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  #376  
Old 11/18/2007, 07:51 PM
Lunchbucket Lunchbucket is offline
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Ok, been looking at aquatic eco, MD, savko. The sched 80's that I found (1.25" for a 2 3/8" hole) are either all T x T or S x T where the slip is on the inside (flange side) adn the backside is thread no matter what. Anyone bought slip on the back side someplace?

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  #377  
Old 11/18/2007, 11:33 PM
jnarowe jnarowe is offline
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As I wrote before, get on the phone with these suppliers and tell them exactly what you want. It may mean a little extra lead time, but usually theyu can source what you want.
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  #378  
Old 11/20/2007, 12:10 AM
Lunchbucket Lunchbucket is offline
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Ok will do.

Thanks
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  #379  
Old 11/20/2007, 12:11 AM
melev melev is offline
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I think the idea of using UniSeals to be a much better option between the sumps Eric. They'll take up no space at all, and don't leak. It doesn't get easier than that.
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  #380  
Old 11/20/2007, 12:25 AM
Lunchbucket Lunchbucket is offline
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I'm not sure if I ever trust uniseals. Seem to easy to leak

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  #381  
Old 11/20/2007, 12:28 AM
melev melev is offline
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They'll work great. Once PVC is pushed through them, they are water tight.
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  #382  
Old 11/20/2007, 12:35 AM
Lunchbucket Lunchbucket is offline
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I don't think any uniseals take a 2 3/8" hole so I'd have to redrill them

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  #383  
Old 11/20/2007, 12:38 AM
melev melev is offline
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That I don't know.
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  #384  
Old 11/20/2007, 12:53 AM
Lunchbucket Lunchbucket is offline
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I've looked just a little tonight and don't see much for hole sizes. But from what i do so I'd have to drill to 2.5 or 3"

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  #385  
Old 11/20/2007, 12:57 AM
adams0816 adams0816 is offline
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most lfs's if you call them will have the specs for uniseals for hole drill sizes.
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  #386  
Old 11/20/2007, 01:08 AM
adams0816 adams0816 is offline
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you are correct, you will have to increase your hole to 2.5" they dont make a 2 3/8".
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  #387  
Old 11/20/2007, 01:28 AM
jnarowe jnarowe is offline
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I haven't had as good luck with the Uniseals, but there is more than one kind, so maybe I got the "wrong" ones. I wouldn't hesitate to use them "in-sump" but extrenally I don't think so.
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  #388  
Old 11/20/2007, 01:53 PM
ReefWaters ReefWaters is offline
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I did a quick search on Uniseals and didn't see where many people had had problems with them. The few people who did, admitted that they thought it was because they had cut the hole incorrectly.

That said, I am probably going to use them to connect my two sumps. However, I will not be using them in places where standard bulkheads are normally used: drain lines, pump connections, etc. I

Here's why I say that. I would be scared to put torque or weight on the Uniseal like when you have lots of PVC pipe hanging from the Uniseal/Bulkhead and running to another location. However, in the application like mine and yours, going straight from one sump to another, I feel confident. Its only a few inches and there is no weight or torque being placed on the seals. And in my case, more than yours, there is almost no water pressure because my holes will be as high in the sumps as I can get them.

Any thoughts on this? Does anyone agree or disagree with what Im trying to explain?
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  #389  
Old 11/20/2007, 03:31 PM
melev melev is offline
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I would agree with your thoughts, ReefWaters.
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  #390  
Old 11/20/2007, 06:27 PM
jnarowe jnarowe is offline
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I agree. In that situation without torque, you should be in good shape. I used one for a hartford loop, and I think that had enough weight to make it leak a little.
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  #391  
Old 11/20/2007, 09:29 PM
Lunchbucket Lunchbucket is offline
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Still not a fan of the uniseals. They just seem cheap and flimsy. I think I'll do sched 40's just to make sure they work well. They are not worth the extra room saved or the few dollars saved.

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  #392  
Old 11/21/2007, 12:25 AM
ReefWaters ReefWaters is offline
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I'll let you know how it turns out.
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  #393  
Old 11/21/2007, 06:58 PM
Lunchbucket Lunchbucket is offline
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Great news!! I talked to the city and they told me what kind of wire runs from my meter (which is on a post in the "alley" behind my house. Only 2-3 blocks are like this and the city wasn't sure why they did this back then. Most electrical meters are mounted on the house. Well talked to my bosses brother (whom owns an elctric, heating, and cooling company) and he said the wire underground was not big enough to support a 150amp breaker. But he told me that it would be about impossible for me to use of too much electricity to throw the main breaker on my 100amp panel. So he told me to do a 60amp sub panel. Then I can use two for my fish room and use the other two to replace the two slots taken up by the 60amp breaker. So I can do a sub panel and get enough power for my tank cheap

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  #394  
Old 11/23/2007, 10:12 PM
Lunchbucket Lunchbucket is offline
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I have 20 slots in my 100amp breaker but I saw in an ad today that they sell 30slot 100amp breakers. Wonder if that would be an easier option rather than adding a sub panel?

Anyone added a sub panel before?

Lunchbucket
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  #395  
Old 11/23/2007, 10:31 PM
ReefWaters ReefWaters is offline
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I think adding a sub will be a lot easier than switching out your main panel.

Also, how far away is the fish room from the main panel? If you ad a sub panel, you can put it closer to the fish room and save money and effort because the fish circuits wont have to be run as far as they would if you ran them from the main panel.
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  #396  
Old 11/23/2007, 10:33 PM
jnarowe jnarowe is offline
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I have. More slots is less amps per slot right? I am not sure I see the advantage there. I feel that running a sub panel is the right thing to do. I ran 100 amps to mine and that isolates my tank equipment in one box so it is easier to trouble-shoot should the need arise. I like having it right in the tank room as well. It's convenient.
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  #397  
Old 11/23/2007, 10:42 PM
jnarowe jnarowe is offline
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jinx!
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  #398  
Old 11/24/2007, 11:43 AM
Lunchbucket Lunchbucket is offline
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ReefWaters and jnarowe - I have not finalized where the tank room will go. The closet idea will work but it seems there are probably better options. Once I move my furnace I'm hoping that I will have a better idea of the downstairs layout. I think I might actually move it next to the panel and close in a room that was close to were the current furnace is. Close to power and close to a drain. I will try to get the panel in the room to make it easier

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  #399  
Old 11/25/2007, 03:51 PM
Lunchbucket Lunchbucket is offline
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Well I put in some emails to Custom Aquatic and aquatic Eco for some 1.5" bulkheads. Custom Aquatic has the the ones I want but they are back ordered. So I emailed them to see how long they would be back ordered. Then I found these @ Aquatic Eco-Systems so I emailed them to see if they will fit a 2 3/8" hole and how long they were. Didn't want the picture to show shorties and they actually aren't.

I need to do something on the tank and pluming is my only option right now. Getting pretty antsy and I've been meaning to call Savko and some other places and get some bulkheads here but I've been gone for work putting up a new gym.

Hope I get some answers from my emails soon. Then I can get going making some progress even if I don't have the tank room started or know even where it is going

Lunchbucket
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  #400  
Old 11/25/2007, 04:49 PM
melev melev is offline
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Could you be any more indecisive? Seriously, get Phil over there already as he'll definitely help you figure out the perfect layout both in location and how to orient the room around it.
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