bubble tip split

[Mike16]

Any body have this happen....


I think mine is but I'm not for sure he's has been acting weird for a while now.

Not melting weird though

And his mouth moved to one side of his "body"

[dots]

Yes, it can be a blessed event or the first in a downward spiral.

They will split in bountiful times when they are fed and happy and feel that there is enough to propogate.

Or they with split as a survival instinct to stress.

The key is light and energy, during this time they will not eat and must live off of the stored energy within them and the photosynthetic light. Because of this tramatic event, it takes a lot of energy to generate the tissue and complete the healing process.

If they are already starved, they could literaly "eat" themselves and shrink to a much smaller size, only to wither away.

My Sebae has always not been symetrical from when it split before I got it, I imagine eventually it will even out over time.

Is the anenome hiding and roaming constantly? How long have you had it, how big is it, and what kind of lighting do you have?

I always fed mine silversides at first, but realized they always puked it back out nearly whole. I switched to the PE Mysids and have had excellent results. In fact, the Sebae was bleached when I got him and nursed it back with these. Had you been feeding yours a lot recently and do a large water change?

[Mike16]

its in a 24 nano.
I Got it in august and it hasent moved since


Fed it silver sides always ate them

Power compacts

Been shrink for a week or two now

And his moiutu I'd now gaping open

It opens up to let the clown I. So ya any ideas about what's going on and your right about him eating

[Nu2SW]

Originally posted by Mike16
its in a 24 nano.
I Got it in august and it hasent moved since


Fed it silver sides always ate them

Power compacts

Been shrink for a week or two now

And his moiutu I'd now gaping open

It opens up to let the clown I. So ya any ideas about what's going on and your right about him eating

What wattage is the power compacts...... that can be the key point.

I had a Green bubble tip that turned a redish brown because of low light. They will do that.

Mine split after 5 months, with yours being so new, it may be a stress sign. Hard to say.

Make sure the pieces of silver sides are cut up and not bigger than its mouth so, that it doesnt have to stress over too large of food.


Best thing is to get a MH light when ya can. It took me a while to get one, but now I can't go back to anything less

[dots]

If you aren't keen on trying the PE Mysids, I used to slice the silverside up to help break it up. Though, I am a big fan of the Mysids I must say.

Though there are always exceptions, I don't believe the PCs give it enough PAR to survive long term. I have a Viper 150W MH over my 24g, in which mine is. I find it a great setup for keeping anenome.

That is a good observation on the color Edwin......your anenome "browned" out to compenate for the lack of energy so it increased its zoanathelle denisty. Because anenome are so hard to diagnose, any tell tale like that I think is key to keeping them alive. Thanks for the tip.

[Mike16]

Believe me I know what to feed.....

And not trying to be rude but there called mysis shrimp not mysid


For a big anemone silver sides have more protein so that's why I feed him that


Can't afford metal halides I'm 16 and work at your reef

[wpnorton]

"And not trying to be rude but there called mysis shrimp not mysid"

Did you ever notice that the S is located right next t the D on the keyboard. I'm thinking the Mysid was a typo error and did not warrant a "Your a dumb A$$" reply.

[Mike16]

umm no thinking he said mysiD over and over

And if you want to write in a bullitan and bash someone read the WHOLE post first

So I didn't deserve "your dumbA$$ reply"

Thank you bee much

[JJ4417]

...deleted...

[MandM]

Originally posted by Mike16
Believe me I know what to feed.....

And not trying to be rude but there called mysis shrimp not mysid


For a big anemone silver sides have more protein so that's why I feed him that


Can't afford metal halides I'm 16 and work at your reef

Mike,
You may say you are not trying to be rude, but that was quite rude and incorrect as well.

Please consider that others may actually know more than you even though you do work at Your Reef.


Americamysis bahia (Mysidopsis bahia)
Scientific name: Americamysis bahia
Common name: Opossum shrimp, Mysid shrimp, Mysids


You are asking for input but get huffy when input or advice is given. People are being patient with you because, as you have told us often, you are only 16. You are still old enough to be respectul when people offer you opinions that conflict with your vast knowledge.

[Mike16]

I am always respectful to people..... As long as they are to me

So get off my case so it didn't deserve the comment of "my dumbA$$ reply"

And DONT use my age against me!!!

[MandM]

I agree the comment to you was not appropirate.

Neither was your reply to Dots.

[Mike16]

your taking what I said the wrong way

[dots]

Whoo tough crowd, who would have thought: Reefing and Spelling/Grammar in one place.......?

Technically he is right, as well as wrong. Actually, I want to thank you for reminding me, I have been wanting to look this up because when I see and hear "PE" I think Polyp Extension, which I know we don't have a bag full of Polyped Extended Crustaceans.

Yeah Latin isn't my strong suit, (you should hear me pronounce some of these things sometime), and you missed the point of even suggesting them.......but we digress.

Species: relicta
Genus: Mysis
Family: Mysidae (aka Mysid)

Now for our semantics:

Yes, you are correct it is Mysis in this instance where "PE" is in front of the offending word as it is a proper name and a trade name. Unfortunately, you did the exact same thing when trying to correct me and screwed up the name as well. The MYSIS in the catchy little trade name is an acronym for: Mountain-lakes Inland Yield Superior Inland Shrimp, or M.Y.S.I.S for short and should be capitalized when referring to this product name as in PE MYSIS, which you failed to do when "correcting" me.

Potatoe Potato/Tomatoe Tomato


We can hold each other over the fire and split hairs another time. Keep your anenome alive and we will talk grammer another day.

[Marko9]

I love the MARS people and how nice and caring we are for each other

[dots]

Yeah, I'm feelin' the love in the air too lately.........who needs a hug?

[jeffmperez]

Originally posted by Nu2SW
What wattage is the power compacts...... that can be the key point.

I had a Green bubble tip that turned a redish brown because of low light. They will do that.

Mine split after 5 months, with yours being so new, it may be a stress sign. Hard to say.

Make sure the pieces of silver sides are cut up and not bigger than its mouth so, that it doesnt have to stress over too large of food.


Best thing is to get a MH light when ya can. It took me a while to get one, but now I can't go back to anything less

I had a question regarding the "Browning" that you noticed on your Green BTA?

Mine did that as well after about 2 months in my tank. My assumption was that the BTA was turing that reddish brown due to the fact that he was "bleached" and this is more of his natural color. He was almost flourescent green and clear when I first bought him. I guess I was wrong?

I have 2 150W MH on my 70 gal reef tank and after he has settled in his spot he has not moved since I purchased him. Also he split last week as well w/ both doing well and eating. I feed cut up silver sides as well.

Did your BTA regain his green coloring after feeding Misis or Misid?

[Fragmented]

Just to spice things up a little more, I'll jump in and add my experiences.

It took me quite a while to research BTA care. I've had mine for 2 years, and have had some ups and downs. I have finally learned to keep mine alive and healthy. I figure that like people, and our individual tanks, each BTA is different. It takes some experimentation to find what works for your BTA and your tank environment.

What made the difference for my BTA was to think about the natural diet. Living on the substrate, BTAs get what filters down to them. These foods are usually small particles and plankton. Additionally, the cells of the gastrodermis ingest small fragments of the prey and much of the digestion occurs in those cells.

When I started feeding my BTA small bits of food, it became much healthier.

Just some food for thought.

[GreshamH]

Originally posted by dots
Mountain-lakes Inland Yield Superior Inland Shrimp, or M.Y.S.I.S for short and should be capitalized when referring to this product name as in PE MYSIS

Heck, I'm in the biz and I didn't know that (guess I never looked at the packaging all that close). I always "assumed" they called it mysis since they are a freshwater species .

FWIW silversides are far to large to be a suitabel feed in this case. They don't catch many fish on the reef, but tons of small particulates and zooplankton with zooplankton being the majority of their "food" intake (discounting zoox).

[dots]

I thought it was a creative play on words myself.

[Mike16]

what ever I'm done

You guys are no help

[Marko9]

Originally posted by Mike16
what ever I'm done

You guys are no help

I don't understand what you mean. I learned a lot from this thread. I also had the same experieces as you and others.

BTA's don't look good before they split or die. Sometimes they even move to the back of the tank.

I have also learned and experieced that they are much more healty when fed small pieces of food rather than when I was feeding silversides because it is more like their true environment.

HTH

[dots]

I can see your getting frustrated, so what exactly is your question? I have killed errr.....kept many anenome and kinda know what I am doing now. Well, more or less. Sorta? Yep, I'm sure I think I can help ya out on this topic. Not a problem....(I hope.)

[dots]

Here is the deal, anemone get about 90% give or take of their energy from light. Most of the time this is the case:

Anemone have a VERY slow metabolism, by the time you realize what is going on, its already in decline.

Anemone have horrible shipping records and captivity records, I believe I read once like 25% fail to make it to market. Of those that do, a "success" is considered a year to five. Normally these creatures live for hundreds of years in the wild. The others that survive to the LFS are often sickly and in decline. Most are unaware that the first couple of weeks will make it or break it because of this. When getting one home, you need strong, intense lighting to provide the intensity to produce that 80% of its energy. If you are on the ragged edge and only supply a portion of this light you can offset the deficit by feeding more and more frequently. This works all fine and dandy until it splits and you can't supplement that deficit any more. To make matters worse, it needs even more energy now to heal the split. It gets smaller and smaller and then dies.

Happy anemone do not: Roam, (Though BTAs do more frequently, which is why I suggest selecting the Sebae as they do not), detach, gape, turn inside out, etc.

Constantly moving anemone do not like the water quality, light, flow. Roaming takes energy, which will use precious little reserves.

Anemone do not have eyes, they don't know where the light is and they need to be placed in a rock structure that lends to their proper orientation. BTA's tend to like being wedged in a crevice.

BTA's loose their bubbles over time and get long and skinny tentacles in captivity.

Clown fish trying to host in a sick or stress anemone only make things worse and literally can rub them to death. Often after a split the clown is so large its WAY too big and a mis match further complicating the situation.

An anemone should feed with intensity and react to food when placed on the oral disc. If it does not, it does not know it is being fed and needs to be more often.


In the end, it boils down to light. Yes, I have heard of the guys that kept them under Bic lighters and they split every week, but that is not the average result.

Without strong light, they all die in the end. Unfortunately because of the slow metabolism thing, most aquarist are not aware that it is slowly starving and attribute the death all the while to something else.

How do I know this, because I was that guy. After I got MHs it magically got easier.

Throw a JBJ Viper 150 on it and you will have a fighting chance, but I'm afraid that is where you are coming up short.

As always......IMO, not set in stone, different strokes for different folks....blah, blah, blah....

[Marko9]

I am not sold Doug that the lighting is that big a deal with BTA as I kept two in my 29 under PC's before it bacame my qt. I gave one to Doah and the other to AJPACINO23, so I know it can be done.

Mine did move around before they split.