fan of using acrylic but heh everyones got there opinion. The silicone bond to glass is way superior than bonding to acrylic. Oh well there I go again, sorry
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Romeo |
#35
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Carb
If your good at cutting glass, you could do it but me no way been there done that, it sure isn't as easy as it looks. Sanding the edges is another thing
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Romeo |
#36
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Quote:
Do you recommend a place to get prebuilt sumps? or custom built ones? |
#37
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Sorry I should have rephrased that previous post to mean if you start from just ordinary glass or even acrylic.
My first sump was 3/8 acrylic and was definitely a learning experience. I couldn't have done it without the help of Acrosteve. I wouldn't recommend acrylic just for the simple fact that it scrathes and really takes alot to keep it looking good. Glass for me from now on.
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Romeo |
#38
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__________________
CVRC President |
#39
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Nice but too expensive for me
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Romeo |
#40
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just some progress pics. have decided to use the 3/4" birch sheathing and will trim the top kind of like A_thrice did his._ feel free to critique and provide suggestions. keep in mind that I am not and do not claim to be a woodsmith (is that a word?) so be easy on the craftsmanship.[IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG]BTW that is not the birch in the pic that is standard 1/2 PW that will be sealed and painted white.
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#41
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I believe the term is "carpenter." And the stand looks very sturdy, by the way.
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Dogs - Man's best friend; entropy's greatest catalyst. |
#42
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Looks good to me. Why did you decide on 3/4" sheeting? I'm thinking 1/4" or 1/2" for mine since the 2x4's are providing all of the structural support.
Also, have you counted plugs yet? I haven't, but I know they add up in a hurry. PS. is that a 29G sump? |
#43
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JC, yea I know carpenter was just trying to think of a word that would take carpenter to another level.
Carb, after following A-Thrices build my wife and I like the way he trimmed out around the tank so in order to keep the proportions looking right I think 3/4 will be best. as for the number of plugs I looked at my current tank which is just using two plug strips and figured if I add couple of more on top of that I should be fine. right now I have a couple of open recepts on my strips. and yes that is the 29G sump that I have been trying to glass to divide it. |
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